Intro and title, “motobox that my wife would camp in”

[Rainier70]

Mirage Trailer company also sells their windows. http://www.mirageinc.com/trailer-windows

[BigDave_185]

Ordered new windows on amazon, cheapest for shipping and widows I could see. Should be here in a few days. See if I can get frames welded in before they show up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BigDave_185]

Does anyone have a suggestion for these and insulation?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McDave]

Hey Dave,
Those are just backers to screw the ATP to? I guess just cut and stuff as best you can. Maybe use spray foam if necessary. Here is a link to a supplier for canopy kits and all sort of supplies if you consider building your own awning or screen room etc.. You may get some ideas from them.
https://www.creativeshelters.com/

McDave

[BigDave_185]

Hell for the cost of the one on amazon I might just order it. I just wish it was closer to 20 ft long for the price of 12 feet

I foamed around the screw plates just want sure if someone else came up with a better option.

Windows due Wednesday!!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BigDave_185]

Pardon the long photo but it covers it pretty well



So I simplified my process a bit with a ridged shop vacuum and the help of my table saw from Dewalt. Pre measured all of my stud and lengths. Wrote them on the wall in large numbers so I could see them from the door. Pre cut all of my sheets and simply pushed them into place.

I need to run an extra wire for my reverse lights on the trailer.
This portion has me slightly lost. I know which wire is reverse from my truck plug, the cut it off at the factory on the seven pin plug in the junction box. So that gives me reverse lights power but what do I do for the other leg of the lights? Per say I order a set of pod LED lights I have two wires. Do I just simply ground them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McDave]

Yes, you can use a "chassis ground" or/and the ground from the 7pin connector. Pin# 1, should be white. make sure that #1/white is bonded to the trailer chassis somewhere. You can use a buss bar to run grounds from if you want to use 2 wire runs. #1white to chassis and buss bar, then all other grounds to buss or chassis. Sometimes it is not easy to find a chassis ground where your appliance/light etc. will be located.

McDave

[BigDave_185]

Copy that McDave, need to order some lights also

Someone posted some the other day that looked good. Pod lights Maybe I’ll find a amazon light bar something o another.

Looks like I need some 2 inch insulation board for the ramp



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McDave]

I used these for back up lights on trailer. Very Bright!
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-60001F-B ... 4CS3KPHARY

They really work well. People get out of your way and you can see in the mirror where your tail end is headed. I have a switch inside also so I can use as ramp lights.

McDave

[BigDave_185]

I just ordered the big brother of those. 12 inch bar.

Nilight NI06A-72W 12Inch 12 Inch 72W Spot Flood Combo Bar Off Road Boat Driving Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE46ZWC/re ... hEb8GQ597X

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McDave]

That'll work! Oh Lawd.... They'll think a freight train is comin thru

McDave

[rjgimp]

When I boondock in the wintertime, I use a cheap 5k watt Chinese diesel heater that will heat up my trailer from 30 degrees to 70 degrees in about 30 minutes before I idle it down to its lowest setting of about 1,300 watts. Even at the lowest setting, I have to open windows extra wide to keep the temperature at a comfortable 70 degrees. I love my diesel heater. Extremely fuel and amps efficient.

you running a diesel heater in a trailer? Picture please


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Atomic77 put one in the Astroliner and he loves it. Discussion starts on about page 87 of his build.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=61140&start=1290

[troubleScottie]

For those not familiar with diesel heaters, there are generally an external mounted device that burns diesel fuel to heat air. The heated air is in a completely separate channel, so no fuel or combustion products are mixed in. There are generally for tubes: an intake and exhaust for the burner and an intake and exhaust for the heated air. Depending on the model/specifications, the air intake is external or internal to the cabin area. Generally it is safer to have an external air intake. However heating very cold air can be problematic.

All system need an electric power source to run the burner, thermostat and fan. Generally 12VDC.

Some have the capability to heat water also.

There are gasoline and propane versions of these systems. Espar and Propex to name a few.

The biggest negative of the diesel model is the need to carry yet another fuel. Of course if the tow vehicle is diesel, you have a ready fuel source. Same could be said for the propane if you do not have a propane source already. Propane heater use about 1 lb per 3 hours assuming it is running on high all the time. So 60 hour on 20 lb tank. Typically weeks with average usage.

The diesel burners do age and might/will require replacement.

These heaters can be installed inside the cabin also. The con to that is they take up space with the unit, the connections and a safety zone. Though technically removable, they should be considered a permanent installation.

[BigDave_185]

Thank you so much for the information. I appreciate it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BigDave_185]

First set of windows arrived today. 30x24’s. I have the glass, the window trim for inside the trailer but what I do not see is hardware? Is it standard to not shop with hardware?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk