drop down bed???

[B@tt]

anyone? is that too much weight to be hanging off the wall?

[customstorm]

I've been lurking for awhile getting ideas for my CT conversion and saw this topic on drop down beds -- something I've been drawing out for some time and will require lowering manually from the ceiling to floor/sleeping height. Two final designs will be tested:

1) Bedframe is 1" EMT conduit with "tarp" connectors (see http://www.ysbw.com/Canopy-Fittings-1-Inch-s/7.htm). Use 6 "flat side" fittings (the ones with legs) for 4 corners and a middle brace. The bed is as wide as you care to place the fittings, and the EMT spans the trailer width. Either lace with lawn chair ribbing, or place two cut sheets of plywood over the metal frame and flat screw into the EMT. Place 4 - 2x4 vertical braces against the walls (2 on each side) with 1" grooves cut at ceiling, mid-height, and final sleeping height elevations. These will hold the bedframe in place during travel (up against the ceiling) and when lowered, into the sleeping level. Cut EMT legs (6) for sleeping support. Use 4 inch high density foam as the sleeping pad -- cover however you see fit.

2. Similar to above, but rather than EMT total frame, use only 2 long pieces of EMT to span the trailer width, and construct a wooden frame that "laces" through the EMT (skip the "flat side" fittings). Cover frame with plywood or individual wooden slats to the desired width. Again, side supports need 3 levels (the middle is for an interim catch as the bed is manually lowered to the floor).

This may be hard to visualize, but I'll post pictures once I 1) finally get my trailer delivered (6 weeks now from ordering, and still no trailer; and 2) actually test both designs. Good stuff happening on this forum, and glad to finally speak up.

[CT Eddie]

anyone? is that too much weight to be hanging off the wall?

The point is "hanging off the wall". The weight of any major fixture IMHO should be extended down to the floor and the ultimate strength of a cargo trailer, the frame. Thus, the attachments to the wall carry little weight, but add stability to the installation. As in the bed discussions the legs of the supporting wall section transfer the weight to the floor/frame and the wall stabilize the installation, just as it would with the tool cabinet. IMHO....

[Engineer Guy]

Re: weight transfer to the Trailer Floor, what CT Eddie said twice...

I'd consider something like a horizontal 1x4 tied to all available Wall 'Studs' over the width of the Bed. Then, at the middle and at the outside edges, run 3 - 1x4s to the Floor from just under the horizontal 1x4 so they act like Cripple Studs in House Framing. Net 'protrusion' of this supported Header out from the Trailer Wall = 3/4".

I've built 3 or 4 non-Murphy Beds over the years. My 'best' design was quite light. I screwed and glued 2x2s to the bottom inside of the long axis Frame Rail sides. I ran vertical 1x6s perpendicular 1' apart to create 6' wide span strength like a Glider Plane Wing. Those 1x6s were notched so that the bottom sat on top of the 2x2s. The bottoms of the 1x6s were flush with the bottom of the Bed Frame side rails. The King Size Foam Mattress support was 1/4 Plywood screwed to the 1x6 tops. This could likely also be thin Luan, as used on Trailer Walls. This made the whole, lightweight assy much like 1/2 of a Stress Skin Wall. Like the new Engineered Wood 'I' Beams used for House Joist Flooring, the 1/6s are very strong IF held in place vertically by the attached Ply. I wanted to get a 'clear' span under a very nice Walnut Bed w/o a bunch of cheesy, mid-span supports to the Floor.

Other folks here have used heavier Ply, and not-so-deep cross members supporting that Ply. This reduces protrusion depth from the Wall of the folded-up Bed. I'm just trying to toss out some thoughts; not engineer the 'ultimate' end design...

For a Bed not as wide as a King, smaller 1x4s would likely work if some flexion is OK. The Plywood distributes load to all cross members.

For removable Doors on Sound System Rack Boxes, I've used Hinges with an attached Pin that has no 'button' end. This allows you to slide the 2 Hinge halves apart. ~3 of these Hinges mounted VERY carefully in a straight axis horizontally would let you mount the Bed Headboard to the Wall Header above. Then, you could slide the entire Bed laterally and remove it at will for more CT space, if needed...

[Capt. Home Slice]

It's been a while since I've posted. Lot's of things going on but anyways, I was in the same boat as you with my 6x12.. Bringing 2 bikes to the track, campin out in the trailer.. anyways, here's a few pics of what I came up with... Wooden frame, dropped in a queen sized 10" mem. foam mattress. These pics were taken mid-build.. since then I added folding legs so I wouldn't need the jack stands, and added some plastic channel on the raw plywood edges so we wouldn't get splinters tossin' and tunin'. It's bolted to the floor and I use bungees to secure the top.

It was a dream to sleep in with my gal. Good luck with whatever you choose

pics are too big to upload so here are the links.

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5813/ctbuild.jpg

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/2369/ctbuild1.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3201/ctbuild2.jpg

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2464/ctbuild6.jpg

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/6545/ctbuild7.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7162/ctbuild5.jpg

[B@tt]

Nice set up. I would really like to see your finished pics if you have some available. Did you add legs near the hinge as well or are you relying on the strength of the hinges to hold you and your lady up?

10 inch memory foam will take a bit more space than I am willing to give up, so I have been thinking about 4 inch. Can anyone chime in on the comfort level of 4 inch memory foam laid over 1/2 plywood?

[Capt. Home Slice]

I'll see what I can find this weekend as far as pics.

I've got three folding legs across the top side/farthest from the hinge.. and then no legs by the hinges... There are 4 decent sized door hinges there and it's pretty sturdy.

The size of things worked out just right having 2 bikes + 10 inches to spare, so thats why I went that size. 4" might just do the trick for you but I can't say for sure. 10" was overkill but it sure sleeps nice.

Down side to the bed is that it's got some heft to it so a strong back is needed to fold it down/up. I suppose a crank cable system could be installed.

[southpennrailroad]

I have a full size bed mounted to the studs with 1x4 as supports on the foot and head walls with just three supports from side to side. One weekend I had four of us probably 600 lbs total on the bed as we watched with a teenager a 8 year old and two adults sitting on the bed watching TV.

[k0py]

I think i know what you are looking for because i was wanting the same thing.. i wanted very low profile with high strength. i think i did a pretty good job. the bars that hold the bed panels to the wall are the legs as well. i can easily fit my 2 motorcycles in there with all my crap. these pics are a little bit old as i also have a motorcycle holding system that i devised for the trailer as well. if you wanna come check it out im not that far from you.

[B@tt]

Thats a nice set up. I like the way it fold from each wall to meet in the middle. I was going to build my bed with 1" steel square, but not being a welder, that proved to be over my acceptable budget. I opted to build a queen size bed that folds down from one wall out of 2x4's and 2x2's.

its viewable in my build thread here.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=43778

I would really like to see your motorcycle holding system if you have time to send some pics. I have been thinking about just buying some chocks from Harbor Freight, but am a little worried about the longevity of them.

[k0py]

i looked at the harbor freight chocks too and just thought they were kinda flimsy. i worry about my bikes too much to use crappy tie down stuff. ill hafta take a pic another day for ya ( ill try not to forget ) i just went out to the trailer after work and polyurethaned the inside. so that needs to dry. i am also trying to get ready for memorial day.

[8ball_99]

Nice job on the bed Frame!

[k0py]

heres a pic of the bikes in there. i just roll them up in there backwards and lean them against the wall. then put the bar up and pull the bike to it and strap er down. that black bar sits up under the bed frame angle iron. while they are strapped down i tugged on them and they felt VERY secure. i originally wanted to put them in the normal way but there was no available wallstud where i wanted to put the bar across. i kinda like this way though because when the bikes are in there i can walk between them to access stuff i may put next to them without the handlebar ends jabbing me in the gut.

[B@tt]

I really like that idea. How does it attach to the wall? Looks alot cheaper than $50+ each for wheel chocks.

Thanks for the pic.

[k0py]

it doesnt really attach to the wall. it just sits in the little spot there next to screw. it wouldnt be hard to make a wall bracket to hold a bar or you could even use the etrack stuff and a 2x4 holder to put a cross bar anywhere you want to. i just tend to make my own stuff because i have more time than money.