Beginner introduction and pre purchase questions

[khigh]

Argh!!!!!!!

Studying more and more - found out I can get a 6x12 for the same price as a 5x10 and that comes with a 6'3" interior stock instead of the 6' after heightening. Aside from just the whole extra space thing and the 3" extra headroom, it would solve the problem of the queen size bed. That sounds like a no brainer all around.

EXCEPT the extra 3" reflects on the outside height and makes it too tall for covered parking. Covered parking at home seems like a good idea on so many levels - A to protect it and B to keep it out of sight in the neighborhood.

I can possibly squeak it in without a roof vent which buys me back 2" of height. How critical is a roof vent? How about a "top of the rear door vent" or "top of the sidewall vent"?

If I didn't get a roof vent and possibly air it down a touch when I get home (worst case, might not need that) I could keep my covered parking.

Also, will the "new off the lot" suspension sag down a bit once you start loading it up/building it?

Last ditch hope - is there a such thing as a removable roof vent or some way I could work up a quick release mechanism?

[cornfused]

I would guess if you put two or more of these on the walls near the ceiling they would work ok.

[lrrowe]

Not sure how it would work, but it looks like it has possibilities. I am anxious to hear the comments from others.

[khigh]

I would guess if you put two or more of these on the walls near the ceiling they would work ok.

Thanks - yeah - I'd been doing it all online but broke down and talked to a guy yesterday about it.

He calls those side vents, He seems to think that two up high in the rear and one low down in the bottom of the rv door would be a fine substitute for a roof vent. If I get exactly 8' and no more, I can pull it off. I was out measuring yesterday and my clearances range from about 8' 1/4" to 8' 1/2". I'm even going to have to trim some siding off where they brought it about an inch below the framing. But really it seems like covered parking is just the best thing in the world on so many levels. Always in the shade, you never challenge the watertightnness, it's out of sight, easier to access on a day to day basis to check the status of, use for storage, run the A/C every so often.

I think I'm going to go for the 6x12. Literally by the time I add height to the 5x10 and buy the RV door (the 6' comes with it, it costs less to start with the 6x12

Here's where I am so far

6x12 Single Axle $1950
Jacks $60
Haulstar Options: $450
(HS) - .030 Aluminum Exterior - PEWTER
(HS) - 16" OC Floors
(HS) - Radial Tires
(HS) - Therma-Cool Ceiling Liner
(HS) - Aluminum Corner Trim - REAR
(HS) - Full LED Exterior Including Tail Lights
(HS) - Wide 3" Bottom Trim W/ Reflector Tape
(HS) - All Exposed Wiring Under Frame In Conduit
(HS) - *Square Tube Framing On ALL Units*
Ceiling Insulation $180
Wall insulation $240
Ceiling Vinyl $180
Rear side-opening Barn Doors $0
V Nose $0
Roof Vent DELETE $0
Screws in interior Plywood $0

Total $3060

That doesn't include vents or windows. I'm thinking two windows - one centered over the rear bed on one side and one vertical in the RV door. I think I'm going to do my own electric. Their lowest package is way overkill - starts at like $600 and has something like a so amp service.

Anything I'm glaringly missing?

[NO David!]

Roof vent:
I had them delete the side vents as I thought they really only helped while moving. I can't imagine not having the roof vent to exhaust with the fantastic fan. On your covered storage quest, consider the tongue height and towing angle, backing in, you may not have as much clearance as you think. I ordered two roof vents, then installed the fantastic fan in place of one. After reading the instructions for the fan, you actually don't use the other roof vent. Hot days, open a window on the cool side (or shade side) of the trailer, turn on the fan and you're set. Cool nights, reverse the fan if you wish.

This user had a clearance issue for his build and came up with a unique way to handle it. Probably not realistic for frequent use, but it is an idea. Scroll down to bottom of page three for his garage fit solution.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=45197&start=30

RV door:
Ours was installed at the factory, I think I would have hated to do it myself. It had the opaque glass window already in which included a vertical opening glass and screen, plus a full door screen which can stay in place while the exterior door is open. This is similar to what is on many motor homes/campers. Didn't know I would use the full door screen as much as I do.

Step:
How about a single folding step under the RV door? We chose standard spring axle for extra ground clearance on our adventures and the step is really handy. Not sure if it is needed on a drop axle setup?

Door latches:
Choose some type of door latches that will hold the barn doors and RV door in the open position when needed. Ours has the simple T-bar latches, but they are really handy, especially in windy conditions, or if not leveled up yet.

[khigh]

Thanks for the post! I really am in the right place for getting this all figured out.

I see what you're saying now about the angle. If the tongue angle were the least bit down, it would kick up the rear over my clearance. Even if I painstakingly set the angle, the load in the truck would ultimately affect it. I'm HOPING I can maneuver it into its spot with a hand dolly (can most people do that?), but I'm not counting on it.

Thanks for the link to the build. I hadn't even heard of drop axles. I knew there were torsion axles on the site I've been concentrating those, but no mention of drop. I've emailed them to see if they do drop it. If not, I might have to start over with a Lark dearer instead of what I believe is a Diamond dealer.

If I can get 3" out of the axles, I'll add a roof vent over the axles, because right over the axle will always be the proper height with the ends being the wild card.

That build had RV door included on all 6' trailers sio it wasn't on the list - but that's a definite.

That's a good idea about the step, but I'm always suspect of them. I'd personally rather bring one from home if I need one at all.

[James06]

I have a 7X12 v nose and can move it easily with a dolly as long as the ground is fairly level. As far as a step goes, we just use a $10 step stool from Walmart.

[khigh]

I'm out of the frying pan and into the fire looking at changing dealers/manufacturers.

That Lark one (trailershowroom I think it is) says their 6x12 is 90" with drop axle and no vent, but only 6' interior. At that point I'd about rather go with a 6'6" interior and call the exterior 8' which puts me back at the same as the other. Heck I have a basement room in my house finished at 6'6". It's no picnic, but it's not horrible.

As long as I can move it with the dolly I should be OK, or maybe rig up a front hitch on the front of my lawn tractor - I think the height would be more consistent than trying to put it in with my truck which would be in wildly varying states of loaded or not. the tractor would help, too, if I needed to air down which would make the hand dolly difficult.

Thanks for all the info and ideas!

[hankaye]

khigh, Howdy;

>>> I think the height would be more consistent than trying to put it in with my truck which would be in wildly varying states of loaded or not. the tractor would help, too, if I needed to air down which would make the hand dolly difficult.

Thanks for all the info and ideas!

You'll need to sift through this post to see how he got his into the garage, tiny wheels an tires. Just passing along an idea...
gallery/album.php?album_id=1194

hank

[lrrowe]

Thanks Hank. I remembered this one, but could not find it. Also there is another post where one member made a small wheel out of steel plate to achieve the same result. If I find it, I will post the link.

[khigh]

Thanks for the link - that's similar to something that was linked earlier where the guy made metal disks.

I think I'd be too lazy to bolt on the alternate thing and just drop the hubs onto wheel dollies of I were going that route, which hopefully I won't have to.

[lrrowe]

I understand that.
Anyway, I found the steel wheel link.

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=49265&p=925466&hilit=Steel+wheel#p925466

[khigh]

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on my build.

What's the difference between these two things?

30 Amp Breaker Box with Lifeline 110 Volt ( Includes cable hatch ) $145.00
30 Amp Breaker Box with Motor Base Plug 110 Volt ( Lifeline not available ) $170.00

I'm thinking I'm going to be mostly dry camping with a generator, but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot if there's a hookup, which is why I'm not going with just the 15 amp cord.

I don't think it can mean what I think it means - I'm picturing a cable hatch would be a recessed box they'd have to build into the trailer, which should be more expensive.