2013 Mirage XPO 6x12- Mt Air Express

[hankaye]

lrrowe, Howdy;

I'll add a resounding 2ed. to Cindy's thoughts about the vents, go back to my last post
and you'll see where I had them not install the vents in mine as well.

hank

[lrrowe]

Cindy, while we do have droughts ( more often then you might think) here and while my hunting and fishing trips down the gravel roads do create lots of dust, I guess they cannot compare to what you are descrIbing. I guess in all parts of this country one is going to find extremes. But given the chance, I would love to get beyond the Mississippi and experience your great sights.

[lrrowe]

Thanks Hank,

Before this thread, I was not going to add them. And now for sure, I will not have them.

[hankaye]

lrrowe, Howdy;

I have them, just not installed ... who knows ... down the road ... might change my mind.
Have them put them on the floor. Had them do the same with my spare and the bracket for the spare.

hank

[Rainier70]

If I am thinking of the right vents, then they are really only for gas vapors etc when you are hauling atvs or other motorcycles etc. I wonder if your roof vents would be enough?

[lrrowe]

Having no travel vents should not be an issue for me at the onset of my trailer usage because I really do not see me carrying gas or such in the CT.. Should I ever have to deal with keeping vapors out and such, I supposed I could always add them. Cindy, if one used the top vent, would not another be required? One for air in and one for air out?

[Rainier70]

I think probably so, but I was wondering if anyone knew for sure.

[lrrowe]

Cindy,
Look what I found at http://www.fiberglassrv.com, page 9 of forum:'

"My pickup truck's canopy aka topper has the right-angle cornered crank out windows and it's only a couple of years old, so someone is still making them.

Even the sliders allow dust to enter, as I found on my trip to Alaska on the back dusty roads -- The brushes separating the windows are not air-tight, nor are the drip caps under the bottom track -- My sliders are on the back, and of course that's where the eddy currents keep air and dust circulating against the rear of the egg.

(Photo would not copy)


Photo taken at Ross River, YT.

If one wants to make an egg dust free for the most part, then one should have an air vent somewhere that points forward -- This will put positive air pressure in the egg and prevent dust from coming in -- Perhaps a deck ventilation fitting from the marine world."

I am not sure about the validity of this, but in a way, it does sound logical.

[lrrowe]

But then you have to make sure that the forward facing vent does not suck in the dusty air. Nothing is simple any more, is it?

[printer88]

Just gotta say wow! This is an awesome conversion. Very inspirational.

[Rainier70]

Thank you, Printer88. It fits my needs, and it has been fun to build. I am still far from done, but getting a bit more in all the time.

[Rainier70]

I replaced the cargo net I was using for my sleeping bag and pillows with a bunk/storage shelf made from 3/4 in electrical conduit. It is holding up well so far, but I probably should have used 1in conduit to make it a bit stronger as a bunk.

I already had the d ring hangers up on the top of some of my ribs to tie off the cargo net and for other uses. Once I put the bunk together and sewed a cover for it, all I needed to do was add the straps to the corners to raise and lower it.

This first picture is a poor picture of one of my grandsons, but was the only one where the flash worked and isn't blury.





This one is with the bunk pulled up and loaded with sleeping bags and pillows for traveling.



I added this picture to show the dust curtain that I put up for traveling on gravel roads. It catches the dust and dirt that collects on top of the rear door seals and keeps it from coming inside when I open the back doors.

[Rainier70]

As you can see by the pictures I have posted above, I have finished putting the panels up for my ceiling. I still need to put up some molding yet. That isn't a huge priority,so it will probably wait a while.

I used the 1/4in moisture resistant underlayment plywood from HD. The plywood has two finished sides. One side looks like a Philippian Mahogany and the other is very light in color....almost a birch color. The finish was a water based semi-gloss clear polyurethane. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-7- ... /203183010

I have also put aluminum flashing up in my curved side area and both front and back end caps. I used a 25 ft roll of 14 in aluminum flashing. I first cut off the 12 ft for the sides and then cut it in half length-wise. So then I had two pieces of 7in flashing for the sides. I chose to use the wider 14in because I wanted to also use it for the piece above the back door and the area of the front cap. The front cap was tricky and I got a couple of kinks in it where there were double bends. I will have to take some more pictures of the front later. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construction ... /202092848

[Rainier70]

I should add that I used the alum on the section above the back doors because I wanted something that could be easily removed. There are a number of lights and wire connections that I hope I won't need to get to in that area, but if I sealed it up tight I would be sure to immediately have a problem and need in the area. That is just the way it works! As it is the alum sits inside the lip of the u tube above the door and will be easy to pop out.

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Great going Cindy and it looks like your grandson is ready to go camping ... I think I can hear him ... "Let's go Grandma!"