Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Tue Oct 27, 2020 6:26 pm**

Thanks Don and Rob,

Don - I think the awning mount is going to work out really well. It'll be pretty solid once I buy some metal to span over to the opposing brackets. Concerning the door, I didn't have the patience to wait for a custom order from the factory, so I just bought what was on the sales lot. Trying to bang out this project while I'm still furloughed from work. Probably will get it finished just in time to go back, LOL.

Rob - Yeah a few screw points poked through the 3/4" plywood. Just ground them off with a grinder. The plywood decking will get covered vinyl snap-together flooring.

Fred

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2020 10:36 am**

VegasBell wrote:I've lurked on this forum for years with the intent of one day building a cargo conversion or a teardrop. Since I'm not working at the moment (due to COVID), I decided now might be a good time to take on a project like this. First of all, I would like to extend a HUGE note of thanks to all that participate and share their knowledge and experiences on TnTTT. I HAVE LEARNED A LOT! And I'm sure that I will learn more, especially now. Second, I'm terrible at keeping a consistent journal, so I'll make no promises.

So here's the skinny. I purchased an Interstate trailer (Trailer's Plus) a couple of weeks, 6X12', regular height, standard door, rear door ramp. It seems like a well built trailer. I realize that these are utility trailers banged out by the hundreds and not built for show. So far, I've only found a few gaps, but not a big deal to close up. BTW, we camped in a 13' Scamp for years, so I have a little bit of experience with small trailers.

Below is my concept for the layout. Maybe the biggest difference is putting the bed at the nose of the trailer. It'll take a full-size mattress that folds up to reveal a bench/couch for day use with drawers underneath. When folded down, should be just enough room to get out the door for midnight potty trips. I'm utilizing the pull down ramp as outdoor living/grilling space (weather permitting). There'll be a fold down dinette table, and what's not shown are a couple of folding chairs for sitting. I decided to forgo the expense of a 3-way fridge and try a couple of "Yeti" style ice chest. I use a Yeti for camping and can get five days of cold space if I'm mindful. If they don't work out, I'll pony up the money for a Dometic at a later date. We live in the Southwest, so as most of you may know, very few campgrounds have hookups, and I personally prefer boon docking, anyway.

Well, I've already started on the initial teardown and insulation. I'll post a few pics in a fews days. Maybe this will be fun!

Fred

That's a pretty cool design, I like how you've worked out the bed fold.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Wed Nov 11, 2020 8:41 pm**

The cabinetry is finally starting to take shape. (Still have knobs, pulls and travel locks to install, however.) The big cabinet will hold a couple of ice chest. Going that route until I have the money to buy a fridge (maybe.)

The big accomplishment is getting the sink installed and the drain and faucet plumbed. No leaks except for the fill port for the fresh water tank where the 1-1/2" hose connects to the fill port at the tank. On my first try, I wrapped the tank's stub with plenty of plastic tape and used 2 hose clamps, but still get a slow drip if I fill the tank completely. Today, I squeezed in a fat bead of silicon and reinstalled the 1-1/2" hose for the fill tank and used the 2 clamps again. I haven't totally filled the tank again, but I'm hoping the silicon will seal the drip. I'm almost certain the leak if coming from the hose connection and not the tank itself.

Any ideas on stopping the leak?

Fred

Posted: **Sat Dec 05, 2020 8:34 pm**

Man is it ever slow going, but I'm getting there.

Handles and pulls are made. That's mesquite wood from a tree that fell in the backyard years ago. I saved a straight section of trunk with the idea that one it would make nice drawer pulls.

All of the utility work is finished, plumbing, propane and electrical. I'm about 90% finished with making a tongue box. I'll post pics in a few days.

The big goal for the week is to get the table and bed installed, then take it out for a spin. I want to bounce it around town for a bit and see if anything breaks loose.

One more cabinet to build, a screen door and some finishing work.

Fred

Posted: **Sun Dec 06, 2020 10:47 pm**

Nice work with the cabinetry, fit and finish of all....

Posted: **Tue Dec 08, 2020 6:19 am**

I love the clear finish on all of the cabinetry. Really old in our cabinet shop painting everything white it really dark stains.
Well done

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:13 pm**

Thanks for the kudos, Pete.

Yeah Dave, I don't have a sprayer, so finishing cabinets is a real pain. So for this project, I used pre-finished birch. I like the look of it, but the outer veneer is paper thin, so I'm concerned about how it'll hold up.

Fred

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2020 2:46 pm**

Some updates...

The trailer is NOT finished, yet (are they ever???), but it IS functional. This past couple of weeks, I've installed the bed/mattress, dining table and tongue box that houses the propane tank. That also means that all of the utilities are working, except for one more light that I have to install. I also install a electrical shore connection, circuit breaker, and one GFIC outlet. (That's working fine except for one problem that I'm making a separate post, because I'm not sure why it's a problem.)

So what's left? I have one last cabinet to make. It's a wardrobe cabinet for the back corner. (There will also be a sub-cabinet at the bottom that will hold the porta-potty.) I have to finish the back deck with outdoor carpet, make a screen door for the rear exit, and install the vinyl flooring. However, I'm sure that won't be the end of it, but it'll do for now.

Fred

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2020 2:48 pm**

Here's the tongue box. Nothing fancy.

Fred

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2020 3:10 pm**

Finally, the big day (but not the biggest day.)

I hitched up the trailer and took it for a drive around town. Just wanted to see how it handled and if anything shook loose. After an hour of driving a couple of rough roads, railroad crossings and 20 miles of freeway, I'm happy to report that all is fine!

Now for my curious problem... when I hooked up the 7-blade connector to the my truck, the truck's 30A tow-circuit fuse blew. I hooked it a few weeks before after I swapped out the 4-pin factory connector for the 7-blade connector, because I added backup lights. Everything worked fine at that time.

What I did in between was add a 120V shore connection, breaker panel and one GFIC outlet. I also grounded the breaker panel and shore connection to the trailer's frame. The 120V circuit seems fine. My tester shows the correct lights and the GFIC works fine. Of-course the trailer running lights are also grounded to the frame. When I disconnected the 120V ground wire from the frame, I got my running lights back and the truck's 30A tow-circuit is fine. (120V shore connection was DISCONNECTED when I hooked up the trailer to the truck.)

My question is why would grounding the 120V shore connection to trailer's frame blow a fuse in the tow vehicle?

Fred

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2020 1:06 pm**

Sounds like power is traveling back to the truck. I always disconnect the 7- plug from the vehicle when parked.

From what I've been told, you dont need the ground to the frame in 110.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2020 4:59 pm**

Modstock,
Hi, I have an idea that could be causing your electrical problem. The frame should be bonded to the equipment grounding buss in the breaker panel. The ground shouldn't have any current running through it except when you have a fault. I suggest that you check in the breaker panel to see if there is a green screw in the neutral buss, that is the bonding screw to tie the ground and neutral together. In your application they shouldn't be tied together, that is supposed to be done at the service. If the screw is turned in, remove the screw and see if the problem still exists.

good luck,
Dan

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2020 5:07 pm**

Modstock,
This is a follow up, I just got a better look at your breaker setup. I can't see any point for bonding the neutral and ground in your panel. What I said in the other post doesn't apply to what I'm seeing here. Just make sure the neutral isn't bonded to the box. Sorry for confusing the issue.

Dan

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2020 7:50 pm**

You mean VegasBell. His trailer.
I just passed the question along to a friend . Curious since im about to add shore power too.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2020 11:06 pm**

Thanks for the response.

120 volt shore power was disconnected before I hooked up the trailer to the truck.

Could it have something to do with the GFIC outlet that I installed in the trailer?

I think I'll just pull the ground wire from the breaker box to the frame.

Fred

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Re: Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion