Don & Karen's 6 x 12 Deep Vee Front CT

[MtnDon]

This setup is a real water saver, more so in some applications. I converted our old Class C many years ago and have the same thing in our off grid cabin where water is a premium as well.


There are three clamp/crimp types of fittings and bands. One is a solid ring of blackened copper or brass. Then there are the stainless steel bands I use. The two systems use different tools. I found my S/S crimp tool on ebay many years ago. The S/S band tool does not have to encircle the band and pex tube; the solid band type has jaws that fit around the pipe much like a wire connector crimper. I find the S/S type tool easier to use in some close spaces.

The 'cadillac' of the tool systems is Wirsbo, now Uponer. Where the first two type use bands that are crimped to hold the pex to the fitting tight, the Uponer system tool expands the end of the pex tubing. You then slip the fitting in; their fittings are not interchangable with the other two. The pex tube then 'relaxes' and closes on the fitting. The joint is then finished off with a slide over clamp cap that the tool also is used for. It is virtually impossible for the Wirsbo/Uponer to not seal well. The tools for the solid band type and the stainless steel rings need to have their clamp/crimp jaws calibrated from time to time. But the Uponer tool is many X the price.

Sharkbite type fittings are very handy; very easy to remove and re-use. Good for small one or two fitting jobs.

[MtnDon]

Photo of the A/C rack installed.



The funky piece of aluminum is an angle secured to both rack and the A/C. There are also a couple of screws from the side angles to the A/C "box". Be careful when ya' drill holes; don't want to hear any pffftt's. I should have been smarter and welded a tab in place.

I wanted to spread out the load stress on the door. Not shown is a latch I used on the inside to take the sag load off the hinges when the door is closed. Pictures if I rember tomorrow. Two bolts that secure it are visible on the upper non hinged side of the door.



Microwave installed on its shelf with a cam lock strap to help hold it in place.


I put the fridge in it's place today; need to make a bracket to secure it. Maybe tomorrow.



The eagle eyed observer will note a change in the pex line to the hot water bypass valve. It's an old recycled valve and has a very slight drip I can not remedy. The trial repair called for cutting the pex and I used a sharkbite from the plumbing odds 'n' ends box. Tonight I got a brand new valve and that ease of removing the sharkbite will come in handy tomorrow.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

MtnDon

Is it getting hot yet ? I can't wait to see how your AC dose running wide open!
I would guess you could hit 60 inside if parked in 100 deg F and full sun
Assuming your AC is one of those that goes to 60F - mine and many stop at 70F

I may try some flex 100 watt panels as they are only 3lbs each 22" x 42" cost $200

Cheers Jerry

PS
I'm also waiting for Jim & Chilly Willy to tell us how many dogs it takes to
Keep warm in a CT at minus 10 or -20 deg.

[MtnDon]

The weather has been hitting high 80's, 89 one day I think it was. Our A/C has a lowest setting of 64. It went there and held. I still need to insulate the inside of the rear doors.

[lrrowe]

[quote="MtnDon"]Photo of the A/C rack installed.

[url=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1044sml_zps3a313dc3.jpg.html][/

MtnDon, I am wondering. Will you building a traveling "box" for the unit as you travel or cold weather camp?

Your creativeness continues to impress me.

Bob

[MtnDon]

Eventually Bob. Not high on the list right now as we're into warm, warmer and hot!

[lrrowe]

Makes sense. Mow while the hay is high.
Bob

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

The weather has been hitting high 80's, 89 one day I think it was. Our A/C has a lowest setting of 64. It went there and held. I still need to insulate the inside of the rear doors.

MtnDon

YOUR - DA - MAN
XOXOXOXO !!!

I just put a 1.5" sheet Dow Blue on the door & covered with 1/8" paneling

I just got a few new Ideas for OTTCT 3.0 on the drawing board & that should have all the problems solved.
100% solar Free heating & cooling ZERO F to 110F - NO problem.
I will contact you direct after I think about it some more.

[MtnDon]

1 foot thick insulation on all 6 sides of the box....

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

MtnDon

You need this so we can get her down to 50F or lower , maybe even 38 deg.



http://storeitcold.com/


http://storeitcold.com/installation.html



http://plantsforhumanhealth.ncsu.edu/2012/08/20/pack-n-cool/

[MtnDon]

I guess it is safe to say that is really cool!

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

MtnDon

According to this company if you have 4" foam insulation on all 6 sides with a 18,000 btu AC
Then you should be able to hit 34- 36 deg F , so YES

-You would have the Coolest Trailer on this site -

No doubts or arguments about it !!

[Rainier70]

With most insulation it's a compromise between the thickness and how much heat it retains, but there comes a point where you get little to no additional heat retention. It is just thicker.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Cindy

As a former insulation contractor I beg to differ with your opinion,
I'm pretty sure you won't reach that point until you hit min R60 - over 10" foam insulation.


With most insulation it's a question of cost PERIOD !! Nothing else.
None of them get even half ars close to your standard , still today 90% all houses have R13 walls,
R30-38 attic, R2 doors and windows. Basically they suck !!!!
AC are min SEER 13 - the best are SEER 28 now.
If we wanted we could build houses that use 70% energy -
It's all about the cost

[MtnDon]

The weather station down the road recorded a high of 92 F today. My local sensor showed a high of 97 F on the north side of the house. The trailer A/C was on most of the afternoon. I had the temperature set for 68 F inside and it had no problem maintaining that. It cycled on and off but I was busy working and have no idea of the duty cycle.

This A/C has an "eco" setting where the entire unit shuts off when the preset is reached. Normal cycle has the fan running all the time. I'm not real impressed as the temperature wanders hi to low more widely between operating cycles. It did seem to stay off for extended periods though. If you were plugged into the grid with an electric meter spinning maybe it would save money. But I'd only use it if I was trying to maintain some level of cool while away from it.

Tomorrow may reach 95 F.
~~~~~~~

Re insulation. Over the past couple of years I upgraded the wall insulation from R-11 fiberglass batts (in 2x4 stud walls, built 1985), I added 2 1/2" of mostly polyiso foam to the exterior. R-value increased to approximately R-28. Air infiltration and exfiltration was reduced and that raises the effective R-amount, sort of, not really but reducing air exchange helps a lot. The new siding is installed over furring strips providing an air space between the foil faced foam and the siding. Windows were upgraded too. The attic was already at R45 more or less. I have not worked through detailed heating and cooling costs yet. Both our gas company (heat) and electric (A/C) company billings are on an annual budget plan and a quick comparison from 2011 to the past year shows a savings of a couple hundred dollars. It will eventually pay for itself, but the nice thing we have noticed is the furnace and the A/C cycle less than before and the rooms seem warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The "new " house is not so tight that we created problems with moisture. Of course being in the desert where humidity is almost always low or lower, helps with that.