FlyBye's 7x16 Build

[hankaye]

FlyBye, Howdy;

Excellent workmanship with the floor. Takin'
your time shows with the cut-out for the door.
, !

hank

[McDave]

That a boy! Really looks good. Lots of prep work, but the end product speaks for itself.
Nice work.

McDave

[FlyBye]

The inside of your trailer is beautiful ... nice work!

Lookin' good!

Excellent workmanship with the floor. Takin'
your time shows with the cut-out for the door.

That a boy! Really looks good. Lots of prep work, but the end product speaks for itself.
Nice work.

To Keep from being struck by lighting... I need to clear up who did the nice detail work. My lovely wife! I just did the patch and prep work, she did all the laminate peel and stick panel work. I showed her ya'lls comments and we laughed together. I told her I would clarify things so that lighting wouldn't claim me! :-) All the painting, staining, color choices and laying the floor panels were her contribution to the project.... Now that that's out of the way, I feel like a load has been lifted!

I've got the base cabinets moved in along with the refrigerator, but will have to wait to attach the cabinets until the countertop comes in. It was ordered yesterday and I'm not sure how long it will take to get it in. The estimate from Lowe's was one to two weeks and then I will have to cut the hole for the sink. We have had the sink ready and waiting since last year even though we will probably not install the water lines until next Spring/Summer. I want to leave plenty of time to camp in the Fall/Winter.

Below is what the Cabinets look like stained. Some of the wood took to the stain more than others, but it all treated the same way. The sides will not be stained since there will be a short wall on both sides. Two and one half foot wall on the far side and about a three foot wall on the other side that will join up with the shower/rest room eventually.

[McDave]

Nice work Mrs. FlyBye. Your attention to detail has produced an outstanding end product. You both should be proud of your results. Sir, you are a lucky man to have such a partner in this endeavour. You make a good team.

McDave

[hankaye]

Ms. Flyby, Howdy;

Everything McD said !!! , !!

hank

[FlyBye]

I'm planning on having both the cold and hot water enter under and through the floor by using two of these water inlets. My question is what would be the best way (leak proof, maintenance free, dummy proof) to install it after it is drilled and installed through the floor. Should I first attach a cooper pipe and then pex pipe or just go ahead attach the pex to the 2 3/4" brass nub that will stick through the floor. Or is there a better/easier/safer way that I'm overlooking?

[hankaye]

FlyBye, Howdy;

May I ask as to the why you want to run both the hot & cold through the floor instead
of a vertical surface and do these connections have check-valves in them which could be
beneficial or not depending on your intent.

hank

[FlyBye]

May I ask as to the why you want to run both the hot & cold through the floor instead
of a vertical surface and do these connections have check-valves in them which could be
beneficial or not depending on your intent.
hank

I originally wanted and planned to have the water inlets on the side. That still would be my preference since it would just be easier to hook up your water hose. But unfortunately I forgot to put in my bracing behind the wall for the needed support. I did it correct for the 30 amp plug in, but just got carried away and forgot to do it for the water lines and went ahead and reinstalled the walls. I saw where a few others had gone the floor route and I thought it would work for my situation.

By "check-valve" do you mean the valve thingies that only allow water to flow one way and not backwards? I would think that the water inlet I posted probably wouldn't have it, but I don't know for sure. I'm glad you mentioned that because I would have never thought of it. I guess a "check-valve" could be added into the line. I saw this one at Home Depot. All this plumbing and carpentry stuff is new to me, so please don't be timid about educating me. I would rather learn before making a mistake than after the fact.

[hankaye]

FlyBye, Howdy;

Some of the through wall fittings for RVs have one-way check valves that allow the liquid to flow into
then trap it inside until you pass it through a faucet then a drain to wherever .... so, be sure of what
you order.

One thing to consider is if you want to "trap" water in the lines. Depending on where you are located
it might be advisable to get some fittings that allow you to evacuate the lines so they don't freeze and
burst. Mounted in an external wall you can employ below floor drains (low point), to drain the system
when not in use. How much trouble would it be to remove the wall section then replace it after beefing
it up for the plumbing?

hank

[flboy]

Where is the wall where you were going to install on the side? Can you get a rotozip or something to just cutaway the inside wall just where where you need it and then reinforce the outer wall and install the pipes the way you wanted to. There are many ways to fix the interior wall where you cut in and, in any case, wouldn't the pipes be coming through anyhow?

[FlyBye]

My concern was how or with what do I connect the brass stub with when it enters the trailer, regardless of being horizontal through the wall or vertical through the floor. I didn't know if there was a preferred way. I will not have a fill tank to hold water inside the trailer, just water on demand when hooked up with a hose when offered at a camp site. (brass fitting, pex, flexible hose...)

[hankaye]

FlyBye, Howdy;

, Ok,
Take one of your through the floor/wall fittings with you to HD or Lowly, and have a look around the plumbing dept.
You'll see several different types of fittings and most will have the 3/4" NPT (Pipe thread, it's tapered for a snugger fit),
Talk with the "expert" there actually is one for each dept. so ask to speak with that person instead of the student or
Olympian in training, unless that actually is the expert. Explain to them what it is you are wanting to accomplish and
keep asking questions. Be sure to thank them after you've emptied their brain.

hank

[flboy]

My concern was how or with what do I connect the brass stub with when it enters the trailer, regardless of being horizontal through the wall or vertical through the floor. I didn't know if there was a preferred way. I will not have a fill tank to hold water inside the trailer, just water on demand when hooked up with a hose when offered at a camp site. (brass fitting, pex, flexible hose...)

I connected Pex directly to my fitting that came through the wall. I am no plumber, so I do not know if that is a "no no", but it seems to work well. I figure if you are coming in brass, you have to connect the Pex at some point and it seemed to me to be the easiest place. The only thing I'd do after that if you are running directly off campground hookup pressure is 1) Make sure to have a pressure regulator inline with your hookup hose at the connection point to the campground hookup. That will protect your hose (ask me how I learned that) and trailer. 2) put a shutoff valve in the main line coming in just in case you spring a leak inside. You can quickly shut it down without having to run out of the CTC unless of course the leak is between the inlet and the shutoff valve.

See pic below. Up on the top left, you can see where my water is coming in. The small connection on left is the "City Water" hookup like you are talking about, and the other larger blue hose is the gravity feed for my water tanks.

The check valve is built into the fixture I used. Not sure what the fitting looks like on your connection , but if it is not directly Pex crimp compatible, you will need a transition piece of some sort. You should be able to take the inlet you have to the hardware store and match up a fitting to convert. The inlet I used was directly compatible and appears to have been designed for the Pex to crimp directly on. I am sure it was luck on my part, as I don't remember shopping for it with that in mind.

[FlyBye]

Don, Thanks for the photo. I'll go ahead and do the same when the moment of truth comes.

I need to get a weight distribution and sway control set up pretty soon. I've looked at some of Camping Worlds setups and want to know what the verdict might be on this rascal here: https://www.campingworld.com/fastway-e2-round-bar-weight-distribution-hitches-with-sway-control-8000-lb-trailer-weight-800-lb-tongue-weight
I know that several on the forum have gotten ones at Harbor Freight, but I'm not sure if they are both Weight Distribution and Sway Control. I would like to have both features on the one unit. Any thoughts or recommendations. They look fairly easy to install... even for a cave man!

[flboy]

That looks like a good deal, but I do not see the ball's for antisway bar connections. Am I missing that? You can clearly see the ones on the setup I am using.


I am using the Haulmaster brand WD hitch with 2 Anti sway bars. Works great at balancing and sway. Highly recommended.

I also just ordered some air bags to adjust for towing. No sag with the WD hitch, but I do get some bounce when the roads dip.The bags should help the springs when I am fully loaded and dampen the bounce.

This is what mine looks like connected.



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