7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[flboy]

Worked on the shower today and did some paneling. I bought FRP (Fiberglass) Paneling to waterproof the shower walls, but I got the backer board up, the shower drain in and the "wedge" built". I will waterproof that with some linoleum and then seal the to the shower with a 3/8 inch metal strip. I'll take some pics when done... it is hard to explain what I have in mind.



This wedge area adds space to the shower and entry into the shower. I did not want the whole shower 34" wide as it would have taken too much space out of the kitchen area. I can move around in this "odd shape" well. The Shower curtain will go across the entire front.




Will glue the FRP Paneling on and trim it out. It will extend over the backer board down into the shower to seal. This is going make a nice shower. It fits me well :-)



I paneled the entry closet so I can finish the electrical work and install switches and etc.. The 1ft. gap on the bottom is to connect up the battery compartment which is in the closet and will partially be under the dinette seat (room for 4 batteries... will install 3 to start) . I will seal all that up and vent outside when done.

[m.colley]

looking good there Don. I'm starting on my limited plumbing myself. Keep up the good work and progress.


Martin

[flboy]

Thanks Martin! I am getting some stuff done. Slow but sure!


I got the shower walls up to the point I just have trim work, some caulking, glue cleanup, and to hang the adjustable shower pole that you can see setting on the corner. After I wrap the bathroom up this week and get the electrical mostly hooked up, I will start on the kitchen. We'll see how far I get this week. Not a lot of time in the evenings. Just an hour here and there.

[Hader]

All looks good Flboy.

I like your shower set-up, I was thinking a bout a 2-piece shower enclosure. Looking at your shower, I may change my plan.

[Iconfabul8]

IMO every ctc should have a shower & a pot! Looks good!

[Hader]

Flboy,
What will you be using for the shower walls?

[flboy]

The shower walls are in. I glued FRP paneling (it is fiberglass reinforced plastic ) on to the underlayment. You can get 4'*8' sheets at Lowe's or Home depot. I also decided to use a piece to cover the plywood Triangle that I incorporated into the shower for some extra elbow room.

The FRP was easy to work with. It cuts well with a razor knife and is waterproof.

You probably can't tell from the pictures, but the FRP paneling has a nice non-slip texture on the front side.

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[flboy]

I have some plumbing questions and hoping someone can advise. I am going to use Pex tubing to plumb My CTC conversion and my thought is to have a ½” Coldwater and Hotwater Main then will have reduction T’s to tap off where needed to 3/8 in into faucets, etc.. I have seen manifolds used where all the tubes are “homerun”, but I’d rather not do that unless very necessary. Questions:



1) Is ½ too big. If so what size. I am not at home and don’t know what the standard RV pump would need.

2) Are reductions needed at the (“T”) tap points to maintain pressure? I believe the faucets and etc. reduce internally.

3) Depending on answers for #1 and #2, Could 3/8” be used throughout?



Thank you in advance. I can use the advice. I have no problems connecting things up, but no being a plumber, I am not sure on these things and want a professional installation with good pressure.

I'll post in plumbing thread also.

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[Hader]

One of the most common pumps http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... pump/28997 says: "Supplied with 2 x 1/2" male threaded adaptors plus 1 x 1/2" (13mm) barbed elbow and 1 x 1/2" straight barbed adaptor". I hope that will help.

[KCStudly]

I would think that it isn't so much about the size of the line as it is how long the line is and how far away the pump is from the demand. The pump wants to be close to the source tank (most pumps need positive suction head, i.e. they don't suck too well). After that it is a combination of things: the longer the line, the higher the lift, the smaller the diameter, the more resistance to flow rate.

So if your pump is mounted low and close to your fresh tank, which is mounted close under your loo, sink and shower, then maybe you could get away with 3/8 for the sink and loo, but probably would want the full 1/2 inch feeding the shower since it is higher up and who wants a weak shower?

I would probably stick with the 1/2 inch throughout, matching the pump. It won't hurt anything, doesn't cost that much more on a simple system, and there is no risk of poor performance.

I will qualify this advice by saying I have zero experience with RV plumbing systems, but do have plenty of experience with fluid systems of all types.

[flboy]

Thanks all for the feedback. I am going 100% 1/2 Pex. Bought the materiel at Lowes tinight on the way home from the office. I ended up just buying the White Pex tubing. 100' (way more than I need) was $27 and change. They only sell 100 feet rolls. I wanted to use blue and red, but I did't want to buy 200ft. I'll just use some colored electrical tape in areas where it may be confusing. I have Red and Blue, so I will mark them at the connections.

Of course I'll take some pics as I go.

I am getting excited.... closer to the finish line and its starting to look like a trailer inside.

[McDave]

Doing some Great work there Don.
I used 1/2" ID tube throughout, with barbed fittings. Instant hot H2o, so really only 1 line. City pressure comes in on pressure side of pump so no back flow into tank. Iv'e been wrestling with my shower today as well, frustrating, but I'll get it. Sturgis is coming fast. Took the trailer to Ironhorse, but didn't have shower finished, lots of ends to tie up. I'm gonna have to really dig in to make it all happen. We'll see....,.

McDave

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

I have some plumbing questions and hoping someone can advise. I am going to use Pex tubing to plumb My CTC conversion and my thought is to have a ½” Coldwater and Hotwater Main then will have reduction T’s to tap off where needed to 3/8 in into faucets, etc.. I have seen manifolds used where all the tubes are “homerun”, but I’d rather not do that unless very necessary. Questions:



1) Is ½ too big. If so what size. I am not at home and don’t know what the standard RV pump would need.

2) Are reductions needed at the (“T”) tap points to maintain pressure? I believe the faucets and etc. reduce internally.

3) Depending on answers for #1 and #2, Could 3/8” be used throughout?

Thank you in advance. I can use the advice. I have no problems connecting things up, but no being a plumber, I am not sure on these things and want a professional installation with good pressure.

I'll post in plumbing thread also.

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1) 1/2 is the standard size used throughout RVs

2) No.

3) Why??? See #1.

Re. Pressure, mostly Pex will suffer up to around 60 or so psi. Generally, pressure at campgrounds
is the same as hydrant pressure roughly 125psi. Buy a cheap pressure regulator at Wally World. It'll save
you future headaches.

Some ?helpful? links;

http://www.pexinfo.com/

As PEX is difficult to bend they have some supports to help it behave and not try to straighten out.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Plastic-Bend-Supports-523000

Most plumbing supply houses carry all of what you'll need and as a bonus have the crimpers for rent to boot.

Hope this helps.

hank

[lrrowe]

I have also found out you can remove a crimp should you need to rework something. A Dremel works well if you are careful. And you do not cut into the Ex.

[flboy]

Thanks again all for the positive comments and for the feedback on the Pex usage. It really is helpful. I started installing the water pump and plumbing tonight. I need to get it all together and pressure test before I close up the wall dividing the shower and kitchen. The shower faucet connection is inside the wall and I need make sure it is leak free. The remainder of the connections will be in places I can get to without destructing.

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