A toyhauler cargo conversion

[pvangel]

Hank, wants i gets going I don't stop....

No listing on the EU 1000? I am bonding my trailer, pics tomorrow.... I hope

[pvangel]

How did you figure the radius for the corners ?????
Is there a template that comes with the windows???

No template, I used the trim ring. This window was a pia to install, I should have gotten a litle smaller one so I didn't have to cut 2 of the vertical supports.

[jmsokol]

Hank, wants i gets going I don't stop....

No listing on the EU 1000? I am bonding my trailer, pics tomorrow.... I hope

According to Honda's generator service department, the EU1000 is an isolated G-N generator. So you need to make a special G-N bonding plug (kludge) for use ONLY when your RV is powered by your generator. This G-N bond CANNOT be wired in permanently into your plug as part of your shore power cord from the trailer. Remember, the interior wiring of your RV must maintain isolation between its Neutral and Ground wires, and the incoming Safety-Ground wire (the green one) MUST be bonded to the frame and body of your trailer.

This idea is that when you plug into a normal 120-volt outlet at a campsite or your home, your Ground and Neutral buss are bonded together ONLY back at the electrical service panel's grounding point. So if you plug into a G-N Bonded generator (great chart, by the way) the generator creates this G-N bond, while your trailer chassis creates its own "ground plane". However, if you plug into an isolated G-N generator (EU1000, 2000, etc...) then you need to supply the G-N bond yourself. If you don't have a transfer switch (which does the G-N bond for you in big RV's) then you should build and use the G-N bonding adapter per my picture. Or an RV dealer can build you one for $100 if you like.

Again, without a G-N bond when running from an isolated generator, some of your electronics may act wacky, and certainly a 3-light outlet tester will go nuts and indicate a lost ground if you plug it into your trailer to check your wiring.

Perhaps the forum moderator would like to create a sticky in the electrical section about trailer grounding and bonding. It's a very important topic.

[pvangel]

I have decided to use flashlights and a hand pump, much simpler

There is an electrical section that you should post all this in viewforum.php?f=30

[pvangel]

Boy this is a lot of work! Woke up at 5:30 am itching to get started but didn't want to wake everyone in the neighbor hood so had coffee and some internet but was in the trailer at 8. I have a little electric heater I turned on in there and it was warm in no time at all even with some of the insulation not installed yet.

I straightened out all the wiring, taped it into bundles and secured wherever I could with Gorilla tape to the frame/skin and then was able to finally get all the insulation in and done. I foamed around the wires wherever I could.



I foamed around the window as well to fill any voids.



And then started on the ceiling,



Here's what I learned....Don't use anything with lines on it because you will see every dip and bump in the ceiling and not one ceiling "beam" lines up with another one and it is so out of square that you will see it much more. I am probably being overly critical but it was not a great material choice, it will probably look ok once the vent trim rings go on and the lights are mounted, cabinets. we'll see....

[pvangel]

Wheel chocks showed up today! I have been waiting to put the floor down until these showed up so I can mount the hardware first.



I want the washer to be flush with the flooring, this shot is with 3 of the pieces, only comes with 2 so I have to make up some spacers.

[roadinspector]

I am always way over critical of my work too. Pics look good!

Earnest

[pvangel]

Thanks Earnest!

Ceiling is almost done, what a pain it is to put up!



This is the material that I got at Lowes,



I know it is intended to be cut into 30" lengths and installed vertically in a breakfast nook in Buffy's kitchen but the material is anything but "Evertrue". It's warped and not true to size between pieces, add in a outta true/square/warped trailer and it's a challenge at best. I was going to use FRP panels but figured that this would be easier, I guessed wrong but in the long run it should look better.

[capt4903]

ceiling is looking good in the photo!

[pvangel]

Looks safe right?

Just testing lights....



Ceiling is up!



Trim rings on vents and ......LIGHTS!

[BC Dave]

Ha!

Great build;

similar BUT different from what I did and your moving alsong fast!
(but you built one already; so second time faster and better; pressures on dude ...lol)

Getting ready in the off season ...

Cheers BC Dave

[pvangel]

I am trying to get done by the end of February or early March and the weather has been pretty good, next weeks weather is calling for single digits at night and teen during the day so don't think I'll get much done then.

So....I cheated. Home Depot cabinets are on sale 20% off, got 2 upper 30"x 18"x 12" cabinets for over the counter top and they fit perfect above the porthole windows.




And a 60" base cabinet, it is 24" deep and If I was to build it I would have made the base cabinet 18" deep to save floor space but for the price I couldn't pass it up.

[pvangel]

I have a plan to make them more "race trailer cool" and still be cheaper by far then the aluminum cabinets I was going to get.

[roadinspector]

That just means more to go towards something else in the CT!

[pvangel]

That just means more to go towards something else in the CT!

I'm spending to much already.... Actually not if you compare to a "real" toyhauler but still....And my labor is free!

Well it was a beautiful day in NY, 50 deg but the polar express is arriving tonight.

Got my "bond" or ground in laymans terms, double lock washers and double nuts, second is a nylon locknut,



All the plywood back up as well,





Also mounted my 110 outlets on the outside but no pics.