7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[McDave]

Well, I had a drink or two with Mr. Jameson. And he smoked one of my cigars, I smoked the other. Here's what we came up with.

Something may have changed during the R&R of the safety valve, but we can't know for sure. The fact that the valve will open when thermostat is in broil tells me valve is OK, now.
If the pilot changes from broil to 550 and oven temp is below 500 indicates a bad thermostat. It thinks oven temp is high, therefore it retracts pilot flame to allow thermocouple to cool and close valve.
I don't recall ever seeing a thermostat with different pilot flames for bake and broil, and that doesn't make sense. Safety valve is either open or closed.
It is possible that the thermostat has an "off mode" pilot flame, a "ready mode" ( control on but not calling for heat, cycled off, satisfied) and a heat mode. If this were the case then "ready mode" is what we are seeing when thermostat is set below broil. Again this indicates bad thermostat.
So, That is where I believe we currently stand. I sure hate to "shotgun it" and just throw parts at the problem till it goes away. However, It may be a good idea to replace safety valve anyway since it has been opened up, and it is a "safety". Replacing the pilot makes sense as well. Your already in there and they do corrode and degrade over time and they need to be reliable. But I'm afraid the real bad guy here is the thermostat.
OK, I hope that made sense.

McDave

[flboy]

I think you are right also... The safety was bad until I opened it up.. I had no flame... The bright side is that I'll have new components.. The oven is about 20 years old...

Thanks McDave!

[McDave]

Wow, really 20 yrs? It looks new and modern. I must say if were me, I'd probably skip it and use the oven for storage.
We rarely use the oven at home. Mostly biscuits or frozen pizza. I have learned that the BBQ is about all I need. Crock pot is awesome easy and does make large quantities, so easy leftovers. Dutch oven for camping? Mostly, we eat at bars and restaurants, roadside BBQ's when traveling.
Do you have a Microwave? They can be handy, but not really "good eats".
The only must have for me is coffee asap after waking. If I could have Mr. Coffee when camping, I'd be happy, happy. But they use like 950wt and I don't want to start genny till reasonable time in am. I'm going with a single propane burner and old school percolator. I don't have a real kitchen and space is limited so that's about the only "cooking" going on in there. Micro to heat breakfast burrito's, maybe. Everything else will be outside or restaurant.
Good luck with that, I know it's the last of the systems you have left to repair.
Oh yeah, I installed some of the strip LEDs and remotes from china yesterday over the sink and over the Bar and one 4 ft strip across front at eye level (wall/ceiling junction) and they are great. They really put out the light. I have them turned all the way down, about 5% power and its nice accent light, less than 1wt for 8ft @25%. I am hoping to install more strips in cargo area today. I'm getting close to the end, headliner, 1 wall to cover, ramp insulation and diamond flooring and spare tire mtg. Touch-up and some personalization deco. That's about it.

McDave

[flboy]

Hi McDave. The oven will not get used alot.. but it will be used. At least I want to start out with it working. We'll see long term when I am out for a few months at a time.

I do have a microwave for warming food... I agree... not good eats in the microwave.

The stove/range is in good shape. It was in the donor camper which was a early 90's Elkhorn truck camper. My brother never used the oven.. and the whole thing sat there for years while the camper around it deteriorated. The water heater I refurbished came from it also... along with the ladder, windows, holding tanks, some wiring, propane tanks, kitchen sink, table... and other stuff. Made good use of it all.

Also good to note.. I got a lot of ideas for building the camper by taking apart the donor camper. Been a good experience.


Oh yes.. I do have my LED remotes I bought like the one you have and some LED Strips.. I am going to mount them under the bed frame when I build the bed. Thinking I may also use some in the larger cabinets for lighting when I open the doors.. Will use a small reed switch to turn them on when the door opens.

[McDave]

Hey Don,
I understand your desire to at least start out with it all working. You've put a ton of effort into this build and you really don't compromise on quality or lower you standards, and this won't the toughest nut you've had to crack. Also, I think you enjoy the challenge. We are very similar in that respect.

McDave

[flboy]

I added a valve inline with the gas to the water heater so I can shut the gas off to it without having to shut off the tank and the oven. With electric running off the inverter and solar... no need to keep the pilot on. I can open the valve and hit the switch if I need a fast recovery on the hot water.


BTW... Took my Propane tank down for a fill today. The guy filled it, but said he is not suppose to because it is over 12 years old. I didn't know that (date code stamped on the tank).. This tank is not one you can just exchange.. it is horizontal mount with gages and etc.. That stinks.. hopefully the next place will overlook also.. The tank is in great shape with no rust... I know Scuba tanks have to be inspected yearly and scoped every 2 years.. but they are aluminum and hold 3200 PSI.. I thought Propane tanks were ~200PSI... big difference.

If I run into more issues.. I am just going to buy a normal vertical mount tank.. most likely I'll find one being thrown out with an old grill and exchange it at Blue Rino. :-)

[Padilen]

If you take the tank to a place that fills, not exchange most will fill it. My local hardware guy will if condition of tank & valve is good. I've not heard of getting portable tanks re-certified, but ask around. It may be certification cost's, just cheaper to just replace ? I had a 90# tank that needed new certification. My propane company told me as long as it was in use, they'd fill it. Which I think is opposite of what the certification intended for . But worked for me!


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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Yep, tanks need to be re-certified every so often. Here's a teaser link;
http://www.phmsa.dot.gov/staticfiles/PH ... inders.pdf
Best to find a (Certified), Propane Dealer, one of the one's with the trucks and bigger yard tanks, they will be
able to do your recert. for you. That way you won't have to reconfigure for a vertical tank.

Just an FYI all the propane tanks need to be re-cert'ed every so often different time frames for different types.

hank

[flboy]

Certainly will have to get the tank recertified. It really is a nice tank. I made the mounting hardware tonight after work. I avoided drilling into the frame.

Need to get or make some sort of sleeve to put over the rubber hose. The sun is hard on rubber here in Florida.







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[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Looks like a pita to remove or filling but then it more difficult for someone else to remove it also...

hank

[flboy]

flboy, Howdy;

Looks like a pita to remove or filling but then it more difficult for someone else to remove it also...

hank

Little harder than typical.. but only takes a minute with a 9/16" wratchet wrench. The brackets drop right down. You do need a wrench however.

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[flboy]

I finished building up the sewer hose holder. I'll bolt this under the camper tomorrow . The tray will pull out from under the trailer and will slide back in. Shamelessly borrowing ideas from others on the TNTTT.COM website. Thanks!!!



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[McDave]

That's the 5" post w/gutter tray set up? What is the length of the post? Can you post more pics and maybe a material list and approx. cost?
Thanks!

McDave

[flboy]

That's the 5" post w/gutter tray set up? What is the length of the post? Can you post more pics and maybe a material list and approx. cost?
Thanks!

McDave

Hi McDave. List follows:

4"*4" 6ft Vinyl post - $16.97
2 Pyramid Post Cap - $2.47 ea.
10' Vinyl Gutter - $3.98

$25.98 plus tax.

I cut the piece of gutter to length and also had to cut the lip on one side for it to fit into the 4*4 post properly. I am going to use an adhesive and 4 screws to attach it underneath to the wood decking (really not holding much weight). I'll need to drill some access holes to get the drill into to drive the screws up in the middle. I am going to use 1/2" long pan head wood screws since the decking is 3/4". I plan on leaving the access holes open as they will allow the inside to get air and dry out. Also I'll glue one end cap on with PVC glue and the other I will attach a small cord to so it will come off and press back in.

[Hader]

"I am going to use an adhesive and 4 screws to attach it underneath to the wood decking"?
Isn't there about 4" or more of space between the bottom of the decking and the bottom of the frame?