6x12 V-Nose Build

[Gonefishin]

I've done some limited inside cooking with my two-burner Coleman propane stove that dates back a couple decades. I open windows, a roof vent or two, and haven't had the CO alarm go off yet. Just use more than enough ventilation. I try not to cook things that spatter a lot of grease. Its nice to just wipe off the stove and put it back on its shelf in the chuck box when I'm done. No counter space lost, yet still sets up in just a minute or two whenever I need it. When the weather is nice or I just want or need to cook outside, it still sets up anywhere I want it, quick and easy.

[Prem]

http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?mode=medium&album_id=964&image_id=71244

Never inside.

[abqlloyd]

Thanks all. I still can't figure out why a Coleman stove will kill you but an Atwood supposedly won't. Neither is vented. Both burn propane. Both emit CO.

My indoor cooking will probably consist of boiling water or heating Spaghettios. I never liked the smell inside.

[abqlloyd]

Insulation: Round 2

The label for 1" EPS states that about half of the R-value comes from the air space. It's the same for XPS depending on which source I read. Stuffing 1" of XPS between the metal studs with no airspace on the outside is less efficient than 1/2" XPS spaced out from the siding.

What am I missing?

[Prem]

Cindy wrote:

Those gaps allow any moisture that migrates from the inside to the outside walls a path of escape.

Is your trailer all aluminum or steel?

[abqlloyd]

Steel.

[Prem]

Steel turns to iron oxide in large quantities exposed continuously to H2O, drainage gaps helping little, if at all.

Best to completely waterproof the interior steel and eliminate all gaps so that water cannot get in.

[abqlloyd]

I guess I'm not sure why we all stuff the walls full of foam when it would be cheaper and more efficient to stuff them half full.

I did find another piece of product info which states XPS does not need the air space like EPS to get full R value.

I have 1" XPS for the walls. I'm using composite furring strips 1/8" thick against the siding. Over the metal studs I'm installing two pieces of rolled foam used for sill foundation sealing which works about to about 1/8". A tiny bit of thermal break and it keeps the spacing correct.

[abqlloyd]

I broke down and bought one of these. It is supposed to make the application much easier. I didn't spray today because it was simply too cold.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419816772.459916.jpg (58.78 KiB) Viewed 1880 times

[Prem]

Both my last posts were @Cindy.

From the inside out, here's "a picture is worth a thousand words:"

https://31.media.tumblr.com/22dfddfaa3657a51446b5a5a59debc09/tumblr_inline_n2phep3WaT1sbslrs.jpg

http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/old-rusted-cargo-container-door-fragment-texture-21582590.jpg

[wtcreaux]

Prem,

I have tried to stop the rust with Rustoleum but without success. You have mentioned roofing tar in the past but I cannot find the posts. What are your suggestions??

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-0-90-G ... /100041225

OR

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-4-75-G ... /100003547

or something else??

Respectfully,
William

[Prem]

William,

Henry's non-fibered plastic tar. It's what they used to apply (spray on thick) to the inside skin of school buses below the windows for all the condensation to run down. Then they stuck fiberglass batting to the tar. Here's what it looks like with the fiberglass batting pulled off the tar. (Right side wall below the windows shows some tar):



FYI: School buses are built to survive most crashes. The steel is hardened and sometimes galvanized. Self-drilling screws don't work on it. Drill bits wear out fast.

For everybody else: Prior proper preparation prevents condensation and rust.

I spray foamed my bus to kill the sheet metal drum effect. (I raised the roof 3 ft. 9 in. and put all the bedrooms upstairs.) Turned out it was the ultimate insulation against condensation also.

I used block foam with wood construction in all my other builds, Then, I did my cargo trailer wrong by NOT spray foaming it, but it's aluminum--no rust--so I only have to watch the interior paneling rot away from the condensation.

All the pain for what it worth. Sorry.

[Rainier70]

Mine is painted steel tubing ribs with an aluminum outside. I did both taping and a vapor barrier on the inside of my insulation to reduce or stop condensation migration.

It helps too that I keep good ventilation in my ct at all times, and I live in a very dry climate.

[Prem]

Good thinking Cindy. That should give you years of rust-free camping.

[abqlloyd]

I went with XPS and Great Stuff.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419895293.804180.jpg (167.96 KiB) Viewed 1767 times

Foil tape over the seams.