Its sort of mine!

[McDave]

Well, that didn't take long. Just as predicted. ... ..
So, heat has a cumulative effect when it comes to refrigeration. Sure you could remove the heat from the condenser with 100, 110, 120f air. and since it is in a small well insulated space that's just what happens. And since the air used to cool condenser is ever rising in temp, the reefer will be exposed to hotter ambient temp, causing it to cycle more often and run longer cycles adding more heat to the air used to cool the condenser, making it even less efficient, causing it to run longer etc,.etc., ad nauseum.
Also, as we both know, if you need the heat from the refrigerator in the winter, you have bigger problems. It's more likely you will have to heat the refrigerator to keep it from freezing.
But hey, since you will likely have to a hole or two in your trailer either way, multi tasking might be too complicated given the proximity of the two appliances, it's got to be literally...centimetres if not inches.
Ever wonder how it is possible to be hotter in that well insulated trailer than the outside temp? VooDoo maybe? Or not.

McDave

[flboy]

Well, that didn't take long. Just as predicted. ... ..
So, heat has a cumulative effect when it comes to refrigeration. Sure you could remove the heat from the condenser with 100, 110, 120f air. and since it is in a small well insulated space that's just what happens. And since the air used to cool condenser is ever rising in temp, the reefer will be exposed to hotter ambient temp, causing it to cycle more often and run longer cycles adding more heat to the air used to cool the condenser, making it even less efficient, causing it to run longer etc,.etc., ad nauseum.
Also, as we both know, if you need the heat from the refrigerator in the winter, you have bigger problems. It's more likely you will have to heat the refrigerator to keep it from freezing.
But hey, since you will likely have to a hole or two in your trailer either way, multi tasking might be too complicated given the proximity of the two appliances, it's got to be literally...centimetres if not inches.
Ever wonder how it is possible to be hotter in that well insulated trailer than the outside temp? VooDoo maybe? Or not.

McDave

McDave... you miss the point of my response to Padilen's PM questions on my build... Sure we could make a science project out this, but let's be practical, whatever recurring contribution the Fridge makes to ambient temperature in the CTC.... the unused capacity in the 8000 BTU AC will remove it as it runs to cool/condition due to all the other much larger and primary sources of heat introduced by opening doors, sun etc., and in the winter it would, at worst, contribute with some heat. They don't vent fridges in houses for probably the same reason (simplicity vs complexity and benefit, i.e. the law of diminishing returns). If there was nothing else removing heat from the CTC, I could agree with you. That simple. Tradeoffs with efficiency and simplicity of build and maintenance is what I was going for. All the fridge really needs to operate as designed is some room for ambient air to circulate around it unless it will be running when the trailer is not being used in the summer and the temperature is allowed to rise significantly.

If it is simple and less complex for the "2fer"... why not.. just make sure the fridge front is all sealed up with all gaps closed and isolated decently from inside air so the AC condensor fan isn't pulling in any cabin air or any small gains made by venting it in the first place are lost... maybe worse.


Have you seen that really cutting edge magnetocaloric heat pump. Imagine if you could make one of those for your CTC... Now then you'd have something really energy efficient. I want one. :-)

[Padilen]

Don, McDave,
I'm asking you both for advise. I have nothing planned I'm just thinking. I don't think mine is going to be a copy of anything. I have to be different. I'll get some thinking done tomorrow and some measuring. Then I'll ask for advise and suggestions again.
Thank you both.
I may also be able to free up some money for a different AC.


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[Padilen]

Unrestful rest. Been up since 4am.
This is what I've learned
Dual hose AC costs are almost as much has RV AC.
Which is too much! RV AC will make TAZ to tall for pole barn.
Both are much higher BTU and new gen may not run.
I've also learned that while I couldn't get 50$ for the window AC's I have replacing them is $200 and over. They are better models and remote controlled units. Those cheap ones are mechanical controlled. The 8000 Btu is older used a few summers. The 10000 was used a few months before I got it. I used it maybe 2 times last year. Don mentioned a noise - that of the water being slung. That's what irritated me, I just didn't know what it was.
McDave
Right now the idea is fridge would only go when camping more than a weekend. So it would stay portable. But ...
Don,
Our fridges look similar. I ordered stainless look- but it's just the front rest of it is black


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[Padilen]

I didn't do much today. I walked over and helped my elderly neighbor. I got her window AC in. She is the one that gave me the 8000btu AC. I came home and opened it( 8000) up.
Don the hard start will not fit in either. Do you have a pic of yours?


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[Padilen]

The replacement Gen came today, seems to be in great shape . Added oil and gas and fired it up. Then checked to see if it ran the AC's it does! I have not read up on it but it also seemed to run the 8000 portable, and the 10000 on "economy" ! I didn't try the 8000 window as I have the case off it. And it was raining.



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[Padilen]

Don,
What would be (ifen I buy) a good unit 5000 BTU. I need quiet, energy saver, remote.
How do I tell one that will start compressor on my gen?


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[flboy]

Don,
What would be (ifen I buy) a good unit 5000 BTU. I need quiet, energy saver, remote.
How do I tell one that will start compressor on my gen?


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Hi Padilen. I just got back from Teen Camp this evening and have decent internet again. I have some catching up to do. Honestly, I don't know what to recommend. I Think a GE or Frigidaire are probably the safer bets only because they likely have a better quality control systems. ... I have an Artic King that is quiet and has a remote.. It works great, but I have only had it a year so I can't speak to the long term reliability. I am not sure who makes the compressors and such for these small AC's these days. Like most things anymore, there are probably only 2 or three manufacturers and everyone just relabels/brands them.

I wouldn't pay more than ~$150.00 for what you are looking for in any case.. Your generator should fire up any 5000 BTU if I understand your question correctly... The issue with these AC's and the generators is not the running watts, it is the startup surge which may vary depending on the AC... My Honda won't start my particular AC in Econo mode. The AC trips it's brown out circuit. Other larger units will start in econo.. go figure...

I did see that your new generator worked and fired up the AC's.. Glad to hear that. I figured it would.

[Padilen]

Welcome back. Glad the snakes didn't get you.
I was asking more for the generator not to have to labor to start the AC.
I haven't seen any with remote for less than 134.
Artic King is the brand of my little fridge! AC is seasonal here so prices may be different than in FL.
Yes the gen fired them or I think it did. I will do more testing.
Also where did you stick that hard start capacitor? The 8000 BTU I have it wont fit any where. I will consider using it as my AC. But I would also be looking for a 5000. The 8 is older and shows some bad rust. And in general just a dirty unit. I'm going to clean it up, see how it looks. Right now side by side with the newer 10000btu, it looks filthy and ancient.


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[flboy]

Welcome back. Glad the snakes didn't get you.
I was asking more for the generator not to have to labor to start the AC.
I haven't seen any with remote for less than 134.
Artic King is the brand of my little fridge! AC is seasonal here so prices may be different than in FL.
Yes the gen fired them or I think it did. I will do more testing.
Also where did you stick that hard start capacitor? The 8000 BTU I have it wont fit any where. I will consider using it as my AC. But I would also be looking for a 5000. The 8 is older and shows some bad rust. And in general just a dirty unit. I'm going to clean it up, see how it looks. Right now side by side with the newer 10000btu, it looks filthy and ancient.


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Sound's like you don't need the hard start cap if your new gen fires it up.

I removed the hard start cap from my AC. I was trying to get it to start in Econo mode... and that didn't help as it was not the Generator tripping out, it is the AC itself tripping its brownout circuit.. That was an experiment and a shot in the dark on my part... not the type of hard start issue the cap is intended for when it is the generator tripping out when the AC is trying to start. My Gen fires up my AC just fine... but not in Eco Mode.

When I did have it installed, it was zip tied right inside the case where the air is drawn in and the wires were run inside the enclosed area. It does not fit in the protected case area where the existing starter cap and circuit card is.. The Hard Start caps from Supco are sealed, insulated and protected themselves (black plastic top casing over leads and includes a relay), so they should be fine.. however.. I never got around to calling Supco because I removed it... Before I'd leave it in the area where weather (rain) will get to it... I'd call Supco and ask how "weatherproof" the casing is on that part... There are no exposed leads and casing should keep water out.. but I'd ask to be safe. I do have one in my Home AC that was on its last legs and would labor to start... Been in there 2 years now and really extended the AC life some (no longer labors to start)... The Supco cap is not in direct weather such as rain however..

[Padilen]

Don and McDave
I'm not sure about the compressor actually coming on. I forgot about the delay between on and off, of unit. I'm not use to AC I don't have central. I may use the window maybe once or twice or not at all.
I just posted this in another thread.

Why cut the stud to fit the vent, if the vent has a "lip" just cut the lip to fit around the stud and leave the flange in place. This is my plan when I shamelessly copy flboy's design....

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I've also thought about doing this. Some vent designs would work. But not in my vee. I have one other idea that is 2 smaller vents one on each side of my vee. I'm concerned that in the vee when transporting CTC will have updraft between truck and trailer. This may force air and water into vents. So if I used 2, 6 inch (duct) furnace vents. Something like this I'd need to block/close them off. So I thought deck plates on the inside of CTC. Well ok, that might be a plan. But how do I put the covers on behind an enclosed AC? Now one other of my problems is I do not want to cut the roof. I don't want my CTC higher. But I have a slanted vee. So could I put a roof vent in the slanted part of the vee? Build a water dam for the upper side ?
I agree that cutting a stud is best done before walls are up. But in my case I didn't want a window until portable failed to keep CTC cool. So I'm limited to where a window unit can go.
I should have planned for the failure and had a secondary prefab in place, for another AC before "completing" my CTC.
Another thing to remember when "copying" is that while different makes of CT's seem the same. There can be differences that go unnoticed until to late. I copied my own loft/lift bed. Knowing bed size would be different. I asked my friends to order a certain trailer. They went to a different CT maker&size. So I had to re figure everything to build the "copy".
But the kicker is their bed came out much nicer than mine.

The vee roof vent idea is new. Thought of it last night /morning. I have my friend and builder coming over to see if my build idea is strong enough for the AC. Then I'll check this vent idea. What do you think of it.
Thanks


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[Padilen]

I've found some neat vents.
https://shed-parts.com/collections/shed-vents


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[DirtyD1833]

Good find! The 8x16 might fit perfectly between the studs if you have the "p hat" style, or you could run 2 of the 12x12 stacked vertically.

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[low277]

I just picked up a Frigadaire 6000 btu window unit with remote for 179.00 from Lowes in Grand Forks, ND.

[Padilen]

Our hot humid weather just broke. It's going to be about 10* cooler and less humid. Maybe I don't need AC after all.


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