FlyBye's 7x16 Build

[aggie79]

So you got your blue tape and a HF tape measure and faith. That's all ya need. A little give, a little take and the ability to learn, and maybe some hand tools, you got it. It's not all about the destination, it's the journey you will remember. That's where the growth takes place. ... ...

McDave

I agree! Thinking back, as much as we like camping I enjoyed building my teardrop equally as much. I also built on a cash flow basis which slowed things down somewhat but I didn't have to worry later about debt.

This forum and Youtube are amazing to find missing gaps of knowledge or skills on how to do things you've never done before.

[FlyBye]

Who among us knows the proper way to have a 120 volt, 20 amp recessed receptacle on the wall of your cargo camper when you only have 1/2 inch between the walls to work with? I have seen the 1 inch single gang boxes and even some round 1/2 inch enclosures that accept wires through the back but not the sides. That 12-2 does not I know it, can be done and is being done, I'm just not aware of the hardware to "get-r-done". If you know, your expertise would be extremely appreciated.

Build Update:
Nothing much to show, I got about 70-75% of the trim off the plywood. It's a slow, monotonous procedure to insure I don't "snap, crackle or pop" the boards so I will hopefully be able to reuse them.

[McDave]

I placed my outlets in cabinet faces, and in the 45deg "chase" I built to house wiring etc. and overcome the rounded corners found on the Pace and some other brands. I also have one attached to a 25'cord that I coil up and keep under the cabinet where the power center is housed. It is on it's own breaker. Look at the area where the taillights are, the frame of the rear doors/ramp. you may find the depth needed there.

McDave

[McDave]

Here is a possible solution.
https://www.rvwholesalers.com/parts/pro ... 1wQAvD_BwE

and some more,
https://www.rvwholesalers.com/parts/t/c ... les?page=2

you may have to "shim" out with a 1" thick trim plate between the face plate and the interior wall?
just brainstorming,

McDave

[FlyBye]

Who among us knows the proper way to have a 120 volt, 20 amp recessed receptacle on the wall of your cargo camper when you only have 1/2 inch between the walls to work with? I have seen the 1 inch single gang boxes and even some round 1/2 inch enclosures that accept wires through the back but not the sides. That 12-2 does not I know it, can be done and is being done, I'm just not aware of the hardware to "get-r-done". If you know, your expertise would be extremely appreciated.

Well... I would like to announce that the space between my trailer wall just grew another 1/2 inch now making it a complete 1 inch space between the walls... But I'm afraid you would know that scenario is highly unlikely! I could offer some theories in physics that would suggest the expansion and contraction of nano science that only Elmer Fudd could totally explain and understand..., But I bet that 78% of this forum's members have multiple PhD's in Physics... or I could fess up!

As desirable as several of the first two options look to me... I choose to fess up! Because of the heat outside, my wife and I have been waiting until evening to do any work inside the trailer. Cooler temps, darker outside and limited light inside the trailer are the root causes for my mis-reading the measurements. I wasn't using my reading glasses which I guess contributed, but totally "my bad"! I was in a hurry and since I wasn't cutting anything (yet) I made a bad read on the tape measure. When I went out in day light, it was clear as day... I must be blind as a bat! The space between the walls is 1 inch! :-)

Anyway, Thanks for trying to help me through this dilemma. Any future posts will be added after consulting someone with better vision during daylight hours!

[McDave]

It's cool. We knew what you meant. That's the same inch we all had to deal with.
On the plus side, you are already learning. Learned how to read a tape, and it didn't cost ya a dime. Could'a been worse...
Listen, here is another ad for the same 20amp outlet. Apparently the people who write these ads can't read a tape either.
I believe what they are trying to say is the depth overall is 1.6", that would work with 1" walls plus interior plywood. These don't require a stud to mount to, which is nice.

http://www.globalrvsupply.com/rv-recept ... er-19-1681

McDave

[featherliteCT1]

It's cool. We knew what you meant. That's the same inch we all had to deal with.
On the plus side, you are already learning. Learned how to read a tape, and it didn't cost ya a dime. Could'a been worse...
Listen, here is another ad for the same 20amp outlet. Apparently the people who write these ads can't read a tape either.
I believe what they are trying to say is the depth overall is 1.6", that would work with 1" walls plus interior plywood. These don't require a stud to mount to, which is nice.

http://www.globalrvsupply.com/rv-recept ... er-19-1681

McDave

McDave, thanks for the clarification. I too am looking for a "thin" receptacle box. When I first glanced at the ad, I dismissed the product thinking that it was way to deep. The verbiage is still ambiguous but if it is actually 1.6" deep (which I suspect it is) , that would be great.

[FlyBye]

Well I'd hope to be finished with the insulation and wiring by now, but the incredible heat, limited time and know how still has me plugging away looking like I've just started. This stage is slow and monotonous for me, but I know it will be worth it when completed. I have included two photos that I took today. Each individual section has to be measured and cut accordingly... I know because I found out the hard way!

I'm using 1.5 inch insulation on the ceiling (R-7.5) and 1 inch on the walls (R-5). It is the Owens Corning XPS Foamular150 Rigid Insulation.

Insulation Progress I (October 10).jpg (156.6 KiB) Viewed 10371 times

Insulation Progress II (October 10).jpg (132.92 KiB) Viewed 10371 times

[hankaye]

FlyBye, Howdy;

What ya have so far is lookin' good!

hank

[FlyBye]

It's been slow going this last month. A little here and a little there. I sometimes wonder if I will ever get the insulation stage completed...
But then I remember the famous quote by the Indian with the rock candy in the movie The Outlaw Josey Wales, "...endeavor to persevere". And that is what I reckon I'll do... by golly....... (wait for it)...... (spit)!

I got all the rigid xps insulation put up with the exception of one section in the rear. I needed one more 1 inch sheet before finishing. I picked it up tonight but haven't installed it yet. Hopefully tomorrow night I fill in any gaps that may be present with some of that "Great Stuff" expanding foam insulation. I got the dense version.

The next step will be the electrical. Fortunately, I got a friend from Church that has some working knowledge of the topic that should be able to help me some.

Will It Ever Get Finished.jpg (192.18 KiB) Viewed 10257 times

Insulation Almost Completed.jpg (89.98 KiB) Viewed 10257 times

[McDave]

"I got this piece of rock candy. It's not for eating, just for looking through..."
Here is another famous line,... "You can have it cheap, you can have it fast, you can have it good. Pick one."

These things do take time, and even more to really do it right, but it will be worth it.

McDave

[FlyBye]

Yahoo! I'm finally finished with all the insulation and filling noticeable gaps with that expanding foam insulation stuff. That expanding foam stuff is for the birds... messy, messy, messy! What a good feeling it is to have that part over with. Yahoo!

[flboy]

Yahoo! I'm finally finished with all the insulation and filling noticeable gaps with that expanding foam insulation stuff. That expanding foam stuff is for the birds... messy, messy, messy! What a good feeling it is to have that part over with. Yahoo!

Way to go! Feels good to get that done so now you can put the walls back on and start building out the interior. Nice work!

I see you are using the Blue tape to kind of size up things on the floor space in the intended locations. I did the same thing. I had to repeat when I put the flooring down; however. I actually built right over the blue tape. I spent a lot of time measuring out things relative to wall studs and etc., so it was my guide when it came to screwing things down to the floor.

[FlyBye]

Way to go! Feels good to get that done so now you can put the walls back on and start building out the interior. Nice work!

I'm wondering if it would be faster to just put the walls back up loose and run the electrical cable down where I can do an "old work" cut out of the ply-board, or just go ahead and make everything a "new work" by attaching the electrical boxes to the metal studs. That seems like it would be time consuming since no wooden studs are used. Any thoughts?

I see you are using the Blue tape to kind of size up things on the floor space in the intended locations. I did the same thing. I had to repeat when I put the flooring down; however. I actually built right over the blue tape. I spent a lot of time measuring out things relative to wall studs and etc., so it was my guide when it came to screwing things down to the floor.

I was planning on having a "floating floor" using residential wood planks that join together to allow for the expanding and contracting of the wood, but I wonder if there would be any undesirable buckling of the floor by screwing a few items down. I would like to screw down the beds, rest room walls and the tie downs for the refridgeorator. How are your floor planks behaving as regard to movement and buckling?

[flboy]

I did my electrical outlets the "old work" way and cutout the box holes after the boards were back up. I did have the wires in the walls ready and in place to pull into the box, so is was just the box. The box flanges attach right to the plywood easily (at least in my case it was). I only had 5 110VAC outlets in any case.. so not a lot of effort. 2 of the outlets are in the appliance stack-up cabinet where the AC and Fridge plug in, so I mounted the boxes on the walls instead of flush. Just the kitchen and bathroom were flush to the walls.


I'd be careful with the laminate floors for the reasons you mentioned. I was going to do something similar, but screwing the walls down over the top of them doesn't allow them to float and they may buckle. If you want to use laminate, I'd build the walls and then put the laminate down as you would in a house with existing walls so it floats. More work for sure... but I'd be worried about the buckling otherwise.

I did not end up installing floor planks. I went with the tread plate textured rubber floor. I am really liking it. Easy to clean... no worries about water or buckling. I think it looks nice and fits the style of the toy hauler. I do have a couple throw carpet mats I use in the bathroom and kitchen area... they are easily cleaned and look nice. I put the rubber floor down before I built the walls... easy install (as I remember... except for the glue fumes).

I installed it on the ramp as well which is my back wall.