Insulation question

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: Insulation question

Postby roadinspector » Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:49 pm

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:PS Earnest

Isn't 110 deg about normal weather for TEXAS ?? In the summer

I thought you don't need AC until at least 120 deg F at 10 am morning :D :D :D

With all my insulation my 7 x 6 x 18 has now become a 6 x 5 x 16 ,
Maybe that's why the AC works sooooo good :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

LOLROTF !!!


That it is my friend!! I'll share it with ya!! :icedtea: Neighbors don't appreciate me working in the buff with those temps so to keep peace and the cops from paying me a visit I run my AC. :rofl: Some folks just don't have much of a sense of humor about things like that.

We will not be camping in -20 deg temps unless we go to Palo Duro Canyon up in the Panhandle in January. So I don't think condensation will be much of an issue for me. My heater is a forced air system and to my understanding is much better at fighting the drips.

The dollar in the pocket determines one's comfy level more than anything. $>

Peace,
Earnest
Dadgum it! I cut that board 5 times and it's still too short!
2001 quad-cab Dodge Cummins 3/4 ton camper special, 16x7x7 CT work in progress toyhauler, 01 HD Ultra Classic, 98 HD Heritage Softail, 88 HD 1200 Sportster. viewtopic.php?f=42&t=51510
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Re: Insulation question

Postby atcNick » Fri Sep 13, 2013 10:09 am

Another insulation question:

Do you guys insulate the drop down ramp and walk in doors of your cargo trailer?
-Nick
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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:09 am

atcNic

other then Crazy :lol: :lol: OTTCT I have not sean others do that
you will be the 2nd post some pics :pictures: :pictures:
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Re: Insulation question

Postby Treeview » Fri Sep 13, 2013 12:53 pm

The ramp and doors become walls when they're closed...so why wouldn't someone insulate them?

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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:15 pm

are you doing yours ?



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Re: Insulation question

Postby Treeview » Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:33 pm

Done :) See the new pics in my gallery.

The aluminum extrusions came from the scrap yard. They worked out nicely in the end.

See the gridlines under the Lexan? That's the glue holding the 1" foam in place. The inside is 1/4" plywood paneling just like the rest of the walls.

Next week I'm going to install windows in the back doors.

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Re: Insulation question

Postby atcNick » Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:50 pm

Unless there's something structurally different about the ramp that would make it too difficult or expensive to insulate, I plan on insulating it.
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Re: Insulation question

Postby roadinspector » Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:43 pm

I inisulated my ramp. I pulled one piece of plywood and slide it in place. Works great.

Earnest
Dadgum it! I cut that board 5 times and it's still too short!
2001 quad-cab Dodge Cummins 3/4 ton camper special, 16x7x7 CT work in progress toyhauler, 01 HD Ultra Classic, 98 HD Heritage Softail, 88 HD 1200 Sportster. viewtopic.php?f=42&t=51510
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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:32 pm

Is this it ???? How thick is that ??

I'll have to post some pictures of mine tomorrow



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Re: Insulation question

Postby Treeview » Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:42 pm

The sheets are 1". I think that I had to make the rabbet 1/4" to overlap the frame.

The inner channel that the rabbet covers was filled with a ripped strip of foam too.

The outer channel is where the weatherstripping was glued to seal the door to the back of the stretch.

Tom
Last edited by Treeview on Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Sat Sep 14, 2013 10:06 am

here is my door & wall




door 1.JPG
door 1.JPG (62.34 KiB) Viewed 4210 times


door 2.JPG
door 2.JPG (99.25 KiB) Viewed 4210 times

The door insulation , presses against the wall to make a seal.
I will redo this latter in blue board - now is just for testing.

door 3.JPG
door 3.JPG (117.45 KiB) Viewed 4210 times


alaska here i come
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Re: Insulation question

Postby Camp Wags » Sun Feb 14, 2016 2:33 pm

I thought I would revive this post as it contains some great information. I am at this stage in my trailer build and after hours of research on soundproofing and insulating I am more confused now than before.
I would like to get input from those that have done it and have data to back up their claims. “Facta Non Verba” or Deeds Not Words.
Due to my Stealth flat black Cloaking covering on my cargo trailer I will need to think in layers, kind of like an Ogre or a parfait.
139392


I read here that Black roofs will raise the outside surface temperature 90% above the ambient temp. So if it 100 degrees outside, the roof’s surface will be 190 degrees… ouch! So first thing would be to reflect that heat back up and away from the interior of the trailer!
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I am open for suggestions as to what would work the best. I know it will be expensive to do it right.

“sooner or later, with some dumb luck we will find a convert, but when he finds out what that DOW Blue board costs he will get scared off.”


I have 1” metal studs/ribs so I know I will need to make them thicker for the layers. I read somewhere here about underbody spray being used to put a rubberized rust inhibitor coating on the metal ribs.
There is a new product, LizardSkin Ceramic Insulation (CI) that is an advanced spray on thermal coating that consists of a water-based composition of high-grade acrylic binders with ceramic insulation particles to create a thermal barrier. But I would imagine it is high $$$.
139397

Spray foam could be an option but I like the idea of parfaits, I mean layers. Like a Dynamat or Fat Mat applied to the aluminum skin. My thoughts on layers please question me and/or advise me as needed.
The first layer against the skin will need to provide mass and block noise, while a layer of acoustic foam will work as a decoupler, structurally isolating the layer from the wall or ceiling, which in turn improves the sound stopping performance.
139380139381139382


Next would be foam to fill out the rib depth with some kind of decoupler added to extend the depth of the studs.

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The next layer consists of a foil bubble foil, or a foil-batt material that retards heat transfer by reflecting heat back to its source and by trapping air in its multiple layers.
139385139386 139387
Followed by a second layer of foam and plywood. I Like the ceiling insulation here.
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For the floor insulation start with foam then plywood with an Acoustic Underlayment used under flooring to improve the trailer’s sound insulation.
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I like what Over the Top did for his ceiling with the denim batt insulation.
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Some other products I have considered.
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I want to do this right the first time... So if you have knowledge about what would work best and if you had it to do over... How would you do it?http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=42&t=57263#
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Re: Insulation question

Postby Treeview » Sun Feb 14, 2016 3:21 pm

Layers, like you're proposing makes the best sense.

One thing that I would NEVER do is use the denim insulation. I make my living as an arborist. Working outside all year around, and camping too, taught be decades ago the maxim:

Cotton cools,
Kotton kills.

No natural fibers in my performance clothing...of my camper either.

Sound deadening applied to the centers of the large surfaces makes a bit of sense. From what I've gathered though it isn't needed for 100% coverage. Stopping the 'oil canning' and popping of the sheet metal is what you're after. The multi-layers beyond will dampen most of the sound though even if you don't soundproof.

At first I used spray foam to fill the tubes in the roof of the ToyBox. I learned that it was a bit of a lost cause though. Very little insulation gain for the cost. Since you're going to fir out the ribs to but on more layers it would make little sense to chase down the tiny gain.

If you can alternate the edges of the insulation layers you'll gain too. Maybe the between-ribs are vertical, makes it the easiest install. Glue in place and tape the edges to the ribs. Next layer out edges go horizontal. My guess is that you know all of this anyway.

I used foil covered foam board. It was the cheapest R-value per inch thickness. In my case I didn't want to give up any ceiling height.

If I had more lateral and vertical dimensions I might have tried to break the thermal bond. When I think about a next-build I do wonder how I might accomplish this...or even if it would be worth the cost/gain. Any idea I found after I had used 1x2 firring strips on my walls every 2' as 'studs' was that galvanized Z-strips might be a good choice. Along these lines:

http://www.phillipsmfg.com/metal-channe ... r-framing/

Maybe even use vinyl...more research.

Vapor barrier went on then paneling.

Have fun!
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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:50 pm

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Re: Insulation question

Postby OverTheTopCargoTrailer » Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:50 pm

Ops double post
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