Its sort of mine!

[Padilen]

What a China motor with plastic internals looks like after self destruction



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[flboy]

Plastic internals on a motor doesn't even make sense? Not surprising it blew apart. Try to find a little Briggs and Stratton. Last time I had one of those open... they were all metal.

[Padilen]

From what I've read on line Briggs is only assembled here now. Tecumseh is history. In one you tube a guy stats he bought metal gears but I didn't see where, he bought them.


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[McDave]

Been a while since you cracked a B&S open? It's all china now. Even Honda. But they have had plastic timing gears and oil sentry's for years, decades. Plastic cams too. Is that a Fuz Ho motor? They are a close knock off of Honda. I can't get a good view the way the pic appears for me, what's the damage?

McDave

[Padilen]

Our search didn't find a manufacturer. But it's China made for sure. This is the first OHV I've opened, so I'm not sure what all is missing. But even the piston is broke. Cylinder isn't damaged because it's the piston skirt that broke off. The connection between 2 of the OHV is broken, and all the plastic parts.
The 2 Onan's he brought over to see if we could get running had "Japan" on them. They just looked well built. I know Onan has a good reputation too. I told him I thought he did good getting them. We took the recoil off this broke engine modified it and got it on the little Onan. Cleaned the carb (and tank) and added gas. It started bumbled a bit but we let it run for a couple of hours with sea foam in gas. Cleaned up the bigger ones's carb. That took our time Sunday, so we left rust remover in the bigger Onan tank. Got back to it Monday. Finished cleaning up the tank and reinstalled. Added gas and seafoam, started it first pull. Got the little one out and it too started first pull.
First thing I did when he brought them over was check gas- varnished, tanks rusty, plugs bad but great spark and finger test showed good compression. I didn't have correct plugs and neither of us had money for new. So we used the China motor plug for the little Onan and cleaned the best of the other 2 for the bigger Onan. I did have oil so we changed both after we ran them, a little. I told him he needed to take care of them get plugs and oil and startron, or run nonalcohol gas. Neither had air filters, I told him he had to get them! Monday night he searched for info and texted me they were Kawasaki engines. .



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[McDave]

Indeed, Onan is probably the best gen. engine when it comes to RV and larger. I'm pretty sure you could find a china unit sporting the Onan brand, but those are for occasional use or back ups, not really a serious tool. The japan Kawasaki engine is a good one as well.
Fuel problems have made me a wealthy man since the EPA has become "weaponized". In Montana, we can still get 91+ octane no ethanol unleaded. It behaves like real gas should, however, generators tend to sit around longer than other engines. So better safe than sorry. Stabilize fuel at time of purchase, keep all gas cans either full or empty. Same goes for tanks. All the way full of stabilized premium no ethanol, or all the way empty. Also, run it out of gas so carb fuel bowl will be empty. If you have a shut off valve, close it and fire engine until it dies. Don't buy more than you will realistically use in a month or two. A five gallon can to work from is enough for most people. Mix your 2 stroke from this stabilized fuel into a 1 gal can. If you want emergency fuel stabilize and keep those cans full and don't work from them until they have been around several months. If you can keep them off the concrete in a place where the temp is stable it helps.
For most folks, the amount of fuel used in small engines is not huge, so buy the good stuff and stabilize it every time. It may cost 2.00 more /5 gal but I'll charge you 150.00/hr or more. Throw in some parts and you could just as well replace the unit. Same goes for your hot rods and Harleys and airplanes. you cant really get all the fuel out of those so store them FULL. When cheap gas breaks down it is no longer gas, and it will melt plastic and turn rubber into goo.

McDave

[Padilen]

They want 2$ more a gallon for ag gas here and it's 20 miles away to get it.
I never heard to keep plastic 5 gallon cans off concrete. Guess I should do that. I'm guilty of always having 10 gallons, and a5 of premix. My Stihl dealer, claims the oil has additives in it and will last for months. I add startron and try to replace it often. I use about 5 gallons of straight and 2-1/2 of premix a month in summer. I used about 3 of premix and 4-1/2 of straight collecting firewood. Had just reloaded all cans when snow and extreme cold hit. So unless I need generator or use my snowblower it won't get used .


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[McDave]

I'm not really familiar with startron, but Stabil type actually floats on gas sealing it from air and moisture. The ethanol in the fuel tries to attract and absorb moisture. Heet and similar products are isopropanol (alcohol) which work by getting the water into solution and then "burning it", really just passing it off as fuel, very poor fuel. If you clean your hands in alcohol you will see it took the water out of your skin. If you burn alcohol you will have water as a by product.
The reason to keep off concrete is that is where the most water vapour is located. If can and fuel thermal cycles and takes in air it will be saturated air.
Stihl products are very good, but I wouldn't buy the fuel premixed. I use only OPTI full synthetic and premium gas that I had previously stabilized. Its a clear blue color when mixed and is smokeless. Stihl wants to be exclusive and expensive. They are a little stuck up, and their reps have that attitude. I just jack up my prices for them and suddenly they find a way to be nice and polite. But they do make good tools.

McDave

[Padilen]

I may have to try Stabil, I have never used it. I got a mower from a neighbor that claimed to have used it. He also gave me the rest of a bottle of it. But the fuel system was messed up. I assumed it was hyped up claims of Stabil so I disliked it. But maybe my neighbor mistakingly informed me, about when and how he added it.


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[Padilen]

I'm amazed that people will bid on eBay stuff at or even above the new in store price! And the used stuff is worse. I bid on a motor for the little generator. I can go to HF and get one with a warranty for about the price it's at now.


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[flboy]

Been a while since you cracked a B&S open? It's all china now. Even Honda. But they have had plastic timing gears and oil sentry's for years, decades. Plastic cams too. Is that a Fuz Ho motor? They are a close knock off of Honda. I can't get a good view the way the pic appears for me, what's the damage?

McDave

It has been a long time... maybe 10 years or so... but I don't remember seeing plastic gears. The engine was pretty old also... that is why I had it opened up.. Lost compression... I ended up throwing it out as this one really wasn't worth the parts to rebuild (rings destroyed and scored the cylinder wall). I think I took it apart at the time more for the autopsy than the intent to fix.

I guess I should not be surprised there is plastic in them now.. that seems to be the way the world has went.. but having said that, I wonder how many times the plastics are the real reason for the failures.. I really have no idea.

Padilen.. I know what you mean about E-Bay on the auctions... Really, I think people just get competitive and want to "win " the bid.. It doesn't make any sense to me either. I always decide what something is worth to me and set my max bid there.... but I don't submit my bid until about 10 seconds before the auction ends if it is still in the range I am willing to pay.. I have been most successful that way... else people just bid stuff up.

[Padilen]

I got a "new" 8 hp last night for 100.01 for a leaf blower repair. So 3.02 more than the 3 hp went for. But yeah I didn't "need" it !
The first 8 went for 142. So I was happy with 100. But I just got a notice that the next one went for 72. I had bid 71 on it then instead of jumping around I stuck with one, and only upped my bid on it.


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[Padilen]

So I have both motors neither fits it's intended project. The 3 hp has a different shaft (pto) length and diameter. I knew it wasn't tapered but not smaller diameter. This "fix" was on a small engine forum. A poster claimed to have used it twice to repair the UST1350. And was a direct replacement. Either they've made product changes or poster lied.
Edit: stayed up late reading more about the change. After saying it was a direct and exact replacement, the poster then says they used the cam and side exhaust off the original engine to make it fit. Then further posts says a complete disassembly of the new motor is needed to do the cam swap. Good news is yesterday I had the idea to swap cams and had removed the old one to inspect. Still thinking on it.
I was very confused and got upset with HF on the shipping of my engine. Kind of yelled at them on the phone. Only to have to call the next day and apologize . I was reading online about the Predator engines on eBay. Here's what I learned. The seller doesn't have the product. If you "win" they order from Harbor Freight and it ships to you. You've paid them the money not HF. They pay HF with a stolen credit card number.
This is why I had to call back and apologize, I had 2 shipments from HF not one , the one I ordered, the one the eBay "seller" shipped. I would not have bid on the HF engine had I known this. I was thinking I'd be getting a refurbished unit or scammed. Not that Id be helping a thief.
I'm hoping the info I got about adding electric start to my older bigger generators is better than the UST info was.
Tandempair picked up their trailer today . I finished my lift bed mods, coping what I did on theirs. And added safety cables to my springs.
I'm not sure if I want a small generator or just haul one of my big ones. Is an inverter gen really needed. How big do I need with & without my AC ?
If I buy a small one will it really be a lot quieter? Run for 8 or more hours on a gallon or so?



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[McDave]

Hold on there Missy,
I don't think I've ever seen a cam driven genny before. Do you mean to say a tapered crank shaft? And that the crank needs to be swapped? Or, am I just misreading that. Most Genny's do require the tapered shaft and also the governor needs to set at 3600 under load. It is a Gen. and not a Inverter, correct?

McDave

[Padilen]

Yes, thanks for pointing out my poor Parts lingo. I was half asleep and rushing around when I posted that. Plus I swap ID's often. What I was suppose to say is the HF allegedly has a steel cam and the original motor had plastic. The original crank is tapered & I knew the HF wasn't. But the crank is suppose to fit.
Here's the post I used. Well actually I deleted the first one here is the second one and I'll hunt again for the first.
Re: Predator Generators
Just FYI the 79.5cc Preditor is made by Rato. Specifically it is a Rato R80. (It is enbossed inside the block.) Virtually identical to engine used by UST on their 1350W gen sold by Walmart. I've swapped a number of HF engines onto UST gens. Just requires swap of old crank into new engine. (Complete teardown of both engines as govenor gear won't clear piston skirt without head removal.... believe me I tried!) UST model runs a nylon cam.
Plus side is HF 79.5cc has real steel cam and motor as cheap as $90. Downside is no low oil shutoff on HF engine, requiring oil level check before every run.

Don't know about now, but the Predator 212cc engine -stand alone- used to come with an extra jet for high altitude in the box. Running at 5100 feet most stock gens tend to run rich.
Doc
__________________


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