7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Thanks Hank

I hope it helps someone . Alot of confusing stuff on th Web regarding this matter. Had to try for myself. Glad I did.


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[John61CT]

The Sterling 30A model does not ndicate how big the battery bank can be.. but I am assuming it makes a difference?

If the bank is FLA, GEL or LFP, go as big as you like, time it takes to recharge is the only issue, easy math there.

Same with quality AGM, except for top longevity an at least .2-.4C rate is recommended, which works out to 75-150Ah bank size.

Of course there are many other ways AGM gets lifespan shortened more drastically, so too-low a charge rate only makes a difference if they're otherwise getting optimal care.

[featherliteCT1]

Flboy,

Thanks for all your efforts documenting your electrical system.

Question: Does your Victron monitor display the actual volts of your batteries or does the monitor display the volts as adjusted for battery temperature differences?

I presume your charge controller temperature compensates and adjusts the volts accordingly; however, I am asking about the readout at the monitor. If the monitor does not display the volts as adjusted for the temperature differences, it appears that one would need to go through the effort of using a temperature adjustment chart (like the one you posted a while back) in order to ascertain the true state of charge (e.g., so as not to discharge the batteries below the desired depth of discharge).

Again, I am easily confused and still learning ... slowly but surely.

Thanks again!

[flboy]

Flboy,

Thanks for all your efforts documenting your electrical system.

Question: Does your Victron monitor display the actual volts of your batteries or does the monitor display the volts as adjusted for battery temperature differences?

I presume your charge controller temperature compensates and adjusts the volts accordingly; however, I am asking about the readout at the monitor. If the monitor does not display the volts as adjusted for the temperature differences, it appears that one would need to go through the effort of using a temperature adjustment chart (like the one you posted a while back) in order to ascertain the true state of charge (e.g., so as not to discharge the batteries below the desired depth of discharge).

Again, I am easily confused and still learning ... slowly but surely.

Thanks again!

You are welcome.

The Victron is a Battery Monitor and displays voltage as measured at the battery bank which I believe is independent of the SOC. It also displays a bunch of other parameters as well. Some are useful to me, some are not.

The Solar Charge Controller, as you suspected, has a thermocouple that I have taped to the side of one battery in the bank (assuming representative of all batteries) and it adjusts its charge appropriately for the battery temp.

As I understand it, the Victron Battery Monitor calculates the SOC by measuring and keeping track of current going in and out over time and takes that raw data and runs it through a software driven algorithm to come up with a % charge. I believe the method is referred to as a Coulomb Counter.

This is the same basic way your laptop and smartphone keep track of % of Battery.

The Victron model I have does not have an external thermocouple to attach to the battery bank, but it may be able to measure ambient temp internally and use that in some fashion (thermocouple could be embedded in the circuit card). I do not know.

[flboy]

Small project today. More maintenance than a project I suppose. After almost 3 years of exposure to the wet elements in Florida, the tongue of trailer was getting some surface rust in places where it was nicked or just thin paint. I bought some spray on VHT SP229 Rust Converter and sprayed it on. After 24 hours for it to do its thing, I sprayed on Rustoleum Rust Stop Paint. Should do the job. I think it looks better in any case.

I am going to get about 5 more cans of that VHT and do the entire frame underneath and then buy some spray on Rust Stop undercoating. The frame is starting to get some surface rust and I rather get ahead of it while it is just surface rust. Another project for a weekend in the near future.

I did paint the frame some as I installed the holding tanks, but the factories do a poor job of preparing and sealing the steel frames. I should have done this during the build, but better late than never I suppose. The rubberized undercoating will cover the exposed frame and the insulation I have underneath as well. I will probably have to jack it up a foot or so and put on stands while I work under there. There is not a lot of room.










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[featherliteCT1]

That black tongue looks a lot better. ... nice!

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Beautiful job with the painting! How did you mask off the un-painted parts?
I know how I'd do it, but would like to hear your version and some others
might like it if ya did as well.


hank

[flboy]

Thanks Hank. I just use plain old blue painter's tape. Also have a small piece of cardboard in my hand as an overspray shield where needed.

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[albertaborealis]

Hi Don
I hope to start my build on a 8.5x20 trailer that has been ordered. I will start my own thread as I get closer to that date. I have been following your posts, along with others, and gleaned a lot of useful information. I liked your solar and electrical set up. I hope to follow it fairly closely. I wonder, since the time you published your schematic, whether you had any thoughts about how you might have done things differently. I can imagine that with time and experience a person sees the possibility of improvements. Thanks again for publishing all the intriguing and valuable aspects of your build.
Richard

[flboy]

Hi Don
I hope to start my build on a 8.5x20 trailer that has been ordered. I will start my own thread as I get closer to that date. I have been following your posts, along with others, and gleaned a lot of useful information. I liked your solar and electrical set up. I hope to follow it fairly closely. I wonder, since the time you published your schematic, whether you had any thoughts about how you might have done things differently. I can imagine that with time and experience a person sees the possibility of improvements. Thanks again for publishing all the intriguing and valuable aspects of your build.
Richard

Thanks Richard. Glad to be of some help. On my electrical setup, would have done three things differently. First, I would have started out with the 4 Golf Car batteries instead of 3 12VDC batteries. The Golf Car batteries just seem so much more robust. Second, I would have started with a 2500W Pure Sine Wave Inverter instead of the 1500W. The 1500W works great, but when running the microwave (900W) and the fridge and television is on.. I feel like I am pushing it. With the larger inverter, I could also use it to run my Hot Water tank when sun is plentiful and save on propane without having to manage loads so much. Lastly (thirdly), I would have used larger 1/0 gage wires to the inverter and to couple the batteries. I used 4ga which is borderline. I ended up doubling up on 4 ga to make the 1/0 equivalent.

Aside, from those things, I am very pleased how it works and how nicely it boondocks with plenty of power and minimal use (2-3 hours/day ) of the generator when not in full sun.

I did publish a recent update to the schematic. I updated to the Victron Battery monitor (maybe that is #4. :-) ) and removed some of the other shunts I had in to monitor on cheaper voltmeters. The Victron is all you need along with the MPPT Controller.

I look forward to seeing your build.

[albertaborealis]

Hi Don
Thanks for your reply. I will certainly take the advice on the Inverter and heavier wire gauge. I was planning to use the MPPT Tristar 45A controller and a matching TS-RM-2 Meter. This remote meter checks battery voltage, temperature, etc. Thanks for confirming the importance of this.
I can understand the value of four 6v batteries. That will give me the 12v and lots of amps. The problem is that I live in Canada where these batteries are a lot more expensive than the US. I can get a 12v at 125Ah for about $260 and a 6v at 225Ah for about $214. A minimum of three 12v is $780 and four 6v is $856. If I use three 12v I get 325Ah. If I use four 6v with a combination of series/parallel connection, I get the 12v at 450Ah. That’s a lot of extra amps for only $76. I hadn’t thought that one through! If, on top of that I get a more robust system, that’s wonderful.
Don, I am glad I ran this by you. This is some solid advice. I look forward to sharing my build with you and the others. My trailer should be ready by April, but I won’t be home from overseas where I am engaged in volunteer work until just before Easter (mid-April). But meanwhile I can make my plans and order all my materials. Thanks again.
Richard

[flboy]

Doing a lot of finish painting inside the CTC. I should have done that a long time ago, but better late than never. The good part is that I have been camping in the CTC for two years now and it is like having a brand new camper. Nice clean look and the fresh smell of paint. Maybe I'll post some pics later. Not really much to see, however. I am not sure the camera will pic up on the fresh coat of paint. It is all still white but the walls are more glossy now. Before they were primer white.

Loading up for Daytona Beach Bike Week next weekend. Will be doing some urban camping behind the Daytona Speedway. I am looking forward to the Supercross Races the weekend I am there. It has been 3 years since I have seen the Supercross Races.

[flboy]

Not sure where yet, but it is going in the CTC!



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[flboy]

There it is. Now officially a toy hauler.





It is right at home with the other things on the walls.







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[Padilen]

Nice

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