7x14 H&H Cargo trailer Toy Hauler conversion

[cornfused]

I have one of these with the wireless remote. 12V 2000lb capacity ATV winch. The problem is mounting it in a way that is either out of the way, or easily removable.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-el ... -8041.html


Edit: Think an instal something more like this

[cornfused]

Well, I decided to do a recessed in floor winch mount. I got creative last night with the CNC plasma and welder and came up with this. I'm planning on installing it tonight. The two ends bolt to floor cross members and the floor itself will be sandwiched between the two other plates. So all it will stick up from the floor is the 3/16" of the top clamp plate.

[MountainBound]

Nice! A CNC conversion for my plasma cutter is on my bucket list...

[cornfused]

Here is the in floor winch mount installed. It worked great for the show I had this weekend in Nebraska.

How it bolts to the floor cross members.


Winch installed in the trailer.

[Dirtclod]

Nice work Cornfused That looks STOUT

I wish I had welding skills. Can do wood but metal not so much.

[cornfused]

I'm the opposite, that's why I started with unfinished cabinets and modified them to fit my "V" instead of making them from scratch. I design/build prototype AG and Construction Equipment for my "real job" so I'm used to building stuff pretty heavy. The trailer cross members seem pretty wimpy to me...

My hobby business gives me a reason to fill up my shop with more tools and capabilities.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hey Cornfused

Great job !!!

We should have a section here so we could all exchange trades & maybe do some little jobs.

I could be in charge of the "OverTheTop thinking dept."

As a matter of fact I was just thinking if you could make me some trailer hdyrolics to tilt the entire trailer up to 30 deg
So that my roof panels would get max sun exposure.

the easy way would be to just tilt the panels on the roof & keep the trailer flat

Keep up the good work!!
You know I was joking right

[cornfused]

First try at making a folding bed frame. I still need to put some plywood down over the frame. I made the e-track mounts by cutting apart the 2x4 wood e-track mounts and welding the 2x2 tube to them. It is that high so that I can still use the bed if my "inventory cart" is in the trailer.

[cornfused]

Well, it's been awhile since I updated this. I do have both fold down beds done in the trailer. My wife and I pulled it on a 750 mile road trip this weekend to a show for my hobby business. My truck is down right now so I borrowed my father in laws 2013 F150 V8. The mileage was pretty bad compared to my diesel...not that I was expecting much rolling 75 down I-80.



On a good note, my wife did enjoy staying in the trailer though and she has been a little skeptical the whole time.
I even got her to make me some curtains for the windows. Now that it's getting a little warmer out I've got a list of projects to finish up on the trailer. Mostly wiring related, but I have some ideas to add camping item storage to the trailer as well.

[lrrowe]

confused,
I just sent you a PM today.
Bob

[lrrowe]

I got my 2nd window installed last night. It is an 18inx42in slider. First thing I did was cut out a notch for my horizontal brace. Then I welded it in place along with a vertical brace to set the window position.

Then I cut out the window opening. I used a circular saw with an aluminum blade for the straight cuts and a small air powered auto body saw for the rounded corners.





I did mess up and marked the cut in the wood upside-down so the back side of the panel is showing, not really a big deal. It just means i have more paining to do now...

Hi cornfused,

I know that your H&H has screwless sides. With that being the case, did you have any issues with removing parts of the uprights when you cut your window opening in the aluminum skin? Since the aluminum is bonded to the upright, how did you separate the aluminum skin from the upright?

Bob

[cornfused]

I took the upright out still connected to the aluminum skin. What I did first was cut out the tubing where my horizontal support was going to go with an air cutoff wheel. This small section was the only piece I had to separate from the aluminum skin. I welded the new brace in place and then I cut out the window opening and left the tubing in the window section still attached to the skin I cut out. I also added some adhesive between the new supports I added and the skin.

[cornfused]

Since I had some damage to the inside of my door after some inventory came loose going down the road I decided it was time to insulate the door and patch it up. I used .1 aluminum diamond plate and some leftover aluminum trim from the inside. It's like a whole new door now that it's insulated. Before when you closed the door it sounded like a flimsy tin can...now it sounds like it's solid. The RV latch also seems a lot more rigid now as well because the thicker inside aluminum reinforced it quite a bit.

[lrrowe]

I took the upright out still connected to the aluminum skin. What I did first was cut out the tubing where my horizontal support was going to go with an air cutoff wheel. This small section was the only piece I had to separate from the aluminum skin. I welded the new brace in place and then I cut out the window opening and left the tubing in the window section still attached to the skin I cut out. I also added some adhesive between the new supports I added and the skin.

I followed what you did about everything except the small section that had to be removed from the vertical pieces to accommodate the horizontal bars. I am guessing it was about 1 inch long. Did that 1 in piece have adhesive on it and how did you separate that piece without messing up the aluminum skin?

Bob

[cornfused]

Yes, it was a little over 1" long with the tape attached. To be honest I don't remember how I got it off. I think the heat from the cutoff wheel in that small of area heated it up enough that I was able to "roll" the tube off the adhesive strip, either that or I was able to slide a small puddy knife in there...