Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hank,
I had one of those on a HiLo. they worked great.


McDave,
I'm glad to report that I tweaked my level points as per Your suggestion, cut my 2nd window; and I couldn't be any happier how it turned out. It was much easier and by far more accurate than the 1st one.

You got her on run now Hawk. Just keep chip, chip, chippin away at it. Remember, it's a trailer not a heart/lung machine, so there is probably no real rush to finish. Think about doing each step to the best of your ability, there's no extra points for doing a fast, half assed job. Take your time and do a full assed job, then you'll have something to be proud of. Just sayin'....

McDave

No Weld Window Frame.

I have a "cracker jack" welder, but I'm bad at welding.
This is my 'way-about'.

The 2 windows are 30x20.
3 layers of 3/8" plywood frame.
It works for us.

All outlets, lights, switches, or any thing attached to the inside or outside walls have a solid board backing.

Chuggin along man. Good idea on backing, i will likely do the same, mostly becuase walls will be 1/4". What thickness is your insulation?

Donut757 wrote:Chuggin along man. Good idea on backing, i will likely do the same, mostly becuase walls will be 1/4". What thickness is your insulation?

My walls are about 1 1/4".
Insulation is 3/4" over 1/2"strips.

You will not regret the backing.
Something about screwing into something that is solid!

Yeah itll give much more peace of mind. Strips you put in, i was thinking of using strips to secure insulation, but putting them on the inner side of the insulation, really just to make sure they stay in place. Using 1" insulation was gonna liquid nail strips/backing where needed. Is there any advantage to what side they are used?

Donut757 wrote:but putting them on the inner side of the insulation, really just to make sure they stay in place.

Why on the inner side?

In terms of insulating didnt think that minimal of air gap between outer skin and insulation would make a difference.


Outside of that no reason really???

Donut757 wrote:In terms of insulating didnt think that minimal of air gap between outer skin and insulation would make a difference.


Outside of that no reason really???

Got you.

Where we live (S. Texas), we try to keep the inside AC cooled temperature from the hell that is outside. The air gap and the reflective backing of the insulation helps quite a bit. Please don't confuse that with the worthless reflective wrap.

I chose to allow the Skin some space for condensation and air-out during the 17 days of winter that we get every year. Still, I sealed the inside the best I could using aluminum tape to join all insulation boards. The strips provided the gap and were secured to the skin using masking tape, the board insulation kept the strips in place.

Hader wrote:

Donut757 wrote:In terms of insulating didnt think that minimal of air gap between outer skin and insulation would make a difference.


Outside of that no reason really???

Got you.

Where we live (S. Texas), we try to keep the inside AC cooled temperature from the hell that is outside. The air gap and the reflective backing of the insulation helps quite a bit. Please don't confuse that with the worthless reflective wrap.

I chose to allow the Skin some space for condensation and air-out during the 17 days of winter that we get every year. Still, I sealed the inside the best I could using aluminum tape to join all insulation boards. The strips provided the gap and were secured to the skin using masking tape, the board insulation kept the strips in place.

Lol, the 17 days of winter... im in VA , humidity is awful from May-ish-October... i see your reasoning. I shall adjust my plan. I have had a hard time locally finding anywhere with the foil faced insulation panels locally, have found plenty of unfaced. I have some time to decide, hoping to have skid wherls on and roof done before it gets too cold and then can work on interior over winter/speing.