Dual purpose new 7x14 project

[dustboy]

Many modern homes have a plastic vapor barrier on the inside of the wall, under the sheetrock. This keeps moist air from indoors from condensing inside the wall. The outside of the wall is generally vapor-permeable (Tyvek) to allow any trapped water vapor to escape.

I did mine similar to yours, and used the mylar tape to cover the gap between the foam and the steel stud. It won't stop the stud from transferring heat, but it should keep some interior moisture from getting through. I'm not willing to give up any headroom or interior space like OTTCT. There are plenty of small gaps in the sheet siding to allow the wall cavity to dry out.

My interior paneling is 1/4" thick, and there is a slight fog of condensation along the studs on the coldest night (30 deg F).

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hi Torrys & Dustboy

You gotta remember Most folks just want to camp in their trailer on the weekends or a few weeks per year.
My design goal is to live in the thing 24 / 7 / 365
I want to drive around the country and put 100,000+ miles on the trailer.
I want to be able to do some mild off road travel
I want to be able to live 100% off the grid for 30+ days.
I wanna hang out where its -10 or -20 below and up to 100+ deg.
I would like my A/C to cool 7 x 18 with under 500 watts = 5,000 Btu
I would like the Insulation to be so I need zero heat ( except body & appliances ) down to freezing.
I can use my 80 gallon water tanks to actually heat the trailer when it gets down to -10, also keeps my water from freezing
So i'm pushing the envelope pretty hard.

The general RV or trailer is designed for 30 deg to 85 deg & be connected to the GRID !
- 13,000 btu a/c and a 20,000 Heater will work great.

AS MUCH AS I HATE TO ADMIT IT !!!
being a former insulation contractor < 1980 SHAME - SHAME - SHAME
I had rivers of condensation on every metal surface & that was only with 25 deg outside & 50 deg inside...
The condensation started forming at 50 deg - when humidity was over 50% outside in winter
SURE - Ventilation can help, but your also getting rid of the heat - as you ventilate enough. So what is the point ?

Most RV's are made of wood, for a reason - because they transfer the heat loss & gain SLOWER !!
LOOK at wood frame RV's - even after 20 - 30 years the frame is ROTTED - OUT, people assume its LEAKS
But based on my experience & observations its also very much condensation.


NOW.... I don't wanna swear that I have the perfect solution this time around ?
but I will get very close to my goal... I promise you.
only time will tell ?

This time around I have a mostly wood wall trailer & 100% alum seamless roof...
ZERO- RUST !!, No metal studs - one problem solved.

Jerry

[Quadriderdad]

Things you find when you go a looking





...funny, I have the exact same holes in both corners...lol

[Dusty-NZ]

I just found this thread.

This is a great looking build , it's gonna be very cosy and warm

I see you have decided to use the sheet insulation , I wondered if it is polystyrene ?

Are you aware that the poly dissolves the pvc insulation on your wiring? The wiring needs to be in conduit or some other protective wrap. google this on some other caravan / motorhome forums .

Regards

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hey Mate

That's only a worry in New Zealand , the yanks here are fearless

[Quadriderdad]

I just found this thread.

This is a great looking build , it's gonna be very cosy and warm

I see you have decided to use the sheet insulation , I wondered if it is polystyrene ?

Are you aware that the poly dissolves the pvc insulation on your wiring? The wiring needs to be in conduit or some other protective wrap. google this on some other caravan / motorhome forums .

Regards

Thats interesting...never heard of that....i had to read the article. We build all our product to applicable building codes. I would think this would be a code issue if it is accurate. Maybe the materials used here in the states are made with chemicals that don't react together like that.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Ozzie Boy

You are 100% right , I'm ripping out all my electric wiring and going dark after reading this
It's all dangerious as hell and 1,000 things can go wrong.



http://www.doctorfire.com/PVCwiring.pdf



MECHANISMS AND MODES FOR IGNITION OF LOW-VOLTAGE PVC WIRES, CABLES, AND CORDS
Vytenis Babrauskas, Ph.D.
Fire Science and Technology Inc., 9000 – 300th Place SE, Issaquah WA 98027

[hankaye]

OTTCT, Howdy;

I was intrigued by the table on pg. 295, 6th item down. "Over-insulation,
possibly exacerbated by over current". Especially with your proclivity
for the use of insulation materials.

hank

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I know - I know

I'm gonna have to put special sensors and monitor my wire temps ......
I wonder what Bruce would do in my case ?
It kept me up all last night

HELP BRUCE - wher are you ??


Jerry

[Mark519]

I used oversized marine grade wiring throughout except for #4 and larger which was welding cable. I didn't put it in conduit inside the trailer though. I have no idea what the insulation is made of.

[torrys]

Whooa way too long between updates, slower to get things done but I am getting things finished.
I have really proved to myself the limits of my carpentry/handy guy skills. haha
My brain can envision it but it's tough to get the product out the way it was meant to be. I am close but like
I say...I sure ain't a carpenter and plumb is better left to my desert.

I am close to where I will start to use the trailer now. Plenty more to still finish but all small things and nothing that will interfere with using the trailer. Hopefully get in a couple quick overnighters before I go Elk/Moose hunting for 2 weeks in mid September Gonna be great I got heat and drying wet boots will be easy

From the front view you can see the counter top that was built and then finished at the same time as the floor using the Tremclad Rustoleum. That idea came from pvangel and I added a few coats of Urethane to the counter to give it the seal I wanted but it did give out the trademark yellowish/amber tinge.
Front 2 outlets are 20 amp and the removable counter section over the stove will come in handy, glad I did that. My wife cut up a $20 panel to make these curtains that she split then stuck through a pocket rod.

6000 BTU Olympian Wave Catalytic Htr and glad I took the suggestion to get the cover right away to keep it clean.
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57341-Olymp ... uto_text_y

Progressive Dynamics PD4045 Converter (4-mode batt charging)
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4045-45- ... g8G4X-GPaw





Very happy with the led pot lighting I added at the last minute..although as i hit the switch and they lit up I kinda remembered that I wanted to install a shelf
accross the top. lol me....I guess when install shelving/cupboard i will just lower the lights down under the shelf at that time.




I really liked the pre-installed 12v distribution in this converter, made installation and wiring much easier with 12 pre-wired circuits, 2 of which are 20amp the rest 15amp. I was waffling on battery cable size was thinking 4 but manual says up to 6. I called and the manufaturer says 4 will fit and is fine. Yup the 4 was a prefect fit, not a squeeze but not a lot of extar. Nice and tight. I originally bought a 100amp fuse block but then realized than if fuse goes what if i cant find the spare? So I used a 50 amp breaker instead. With all lighting now LED should be tough to get the 50 amp to trip. Well at least if I am by myself. The wiring can easily take more so i could bump it higher but I thought it was a prudent place to start. I bought a little volt meter/ amp meter with a shunt that i still have to hook up. Of course there was no schematic or diagram of any kind
Oh and thanks to the community here that through everyone else's pictures wiring diagrams and questions I managed to figure it all out.

I decided on 2 Costco golf cart batteries which I have temp set up here, but I need still to make the battery box a tad stronger/clamped down as well.
I need help with a few ideas on some methods to vent it outside. The box is right up against the plywood wall so approx 13/4" for vent purpose.
Any suggestions?

and I do have a question for the electrical knowledgeable: What do I do with the 10awg hot coming from the TV? do I set it to the batteries directly for trickle charge?






I have looked at a lot of mounted beds, some fold down type as well as e-track removable, many permanent. Cost is always a consideration as well as my own personal skill level. I liked the way that pvangel made his but I am not able to do the work he did
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=52284&start=255

Took awhile to decide but I kept coming back to GlenLivet's CT build and found it so functional, so it was inspiration for a few things as you can see.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=46134
I will eventually add his 12v shower also

I can sleep pretty good on a cot I but decided that i wanted a tad more in a CT.
I decided on a full twin size 6" foam mattress and planned the bed around that size.
Gives me the option of just using a single bed along with the seating bench or the full meal deal when with momma.
Could easily add a cot if wanted folds up very nice and easy







Added some checkerplate and propane tanks to the tongue. This is where I wish I had spent a bit more and ordered the extended tongue as I would have then been able to mount my spare here as well. For now it will just go in TV. Was nice to have help from a friend to do the fitting.



We capped a tee underneath that will receive a line with a quick connect for a BBQ on the side near the wheels. Was a nice surprise to find a couple pre drilled holes of correct size in the frame that will facilitate this.






Pretty happy with the way it turned out and still a lot of small things to finish up. Made my share of mistakes and the build process will likely be on-going for quite awhile. Gonna just finish the main things and then leave the rest until it get used. Will have a better idea then what needs to be changed/altered/added.

[hankaye]

torrys, Howdy;

Nice to see what you've done with the place... What kind of coating did you put on the floor?
Sparse but very functional looking.

hank

[torrys]

torrys, Howdy;

Nice to see what you've done with the place... What kind of coating did you put on the floor?
Sparse but very functional looking.

hank

thanks
http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=87
Keep in mind it is still plywood floor and will scratch/gouge , I may put another layer down in the future
For my needs I prob would have been happy with the rhino lining type floor but this was less $$
Yeah sparse for now, I have a cabinet thingy i might put in and still will be putting up something for storage above the beds on the side walls

[hankaye]

torrys, Howdy;

Thanks for the link. There are several others that have
given good reports on this product. Thinking I'll be another,
Just use a few throw rugs to keep my feet from hitting a cold
floor first thing in the am...

hank

[lrrowe]

Torrys,
What is the name of the stove/oven in your photos?