7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

I have been shopping entry lights. They seem to range from $3 to $50. Which one did you use? Is it waterproof or do you think it matters? By the way I am enjoying your build. I am looking forward to your plumbing tie ins. I have all this ahead of me soon.

Thanks!

I found the light on E-bay, but you can find them on Amazon also. It does not have a switch built in. I want to be able to turn on off inside only, so I am wiring with a switch. I paid about $15.00. Time will tel if it leaks. So far so good.

[flboy]

I took time out from finishing taping off and sealing the insulation today to cut the last major holes in the outside. I put this off as I was real nervous about the size and placement. I finally built up the nerve to cut the big hole! Today I installed the Emergency Exit/ Dining Table window. Also put the right side gravity feed water inlet, and the External TV antenna Jack in (now's the time to put the wires in the walls! :-)

You can see in the last picture, I have quite a few wires installed. The bundle on the left is the 110VAC and the Bundle on the right is all the 12VDC and low voltage wires. They are all home run to the place where the electrical cabinet will be and in the walls/ceiling out of sight. The solar will drop in up top and the batteries will be below.

I was going to start paneling tomorrow, but I just realized if I am going to take the floor up to paint the chassis, I need to do that first. Also, while the floor is up, I need to finally bolt in the tanks. I've been putting that one off.



It is really a good idea to have a second way out in case the door get's barricaded, jammed, or something strange like that. I hopefully will be able to find a screen for this window. This was an E-bay auction window ($8.00) and there was no screen. It opens nicely and is also hinged so you can climb out of it.

[McDave]

That emergency egress window is an excellent idea.
Like I've always said "Safety Third"

McDave

[flboy]

Got the floors over the tanks out tonight. You can see where the tanks will go. I kind of have them set in there. I'll paint up the frame a little better, build the holding brackets and close it back up tomorrow if all goes well.

I do need to move the vent and intake over on the Gray water tank. I'll just cut off the existing risers , glue over a piece of plastic materiel and the cut new ones. The tanks aren't under pressure so no problem doing that.



You can see the gray water tank right under the outside shower housing which will open up underneath the vanity in the bathroom where hopefully I'll have enough room to connect this all up and make it work. I'll bring the kitchen sink around under the stove and tie into the shower drain.

[flboy]

That emergency egress window is an excellent idea.
Like I've always said "Safety Third"

McDave

I needed a window there anyhow and I had this from an old E-bay auction win and I never installed it in my old CTC...So here it is. :-) I am trying to find a screen for it. That would be super!

[McDave]

If you got some dimensions I'll keep my eyes open for one. Inside screen?

McDave

[flboy]

It is a 30x20 but I am not sure if the screen is special for the emergency exit window versus a normal 30x20. In any case, thanks.

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[aggie79]

Great progress!

I remember that, when I built my teardrop and took a few days off, I really was able to knock out a lot more work than working a few hours at night or on the weekend.

Thanks for posting pics of the plumbing install. Although I'm neither an electrician or a plumber, I can get my head around electrical but plumbing throws me off. Slowly, thanks to folks like you, I'm getting an understanding of an RV plumbing system.

On my teardrop, I started with a basic shape and winged it as I went along. If/when I do a CTC I see that I'm going to have to plan it out before I get started.

Take care,
Tom

[flboy]

Great progress!

I remember that, when I built my teardrop and took a few days off, I really was able to knock out a lot more work than working a few hours at night or on the weekend.

Thanks for posting pics of the plumbing install. Although I'm neither an electrician or a plumber, I can get my head around electrical but plumbing throws me off. Slowly, thanks to folks like you, I'm getting an understanding of an RV plumbing system.

On my teardrop, I started with a basic shape and winged it as I went along. If/when I do a CTC I see that I'm going to have to plan it out before I get started.

Take care,
Tom

Plumbing isn't too bad. There are a few tricks to make it work right with the holding tanks. Definitely needs to be vented correctly with Air Admittance Valves integrated with the sink plumbing. It will "gurgle" and make weird noises otherwise. With my Electrical Engineering background... the electric is the easy part for me too... You notice all the wires I got.... probably some I don't even need. :-)

Now's the time to get the empty cargo trailer and start a little bit at a time. I sold my old one, so if I want to go camping this summer (in a trailer) , I have to get it done! :-)

I installed some holding tanks today. Pics to follow.

[flboy]

Well the tanks are fastened in. I have some 2" grommets arriving via Amazon tomorrow that I need to install on the grey water tank. I am moving the inlet and vents over. I'll also seal over the two existing holes where I cut the pipe flanges off.

I should be able to close up the floor early tomorrow and start getting the paneling back in. Yay! These tanks took a little longer to install than I expected, but it is my first time and I have no idea what I am doing.



The tanks all had the "ledge" on the end to hang the tanks. That made it easier to mount. I painted all the hardware up well to help keep the rust away... even though I used stainless hardware. :-)



I added a center brace on a "hanger" this evening after I thought I was done. . I didn't like the way the tanks flexed a bit when full (filled them up to test). Over time, I suppose it would stress the plastic and lead to cracking. It was easy thing to do while the floor is out and cheap insurance.

[flboy]

There are the tanks.... all in. I still have to connect up the external hookups.. but that is the easy part. I was noticing how easy it would be to insulate the floor. I may have to glue some styrofoam panels on there before the winter.


A closeup of the blackwater tank vent tube. I'll connect this up to a 45deg. take off to the wall and then up an d out the roof (yes, one more hole I forgot about in the ceiling). I'll cut the hole for the toilet when the walls and etc. are in and I have the exact placement.



Front is all taped up. I need to do this to the other two sides and then it is on to the finish work. Paneling, walls, etc..

[flboy]

Now that I have cut a few holes for windows and etc. in my trailer, I wanted to pass on a few things I learned that seems to work well for me. I am always concerned about alignment and cutting the hole too big. What I did in each case was make a cardboard cutout and made sure the window fit it well. Then I measured two points from the roof line to establish the top line of the window is straight... then I taped up the template on the side making sure the top line is on the mark. After that, I used a sharpie marker to trace the outline from the template then remove it. Next, take some painter's tape and make the outline so the saw doesn't scratch the paint. Run the saw (jigsaw with fine metal blade) until you hit the metal studs (if your window is wider than the space between studs. Note, to start the saw, drill pilot holes for the saw inside the markings. You can do that in a few places if need be to get around the stud(s). When everything is cut, go on the inside with a cutoff tool and cut the stud and finish off the last bit of aluminum skin. It seemed to work good for me. I hope this may help someone to get over the fear of cutting the holes. That was huge for me.. I was very anxious about it.... I recommend the template method.

[Iconfabul8]

Looking good! So I assume you are elevating the shower to allow for a p-trap, Hepvo or are you going to use a Trap Guard or variant?

[flboy]

Looking good! So I assume you are elevating the shower to allow for a p-trap, Hepvo or are you going to use a Trap Guard or variant?

Thanks! I have been going at it this week. It will slow down again as I have to go back to work on Monday. I'll just have evenings and weekends again. I did knock some hard stuff out this week. I got alot done.

I am going to elevate the shower about 4 to 6 inches. The Gray water tank is not beneath the shower so I cannot drop right in with a one way valve of some sort. I need the trap and then some elevation so gravity can work. Also, I will bring the kitchen sink plumbing over and tie in underneath the shower.

[McDave]

Hey Don,
I would take a good long look at the Hepvo's. You may not have to elevate because you can go horizontal at the floor level (outside) and dump in at top of shallow end side. (not the dump end, although I don't know if it would matter) Also they work as air admittance valve. If you can get .5" drop per foot or so of pipe that should be plenty. Just keep the Hepvo within 6ft of the fixture you are draining. Food for thought.

McDave

PS. Nice clean, professional install on the tanks. Keep your eye on Tommy, the black tank is not the place to 1/2 a** it. Just too awful to think about a failure in that system. Ugggg.. You would probably just have to leave it in Dade Co and hope someone steals it.
But that's cool Y'all have stuff in common, Maybe someone to ride with.

Baton down the hatches, big rain headed your way, supposedly.