Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

After reading that topic I will have to do some more evaluation on the subject. It contained lots of questions and info but no real answers except for Sikaflex LOT291. Thanks.

Sika is an often heard name. During some research I found this page:

http://www.simplicityboats.com/pl_premium.htm

While I was down the rabbit hole I found other discussions about PL too. That's what I'm going to use to seal the windows on my ToyBox. Since Polyurethane needs moisture to cure I'm going to dampen the window flanges and the walls since they're FRP.

Google 'sika alternatives' for more info.

Tom

While down the same trail as you were, I remembered I had used Eternabond roof seal tape before and it worked great. They do have a double stick putty tape.

http://www.eternabond.com/DoubleStick-p/cr-ds.htm

I am leaning this direction since I have used their product before and had good luck with it.

Eternabond sounds like a great product.

The walls of the ToyBox are FRP so I'm concerned about sealing the cut edge when I install the windows. Lapping the Eternabond over the cut edge should seal it nicely.


Thanks!

Tom

Treeview,
I contacted Eternabond about the double stick tape. I was concerned that their material information said that the product needed to be pressure rolled on both sides to activate it. This is the correspondence:

Subject
Installation Question

Message
I am planning on using the double stick tape to install my rv windows with. I will be able to roll it when I first lay it down. The second side will be a rigid window frame. Will I be able to get enough pressure to activate the second side? If not what would be the best application method for this? Thank you

(response)
We appreciate your interest in Eternabond.

You should be able to get enough pressure for the seal to work. Just remember that Eternabond is a leak repair adhesive and not a structural adhesive. This means that it will stop the leaks but don’t rely on it to hold the window physically in place.

Sincerely,
Sylvia Kuzdzal
EternaBond
847-837-9400 ext. 133
847-388-4740 fax
http://www.eternabond.com

The first part of her response answered my question. The second part is kind of a "duh", but I am sure she was trying to cover their a*s legally. Can't blame her for that, there are too many stupid people driving around with hot McDonalds coffee in their lap looking for a law suit.

NOTE: One other thing, I installed radius-corner RV windows in my cargo trailer by bedding them in a double layer of butyl RV tape and installed the trim ring on the inside. When a hot day came around, the trim rings were loose and the window were slightly off because they moved in the 1/8" extra cut all the way around. I straightened them, tightened the screws on the trim rings, trimmed off the excess butyl that had squished out around the exterior of the windows and then riveted the exterior window frames to the skin with small aluminum rivets. No leaks in four years and no more problems even on really hot days. (Aluminum windows, rivets and trailer skin, so no electrolysis/corrosion from dissimilar metals being in contact.)

ebay has good prices on rv windows but no trimrings what are some ways to mount to a cargo trailer without ring

rbs62 wrote:ebay has good prices on rv windows but no trimrings what are some ways to mount to a cargo trailer without ring

Make your own wooden trim ring for the inside:

Drill small, evenly-spaced holes in the outer ring of the window and rivet to the skin of the cargo trailer. Make a foamboard template of the perfect inside trim ring. Make a decorative trim ring out of wood for the inside. Drill evenly-spaced holes and put SS flathead screws through the wooden trim ring with SS finishing washers into the trim ring slot/groove. Use the foamboard template to get the screw holes in the right position to align with the window's slot/groove. You could use birch plywood to make the decorative trim ring, but you could use solid stock as well, just sticks. Cover the radius corners with leather. (I did around my RV door.) Super simple.

I'm in the process of installing a slider window in the side door of my cargo trailer. I'm also having to rebuild that door due to water damage. I've got the new frame and the window laid out for assembly. I'm trying to wrap my head around this, when i go to make the window cut outs in the outer skin and the interior luan can I place those cuts over the internal framing?
Or do I need to make those cuts totally clear of any framing? This crystal ball web site has been a big help to me. This is my first build so I'm sure I'll have questions in the future.

Thanks

CargoCon,

Depends on the internal structure of your side door. If it's just a solid piece of plywood or waferboard (OSB) just use a fine-tooth, long jigsaw blade and make one cut thru all of it for a perfect fit for the window. If you've got steel inside the door in the way of the cut, use a metal blade and make the window cut. Tape the aluminum skin round the cut and the bottom of your jigsaw so you don't get any scratches. Draw your cut line on the tape on the skin.


Prem

Prem wrote:NOTE: ..... trimmed off the excess butyl that had squished out around the exterior of the windows and then riveted the exterior window frames to the skin with small aluminum rivets. .....

Prem, what kind of rivets did you use? Thanks. Don

Aluminum rivets, not steel, since the window frames are also aluminum. Eliminates electrolysis, so no corrosion between dissimilar metals. Plus, steel rivets take more force to compress which could bend the aluminum frame.

I meant the method of clinching them. Pop rivets come to mind as an easy installation but the ones I am familiar with are hollow and potential sources of leaks.

I used to put a tiny ball of buytl in the rivet holes, but later I found that they don't leak on vertical surfaces, only on flat surfaces (like roofs).

Decades ago I met someone who had tried re-riveting an aluminum canoe with pop rivets......