HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[flboy]

Don how much for the extra docking station? I would like another one to put in the house for when I store the TV.

Can I get that # and email please.

$8.99. I am having them send me 2. They will ship to me and I can have yours when I come over to solder up the wires.

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[Tommy B]

perfect $10.00 bucks it is.
Have fun, be careful, come back in one piece. Your the only camping connection I have these days.

[Tommy B]

don't neglect surface prep, and consider active heati, g

http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/bonding-and- ... e452ca38c0

Excellent John! Thank You so much. This is a big deal and you set me on the right path! I will follow those instructions for aluminum.


Hey one inch is a tad too big but half inch was a tad to small. I went one inch and there may be 2/8 or so protruding out the edges.

Don't know how that will work out as it will attract dirt and grime very quickly. Maybe I can trim with razor blade prior to peeling of the backing or perhaps run a bead of caulk along the top and bottom once its installed?

[John61CT]

Either way, or maybe both? Razor after not before.

If caulking, consider an adhesive sealant like Sikaflex 219 LM.

Position the tape so there is a 1 mm exposed gap on the top side, finish the taping, let it set completely, then gently run a thin but complete bead along the top join.

Might help take a bit of the load strain off the tape in addition to sealing against moisture.

Let everything cure completely, then razor off the excess tape from the bottom.

Caulk seal that too if you're OCD like me.

To be extreme do all the above but re-order to get the thinner tape and position it so the edge gap is both top and bottom.

But to put things in perspective, all the above is likely overkill to an insane degree 8-)

[flboy]

You may be right on that. It is possible to over do it. ;-)

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[Tommy B]

I watched some very good you tube videos on application of the tape.

From What I see after you roll it on with pressure, half inch probably would be fine with no excess to worry about AND I would rivet both ends directly to the C.T. In addition to the tape. Then caulk the edges.

That it and that's the way I will do it.

Tommy out until its all done!

[Tommy B]

Well the TV antenna is mounted proper. The LED light channel is attached and caulked in tight. Looks good. HOWEVER, the LED lights do not stick at all. I even purchased another brand at expense and they did not stick either. You could see the back of the tape had peeled off some in storage and it dried out in the box on both sets.

I am having to order more double sided sticky tape and will use that stuff to secure the LED lights into the channel as it really works well.

Don I figured it was high time I ordered this iron for $17.00 and that will set you free my friend!

[flboy]

Sounds good Tommy! Glad it is all working. I was watching a movie outdoors last night on my TV. It was great. :-)

Careful on peeling the LED backing off. The sticky stuff is still there, but the paper comes off on the backside of the clear piece that covers the sticky stuff. Take your fingernail and work the edge of it, you will see what I mean. The clear backing will come off the sticky stuff then. That was how mine were also.. The paper wanted to come off the clear piece that covers the sticky stuff.



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[Tommy B]

Don I took another REALLY close look at the tape. Like you said brother! My, eyes, my knees, my......anyway, thank you for the input. We have LED lights!
Wait for dark to see!

I beefed up the forward end with that really good tape as you can see. I also have opaque covers but we will see how it looks with and with out them.

Now I have that other cheap set to put in the trailer. These cost $95.00 but they are noticeably beefy and bigger than the $18.00 ones and they came with a 12v cigarette lighter plug in plus a really good wireless remote with antenna. It really works from a distance.

That caulking is non- self leveling LAP sealant. I did not even know it existed. Learning so much every day now.

[flboy]

Nice work Tommy!

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[Padilen]

I had bought some too,but I gave them away as a present. Forgot about it, now since everyone else is I must.

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[Tommy B]

Padilen, get them back!
This is with the opaque covers and I will leave them on. Oh yes they JAZZ and mix or static. 5 or 6 six colors.

[Padilen]

I could he hasn't used them yet! But I'm not like that.

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[McDave]

Don I figured it was high time I ordered this iron for $17.00 and that will set you free my friend!

That aboy! That's a damn nice set for 17.00. A good soldering iron and a VOM are really the basics and should be part of every toolbox. Spend a little time on the net to learn what makes a good, reliable solder joint. Once you have that skill down, you will never have to worry about yourconnections failing. Bad connections are the most common failure and cause of damage. In the future you may find a need for a soldering gun, or butane pencil torch. Those are mainly for people who do a lot of field repairs, but they come in handy.
Just remember that with soldering cleanliness is next to godliness. Oxidation is a killer. Keep that tip tinned at all times. Solder is an electrical component ONLY. It is NOT a mechanical attachment or weld. If you need strain relief to protect the connection use a mechanical method. (screws, clamps, ties, shrink tube, epoxy, etc.) Clean the flux left behind, as it is still a corrosive. Less is more, you should be able to see the contours of the wire in the solder and it should have a bright, shiny, metallic luster. "Bridge" soldering is probably the easiest and most effective. Prepare the wires to be soldered, clean and twisted tight, then put a healthy drop of solder on the iron tip. Use that drop to form a heat bridge to the connection, then feed solder as needed. Heat it, feed it, get off. The heat can do damage as well. A little practice and you'll get the timing down.
Another feather in your cap. Good Luck.

McDave

[flboy]

Good advice!

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