Air Conditioning Question

[michiganflipper]

http://www.kz-rv.com/brochures_2010/KZ10_SprtClassicFlyer.pdfcheck out this camper they are using a 5,000 btu a/c unit in them

[mikeschn]

Dan,

Here's how the ac was installed. The vent to the right was the only air it was getting.



See the white box to the right of the microwave? When I removed this box, everything worked perfectly!



Mike...

[edcasey]

I know you said the air coming out of your A/C was cold but did you take a temperature reading? A properly functioning A/C should have at least a 20 degree temperature difference between the air entering the evaporator and the cooled air exiting. You said the interior temperature was 78 degrees so the cooled air should be blowing out at 58 degrees or less. If there is at least a 20 degree temperature differential and the condenser and condenser fan intake vents (vents on the side of the air conditioner) are properly vented outside the camper and the air conditioner wont cool , than the air conditioner is too small for your camper. I would expect at only 80 degrees and low humidity a properly functioning 5000 btu air conditioner should have performed better.

[8ball_99]

You might want to take that one back and replace it with the exact same unit and give it another try.. If that size unit works for others then maybe you just got a bad one? If the side vents aren't blocked and the hot air coming out the back is going outside then there isn't much else you can do. If the unit can't keep up I'm not sure I'd go all the way to a 10k unit.. I'd probably just go up one or two steps.. Like I said before Just going from a 5k to a 8k made a Huge difference. I can keep that room 65 if I want where as before I did good to keep it below 80 on a summer day. The problem is you dont want to go much larger then needed because its very hard on a AC if it cycles on and off constantly. If its to large that exactly what it will do..

[Kurt (Indiana)]

This is very interesting. I was planning on getting a 5000btu unit, and assumed it would cause ice to form inside while it was 100 outside.

Anyone else have a report card for how their 5000btu window units perform?

Mine works extremely well in the teardrop. Of course, I don't need to run it on "Hi" but if it's set on low or medium, it really does the job.

Mine is mounted under the galley and blows cool air up ito the cabin.

It has to be vented well especially when it's working hard (in 100 degree - ambient air).

Since I put it in the "teardrop" camping experience is better than ever.

[SmilinJack]

Thanks for the input, Edcasey. I'll check the temperature differential first chance I get...

[SmilinJack]

8ball_99, I'll try the 8,000 BTU next if the 5,000 is working as edcasey says it should. Thanks...

[xrover]

I'm going to go for one of these:

http://www.kooleraire.com/

[lonerider]

I'm going to go for one of these:

http://www.kooleraire.com/

If there's alot of humidity that will make it worse inside!! You will get up in the morning and everything will be damp!!!

[xrover]

I'm going to go for one of these:

http://www.kooleraire.com/

If there's alot of humidity that will make it worse inside!! You will get up in the morning and everything will be damp!!!

There are some tips on that. For example, I plan to use 2 ltr frozen bottles so there is no contact with the water. At $39.99 I'll be a guinea pig!

[eamarquardt]

I'm confused. What is the purpose of the vent to the right of the a/c unit. The cold output on the a/c are on top of the face unit. The return air enters the bottom of the face, so what does the vent on the right do.

What are you doing with the hot air coming off of the condensor? If the unit isn't allowed to disapate the heat, the unit won't cool.

You should consider insulating the sides of your trailer. Cars have a/c units as big as the average house because of the lack of insulation and all the windows. W/O insulation, your fighting an uphill battle. Better to reduce the a/c requirements than buy a bigger a/c unit (IMHO).

Cheers,

Gus

[8ball_99]

Window AC has two different inputs. You have the return in the front then you have the vents on the side that pull air in and exhaust it out the back to cool the condenser. My guess is his vent in the picture is for the vents in the side.. This is a very bad idea.. You are pulling cooled air from inside and exhausting it outside This also just pulls more hot air into the trailer. The face of a window ac should be sealed in the trailer and the side vents and rear should be outside. They really won't work any other way. BTW those pics are not the OP. I think his unit is installed like it should be?

[bobhenry]

Window AC has two different inputs. You have the return in the front then you have the vents on the side that pull air in and exhaust it out the back to cool the condenser. My guess is his vent in the picture is for the vents in the side.. This is a very bad idea.. You are pulling cooled air from inside and exhausting it outside This also just pulls more hot air into the trailer. The face of a window ac should be sealed in the trailer and the side vents and rear should be outside. They really won't work any other way. BTW those pics are not the OP. I think his unit is installed like it should be?

Duh ! I just figured out why my 5,000 btu on high wouldn't keep up !

All I had exposed out of my A/C neich box was about 2" of the rear of the unit.

Boy do I feel stupid ! Time to redesign the neich with intakes for the side vents I guess.

[Arne]

the real and side vents need to be exposed to outside air. can't recall which takes air in and which pushes air out, but the only thing that should be in the t/d is the front of the a/c unit.

[eamarquardt]

I imagine the side vents are the intake for cooling the condensor and the heated air exits through the condenser in the rear of the unit.

It would appear we have zeroed in on the problem.

I'd still insulate the sides. If a summer sun is shining on the side the heat gain will be pretty big.

Cheers,

Gus