6.5x12 Cargo conversion Toy Hauler WannaBe!

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Postby pete42 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:41 am

GPW I slept on a folding bed in the Navy.

On the Carrier it was welded but looked like a pipe frame and it had a canvas strung between the rails it had a small mattress

on the submarine it was a metal box it opened to get to your clothes

both were very comfortable
but then again I was 18 not 69
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Postby Jo » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:01 am

but then again I was 18 not 69


Haha good one!
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Folding Bed Mountings

Postby CT Eddie » Sun Apr 03, 2011 2:26 pm

Jo, Nice CAD drawing on the fold up bed. Do you have any details of the wall mount and hinge hardware? Nice CT, looks GREAT.. :applause:
On the pipe frame sea fairing bunks, I was a little older, 20, and they were very confortable. The supension chains provided a handhold in heavy seas.. :worship: ..
Last edited by CT Eddie on Sun Apr 03, 2011 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby vreihen » Sun Apr 03, 2011 2:27 pm

Jo wrote:Looking under the trailer, I can see that the marine grade plywood has no protection.

What do you suggest to protect it?


I am going to go against the conventional wisdom here, and say that you should leave it bare like the factory did.

When I was picking up my trailer, I asked the dealer what he recommended I use to seal the underside of the plywood. He said that the factory uses latex paint on the interior side, and left the underside bare for a reason. Plywood needs to breathe, and sealing both sides stops it from breathing and makes it rot quicker. He even went on to say that just about every CT that he's seen with a rotted deck was because the owner added extra sealer trying to prevent it from rotting!

So, even though it goes against my own common sense, I'm going to leave mine bare and let it breathe. I figure if it does rot, I'll make an improvement and put in an upgraded all aluminum deck that will never rot again.....
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Re: Folding Bed Mountings

Postby Jo » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:04 pm

CT Eddie wrote:Jo, Nice CAD drawing on the fold up bed. Do you have any details of the wall mount and hinge hardware? Nice CT, looks GREAT.. :applause:
On the pipe frame sea fairing bunks, I was a little older, 20, and they were very confortable. The supension chains provided a handhold in heavy seas.. :worship: ..


I will give you the details and pics when it's done!
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Postby Jo » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:06 pm

vreihen wrote:
Jo wrote:Looking under the trailer, I can see that the marine grade plywood has no protection.

What do you suggest to protect it?


I am going to go against the conventional wisdom here, and say that you should leave it bare like the factory did.

When I was picking up my trailer, I asked the dealer what he recommended I use to seal the underside of the plywood. He said that the factory uses latex paint on the interior side, and left the underside bare for a reason. Plywood needs to breathe, and sealing both sides stops it from breathing and makes it rot quicker. He even went on to say that just about every CT that he's seen with a rotted deck was because the owner added extra sealer trying to prevent it from rotting!

So, even though it goes against my own common sense, I'm going to leave mine bare and let it breathe. I figure if it does rot, I'll make an improvement and put in an upgraded all aluminum deck that will never rot again.....


Thanks for your input!

Maybe it's different if your always running into water etc...
Maybe your dealer is right... Hmm any more advice on this?
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Postby pete42 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:50 pm

My scamp trailers floor looked bare
the factory sprayed it with epoxy
they had plenty because the trailer was all fiberglass
floor got sprayed before it was attached to the trailer.
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Postby tod » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:38 pm

I like those leg brackets. Where are you getting them from? They are much "cleaner" looking than what I am currently using--2x4s with door hinges.

I will use folding legs brackets like this:
Image[/quote]
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Postby Jo » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:49 am

tod wrote:I like those leg brackets. Where are you getting them from? They are much "cleaner" looking than what I am currently using--2x4s with door hinges.


McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#table-leg-hinges/=bq7d3c
Part number: 18095A51

Actually, I'm not ordering from them because they no longer ship to Canada.
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Postby tod » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:16 am

Thank you!
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Postby GPW » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:46 am

Just my 2 cents on those floors ... On my TT there is a plastic liner under the OSB floor ... A leak developed and the plastic liner held the water on the OSB long enough for it to rot ... Had it not been there , the water would have drained off and not rotted the flooring ... FWIW...

... reason I recommended cots is you don't have to build in anything in , it's a Cargo trailer eh ! ... Might want to use it as such between camping sessions ... Just a thought !!!
There’s no place like Foam !
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Postby Jo » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:57 am

I had the same issue with my old RV trailer... the tarp kept the water and the floor rot...
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Postby Jo » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:05 pm

Ok Here's what i'm planning to do:

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Postby proformance » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:41 pm

May I make a recommendation for the Battery Master Switch (power switch) installation.

1) Use an A/B select Master switch switch (Off/A/B/A&B)

2) Wire the switch so the Battery is on the common post (the center post)

3) Wire the Trailer Component Fuse Panel to "B" terminal on the Battery Switch.

4) Wire the Charging Circuits to the "A" terminal.

5) There should be a second fuse box that all the charging components pass through. This will protect your trailer wiring should any of the wiring passing between a charge circuit and the battery were to short.

The above will allow you to disconnect the charging circuits and/or the trailer independently from the battery while leaving the apposed connected. And, it will allow you to completely disable all from one another. This will allow you to perform maintenance more easily in the future and disable components not in use.
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Postby Jo » Mon Apr 04, 2011 1:02 pm

Thank you Proformance!

5) There should be a second fuse box that all the charging components pass through.
You are absolutely right! I will add a fuse for each charging devices.

A A/B select switch is the best choice, but I already have a On/Off switch...

Will see...
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