Tips for a newbie build please?

[MMOLLECK]

Yea, I'm planning on using plywood for the facing. I think what would be easiest, is the just attach the plywood to the frame, and use a jigsaw to cut all the openings.....I THINK haha! I will have to take a look at your gallery tomorrow at work, I can't seem to find how to view it on my iPad.

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Mike,
If you have access to a router or know someone that will cut the panel for you, a flush-trim bit will cut the panel exactly to the pattern ... in this case, the frame behind. Once this is done, change out the bit to a round-over or chamfer bit and carefully blend the edges of the panel. Then, sand it and stain, paint, and finish as you like. Again, it is not the normal technique used in cabinet making, but it can fairly nice job ... a lot depends on the plywood used. A cabinet grade plywood is stronger, has more plys, and typically has fewer voids in between the ply layers than construction grade plywood. It is more expensive, but it is typically used in the making of cabinets, so be the name.

If you are new to a router, read up on its use, get some help, start on scrap, and be careful; the router turns extremely fast and pulls into the direction of bit rotation. If you go too slow, it can burn the wood and bit (note the corners in the example given in my gallery) , if too fast, it can bind and break the bit/bit shank, pull from the wood, and or leave a rough finish. A great tool, but as in all power tools (As Norm would say) know and understand the tool before use. Please do not get me wrong, I love the router and find it to be a great tool; I have 4 or 5 routers, from the tiny Roto-Zip, to a 3-1/2 hp that I have the monster mounted for table use as a router/shaper. I originally started to build the doors for my cabinets and decided to wait until I get this move over with. Good luck and be careful my friend ... frightened:

[MMOLLECK]

Well now I'm starting over , yesterday, while at my parents house my dad asked me and my brothers if any of us could use a roll around tool box. I quickly said YUP! I knew which one he was talking about cause I gave it to him a long time ago. Just a small roll around craftsman bottom box. SOOOOOO, all that framing I did will be taken apart (luckily its all screwed together) and I will build cabinets around this tool box. I figure it will give me plenty of drawer space, to be used as half tool box, half utensils (plastic knives,forks….spatulas…whatever) then the cabinets can house all else. Also thinking about leaving openings on either side for long items (bags set, folding chairs etc) to slide in for transport. Ive figured out with this, that I'm really not horrible at construction….I just need a firm direction on where to go instead of thinking of it along the way Im looking forward to this part being done so I can move onto other projects (windows, power, vents etc)

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Sounds like you have a plan ... Great going and we are waiting for the photos

[MMOLLECK]

Well it's snowing here (gotta love Illinois weather) so prob start on it tomorrow. But now that I have a half way plan, I think it will go somewhat fast

[MMOLLECK]

Well was able to get out to the garage for just about an hour last night. Enough time to get the casters off the tool box, clean it out, cut my hand on who knows what and get things in motion. Actually worked perfect. I set it in the trailer for a visual and it will fit just how I want it. Hoping this weekend to find a few hours time to get it framed in. Should go pretty quickly. I got a deal of a lifetime on batteries, that I am picking up today. My friend has 2 6 volt golf cart batteries, wired in series, WITH a solar panel. Don't know what the solar panel is rated for, but he says its plug and play, and everything is good to go and basically new. says the batteries offer 232AH….I think that'd be enough for the bargain total of $50! No typo, $50.00! Then this weekend I have a side job coming in (hail damage car) which should give me enough money to order everything I need to complete the basics of this project……two slider windows, powered roof vent, battery cases, stereo, speakers, lumber to finish front end build and whatever I decide to coat the floor with. Ol UPS man will soon be santa

[jseyfert3]

My friend has 2 6 volt golf cart batteries, wired in series, WITH a solar panel. Don't know what the solar panel is rated for, but he says its plug and play, and everything is good to go and basically new. says the batteries offer 232AH….I think that'd be enough for the bargain total of $50! No typo, $50.00!

Damn! That sounds like a wonderful deal, golf cart batteries are expensive!

[MMOLLECK]

Well had some time tonight to work....would have gotten a lot more done if I would have remembered to plug in my drill battery! Have all the drawers out of the tool box to bolt it down. Right now it's just lightly screwed do to hold it. Will have cabinets on either side of tool box, and the large openings on the ends will be where the speakers will be mounted. All when said and done will be covered in cabinet grade plywood and painted to match tool box (red with black cabinets) at least that is the thought as of now

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[MMOLLECK]

I feel like I made so pretty good headway today. Wrapped up the most of it, used sanded 1/2 plywood for the top and 1/4 luan for the front. Still need to cut two pieces for top and bottom of the box, paint and trim.

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[citylights]

Looks good. That toolbox is a great centerpiece!

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi MMOLLECK,
It looks like you are off to another start and the cabinet is looking good ... the toolbox looks like it was made for your CT!

[MMOLLECK]

Thanks guys! I'm looking forward to trimming and painting. But now trying to figure out where my fuse block will be and where I'll mount the batteries. Thinking about mounting them underneath

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi MMOLLECK,
In response to your e-mail and I thought I would post this here for you and others.

First of all, even though I wired my house addition and am a HAM, I am not an electrician and did a lot of research as to what, how, and where I was going to connect and distribute electricity within an OFF-ROAD trailer, both 12 vdc or 120 vac. I am not telling you how to wire your trailer and can only show/discuss methods I used, to help you build ideas and make decisions of your own. Things like grounding need to be studied and the use of safe electrical wiring practice is highly recommended, especially when wiring a trailer with both 120 vac and 12 vdc.

Here is what I did with my CT build...

--- USAGE RATE -- Because of my low usage and rate of discharge ... I have two overhead lights that have been converted to LED (with fans when needed to ventilate the trailer) and one porch light that is LED. I will be adding two 12 vdc charge ports and two 120 vac ports in the trailer for charging the Metal Detector batteries, computer battery, and cell phones. Because of my low power draw (about 3 - 5 days of usage) and off-road use, I carry a spare (10 amp) battery charger, a 1250 watt generator, and have a Battery Tender Plus installed in circuit.

-- CIRCUIT BREAKERS -- ALL CIRCUITS COMING FROM THE BATTERY are circuit breaker protected at the battery.

-- LARGE CHARGER -- If I am camped for long periods, I can connect the larger charger directly to the battery, plug the 10 amp charger directly into the generator or shore-power, and charge the battery until it comes up.

-- IN-CIRCUIT CHARGER -- I have a Battery Tender Plus (A trickle charger at 1.5 amps with long-term maintenance circuits) installed in shore-power input to battery circuit.

-- OVERNIGHT & LONG-TERM CHARGING -- If I have the trailer shore-outlet plugged into shore power, the Battery Tender Plus will charge the battery at the 1.5 amp rate over night or until I move the trailer. The Battery Tender Plus instructions says it will not cause an issue with a Tow Vehicle source (See note OFF-ROAD below) to the battery and therefore, can be left in-circuit during tow or when parked in-use. When the trailer is plugged into 120 vac shore-power, the Tender charges the battery at 1.5 amps and will maintain the battery if parked for long periods.

-- DOUBLE CHARGING -- The Battery Tender Plus says it cannot be back-powered, HOWEVER I DO NOT PLUG THE TRAILER INTO SHORE POWER WHILE THE LARGE CHARGER IS CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY ... I do not like the idea of having two charge sources.

-- OFF-ROAD -- Because of the off-road use of the trailer and truck for prospecting (I often camp in remote areas near the US - Mexico border and other remote areas), I disconnected my power to trailer wire from the truck battery to preclude discharging my truck battery in the event of a short, even though I have breakers in-circuit, I do not want to be 20 miles from anything and have a dead truck battery.

So far (knock on wood), the Battery Tender Plus has worked as advertised.

There are some great posts on the T&TTT site that discuss electrical power and wiring that have helped me make decisions as to what type of wiring (I actually referenced these posts, as well as the Marine & Automotive specs for much of my wiring ... eg., stranded wiring in lieu of solid house wire) and would suggest you take a look at some of these posts.

Whoops, here is the attachment I forgot to add and again, these were posted somewhere in the T&TTT site (I believe), but cannot remember where I pulled it. It contains ideas and other's methods that you may be able to use to decide on your system.

I can only share my ideas and those of others ... Good Luck.

I hope this helps with your question ... Good luck

[MMOLLECK]

Man that's some good info! From our conversation earlier, I've decided to wire the batteries in their own system, and not mess with any part of the factory wiring set up. I ordered new led Interior lights, which I will place right next to the factory lights. This way, the factory interior lights, will work when the truck is hooked up, and the new lights will work off the new battery set up. I figure this will save me any guess work of trying to figure out a safe way to isolate the new batteries from the truck when towing. From here, wiring will be a breeze. Only thing I will add, is relays for the new lights. I know the new lights draw less than an amp, but by having a relay, it keeps the load off the switch ( I've had switches literally melt before).

Today, I ordered LED interior lights (2), "fantastic" roof vent, 24x30 tinted side window, master battery cut off switch, Jensen waterproof stereo, Rockford fosgate interior speakers, and a LED battery gauge. I think that should pretty close wrap me up. I will still need to order wiring, and fuse block which I can buy local

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi MMOLLECK,
Which LED Battery meter/gauge did you get; I need to install one, but have not made a decision on which one?