6x12 RC Workshop/Cargo Trailer Build

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

$69 at Lowes

lock1.JPG (82.57 KiB) Viewed 1733 times

lock2.JPG (111.61 KiB) Viewed 1733 times

it still needs a little work .....but almost perfect 1st time around.

I am still dreading the RV door handle as there seems to be a fair bit of cutting and precision to getting it just right.

I appreciate all the help here and in all the various threads. Allowed me to skip many of the pitfalls everyone else documented from their builds.

Thanks!

Grant

[roadinspector]

Jerry,
I like the lock! My rv latch works fine once I figured out the depth issue and how it was in relation with the wall.

Grant,
Its really not that big of a deal to install. Just study it well and learn from others mistakes like mine. I did a good butcher job but not so far as it was not fixable.

Earnest

[orcadigital]

OTT - I like it, but already have the RV style one. I really like the idea of the code for when I lose my key.

Earnest - I have several threads and images saved off of others doing the process. I just get timid when it comes to cutting into the trailer. Putting the hole in the front for the inlet took 2 weeks of working up to. The rear power outlet only took about a week, but I have spent almost as much time layering silicone on it to prevent any water leaks as well.

Personal opinion question. Do you guys feel it is secure with just the RC style lock, or should I keep the larger bar/padlock system as well? I know if someone wants in, they are getting in, but I am not sure if the RV style is a fairly easy break in, or if the larger bar is any more of a deterrent. I would like the cleaner look with the bar gone (need to fill the bolt holes though), but also would prefer no one breaking in as well.

Thanks!

[roadinspector]

Personal opinion question. Do you guys feel it is secure with just the RC style lock, or should I keep the larger bar/padlock system as well? I know if someone wants in, they are getting in, but I am not sure if the RV style is a fairly easy break in, or if the larger bar is any more of a deterrent. I would like the cleaner look with the bar gone (need to fill the bolt holes though), but also would prefer no one breaking in as well.

Thanks!

I kept mine to make me feel better about when I am not using it. There are pluses and minuses for keeping it. Getting rid of it does clean up the side and you don't have to worry about how to secure it so some idiot doesn't lock you in it. As for keeping it, you have additional measure with securing the door when traveling and the honest people out. Its all just personal preference. If someone wants in it they're gonna do it.

Good luck with your build.
Earnest

[lrrowe]

Personal opinion question. Do you guys feel it is secure with just the RC style lock, or should I keep the larger bar/padlock system as well? I know if someone wants in, they are getting in, but I am not sure if the RV style is a fairly easy break in, or if the larger bar is any more of a deterrent. I would like the cleaner look with the bar gone (need to fill the bolt holes though), but also would prefer no one breaking in as well.

Thanks!

I kept mine to make me feel better about when I am not using it. There are pluses and minuses for keeping it. Getting rid of it does clean up the side and you don't have to worry about how to secure it so some idiot doesn't lock you in it. As for keeping it, you have additional measure with securing the door when traveling and the honest people out. Its all just personal preference. If someone wants in it they're gonna do it.

Good luck with your build.
Earnest

Earnest,
I am with you. I think the added larger bar is an additional deterrent for unauthorized entry. And I agree, if someone wants in, they will figure out a way to do that. Many years back, I had my RV trailer broken into by a pry bar at my lock location. Was no problem for the bum who broke in. When I order my CT, I think I will add both the manufacturer install lock set and the large bar lock.

But do you know or does anyone else know how sturdy or strong the manufacturer lock sets are (especially the ones in manufacturer installed RV doors)? Is there added reinforcement in both the door and CT frame to resist a good break in attempt? You know, like how for home doors it is advised to use long screws to anchor the lock plate into the house frame as an added deterrent.

Bob

[hankaye]

lrrowe, Howdy;

I just measured the 'deadbolt' on my front door, I live in an RV,
and the bolt is only 5/8ths of an inch long. So, maybe a whole
3/8ths of an inch or if your door is truly snug fitting a whopping 1/2
of an inch will be inside some sheetmetal that is about 0.035" thick.
Very secure ... , NOT!!!
I intend to have both (cam action lock and the RV door latch), I'll
figure out a keep open latch for the cam lever so I don't get locked in...

hank

[roadinspector]

If you've ever installed the typical lock systems (including deadbolts) they sell at any box store, you have seen what they secure to. They are built more to make the owner feel secure than anything else. One good kick in the right place or hit with a sledge hammer and they are in. Pretty much the same goes for any lock on a CT. They might keep a crackhead out but not anyone that has their stuff together. All you can do is try to make it more work to get in than they want to do. I have noticed that plain CTs that look like tool trailers are broken into a lot. They are looking for tools that are a quick sell to a pawn shop or a construction site. Do what makes you feel secure and be happy with it.

Good luck!
Earnest

[lrrowe]

I now know for sure that my trailer will be ordered with all the extra lock security that I can get. At least it will address my paranoia.

[orcadigital]

Hehe great thoughts here. Exactly why I have no plans to put any kind of graphics on the outside. No reason to advertise having thousands of dollars in RC gear and electronics in it.

This is also part of the reason that I want it to fit in the garage. It will be more secure and out of sight and while my neighborhood is not bad by any means, it's better not to leave temptation out there. When I take it to the track, it is one of dozens and everyone is pretty good looking after each other.

I think I have been convinced to leave the bar on. Thank you everyone as always for all of the great advice!

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I also have 4 cameras outside, blinding flood lights, horns & a Glock security system as a surprise for them.

You guys just worry to much


You know why they require windows, it's so SWAT can throw in the flash bang & tear gas to get you out

[lrrowe]

I would like to get my future CT in the garage also, mainly for construction purposes. And most of the trailers I looked at appeared to be able to just make it. But if I add anything more to the top (AC, vent covers, solar panels) it will not make it. Have you made sure yours will fit?

There is always the idea I saw much earlier where one forum member fabricated small diameter steel wheels to use in place of the tires in order to clear the upper door limit. Good idea but a lot of work to swap with the tires each time one wants to get it in the garage.

[orcadigital]

I would like to get my future CT in the garage also, mainly for construction purposes. And most of the trailers I looked at appeared to be able to just make it. But if I add anything more to the top (AC, vent covers, solar panels) it will not make it. Have you made sure yours will fit?

There is always the idea I saw much earlier where one forum member fabricated small diameter steel wheels to use in place of the tires in order to clear the upper door limit. Good idea but a lot of work to swap with the tires each time one wants to get it in the garage.

That is the boat I am in. If you look at the second picture in the third post, you can see the trailer roof in relation to the open garage. How I would have preferred a flat top trailer, but the used market has what is has...

There are a couple things in my favor. The trailer is only 5'5 interior height (a little higher in the center to the sheet metal as I can stand up and touch but still stand up and I am 5'10. Once the ceiling is in, standing straight will not be an option, but for the use of my trailer, which will involve sitting down at work benches, or general hauling, neither require standing for any period of time. I swapped the original straight axle with a 4" drop axle, which bought me some more height at the expense of ground clearance. I have a somewhat steep driveway, and am still fine making the transition from road to driveway without dragging. I doubt I could use the bolt on jacks on the back now though. The trailer also came with both 14" and 15" wheels, and the 14's give me another half inch or so.

I have backed it in to the vent, and while it rubs the gasket, it fits to that point. That is without deflating tires or anything. The vent is the only reason it is still outside now. Garage is a standard height door. I could gain another 3/4" if I removed a trim piece on the garage door frame as well. I think if I did that, and took air out of the tires, it might fit with the vent, but like you, I am looking for something that fits convienently, not just fits hehe. I saw the same thread, and would prefer not to change wheels. I am lazy and that is a lot of work, even with my compressor and air gun.

The only thing I am unsure of is precisely how flat the roofline is when I tow. I am not sure (without deflating tires) that I could get it back into the garage while connected to the SUV. I do have a variable ride height suspension on the TV, so I plan on trying, but will be a bit before I can test and report back on that.

[lrrowe]

I went back and looked at your pictures and I see what you mean about the height. I guess I will be in the same situation as you are except my problem should be worse as I want a full 6 feet inside. That is why I look at the outside height of the trailers which I check their specs.
I wonder if they (manufacturers) include the vent covers in their calculations. Oh well, we will wait and see to attack that problem when the time comes. I would consider swapping wheels during the main modification process only but like you, not each time I would like it in the garage.

Guess the ultimate solution is to build a new garage. That is not going to happen!

[orcadigital]

Hehe I can't tell you how many times I looked at the garage and wondered about other options.

From what I have seen, most manufacturers do not include vents in their height calculations. From my research before buying, I know many manufacturers did not list exterior height at all though. I assume this is due to the wheel/tire options and knowing that height would vary. Some custom trailer builders let you change trailer interior height in 3 inch increments up and down, and a 5'9" interior might be a compromise also? I remember seeing some listed exterior heights and thinking a 6' interior would work, but when I look at what I have now, I am just not sure. I have not seen a drop axle of greater then 4". I have not seen 13" wheel tire combos with the load rating necessary (possible a duel axle might be different, but not sure they have a 13" option), which leaves 14+. A flat roof is really the only other thing, and not knowing where it is measured from, I am not sure if you could fit the extra 6 inches in there. I know deflating tires can give you another 1-2 inches, so it may very well be possible to scrape the needed height with the right trailer and a standard height garage door.

Once it is in the garage, I have another 18 inches of clearance, it is just the door way.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I don't really follow all your worries, first the bubble dome slides right off in 5 seconds,
There is 3" right off the batt.
Second you can remove the vent ring in 5 minutes 2 more inches
3rd if you still need let 50% air out of tires
4th have blind man push trailer into garage.

Option 2 is cut 6" from the trailer side walls - reinstall roof.

Option 3 have a guy come and lower the concrete and driveway ramp 6" might be $10,000 or more.