7x16 Cargo Camper

[pvangel]

Yep, looks great!!!!
This statement is so true, All those trips to Home Depot for minor things really add up. I thought my budget was ok but everytime I need a "few" things it's $100 and there have been quite a few trips like that. I have kept every receipt and if I can get the guts to do it I will post it in my build...

[roadinspector]

Nice job!! I always go over budget no matter what. Oh well, it will all be worth it when I finish. I started out keeping receipts then it started to scare me & quit.
Earnest

[Jacquie]

Mark519,
Beautiful job! How much has the whole project cost in your estimation? We have a teardrop and have been considering trying this out.

[aggie79]

Mark519,
Beautiful job! How much has the whole project cost in your estimation? We have a teardrop and have been considering trying this out.

Mark, I echo what everyone else said - great job!

I really like your cabinetry and use of space. Sometime could you tell us a little more as to how you made the doors and what type of cabinet latch you used?

Take care,
Tom

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hi Mark

I was gonna Install a large tool box sorta like yours....on Version 2.0
Then dustboy scared me with turning radius problems....

Since I cant weld like you - its the Lowe's special truck box only

photo 2-2.JPG (138.77 KiB) Viewed 19225 times

I noticed you have a extra long hitch ?
any thoughts on that topic.....
I was mainly going for looks only & could take box off if needed ?

Thanks Jerry

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hi Mark

Here is an idea, lets say you mount the box on a 30" drawer side,
that would give you the option to side the box 15" in either direction.Right or left as needed.

The box would normally sit at the 15" extension and would be locked down with some kind of pin ?
or maybe get a longer 40 - 50" drawer slide if there is one, depending on need.

a Drawyer slide.png (245.97 KiB) Viewed 19189 times

Jerry

[Mark519]

Thanks! I estimate this whole thing cost something over $25K. Obviously I have a lot of high end components and it is possible to build a very functional trailer for FAR less as many people have done on this forum. It did turn out to cost a lot more than I expected though.

I have made a few more refinements over the past months. First, I installed fold out steps. I was able to cut the side of the trailer out and set them up so they do not hang any lower than the graywater tank.




Now that the weather warmed up I discovered that the coin mat expands. I had bolted everything down on top of it including the D-Ring mounts. So I had to cut it all around but the gap is not that noticeable and now it's much easier to replace if ever necessary.



Instead of a built in awning I attached stainless steel marine loops to the upper edge and got a 10x15' tarp and poles. It isn't that much trouble to setup since I can easily jump onto the roof by first jumping onto my generator box. Thankfully the box is strong enough for that. Take down is even easier- just pull the rope out.



See the thing that says AutoNet? It is a wifi to cellular router. It is connected to a Wilson cellular power booster and external antenna for extra range. Translation: I can get my email, and my kids can play online minecraft on their kindles while we are driving or camping - except in remote areas far out of cell range. Peace and quiet well worth $29/mo.



Photos of the finished trailer:



The gen box is ventilated by two 3" bilge blowers. You can see one on the left but the other is in the center of the gen box behind the gas cans and not visible. They both bring fresh air in. I will have to wait for a really hot day to test it but I think it will work sufficiently. Also see the silver box on the right hand side of the generator frame... that is the AVR. I moved it out of the head so it would be cooler and hopefully not die from excess heat like the first one.


The screen above the fridge allows its heat to escape (and it is a noticeable amount). Cool air comes in under the fridge. Shower curtain was treated with Kiwi Camp Dry to repel water.





The 5" foam can compress all the way down so I am going to have to use thermorest mattresses under it. Unfortunately there isn't any extra space in the fold up compartment so the thermorests will have to be stored somewhere else. I should have made the side cabinets all 10" deep instead of 8".




There are a few more photos on photobucket. For instance, the cabinet latches (SouthCo).
http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/mark519/library/?sort=2&page=1

[rebapuck]

Great looking conversion.

Would it not be easier to just replace the mattresses with a different foam? I have a 6" foam from an upholstry shop. There is no compressing at all. Almost too firm.

[Mark519]

Rebapuck, Thanks! I sort of gave up but after what you say may have to research it and buy some and experiment. The materials aren't cheap though. I recently bought a 2" latex topper for my home mattress and really like it because it helps prevent pressure points but does provide support (unlike memory foam). My camper foam is comfortable but too much weight in one spot can touch bottom after a little while. Perhaps a layered mattress may be the best solution. Maybe 3" like what you have that doesn't compress much if any, and then 2" soft like latex. I only have 5" of space and not a bit more. Do you know the specifications of the foam you bought? Thanks!

[Mark519]

It has been a while since I have posted so I have some updates!

I replaced the plain yellow foam in my mattress with foam rubber and latex. I used 2" of Premium Medium High Density under 3" of Talalay Latex, glued with spray contact cement. The premium has a lot more bounce and lasts a lot longer than plain foam. You can find the foam rubber here: http://www.foamforyou.com/Open_Cell_Foam.htm and probably locally but since these guys documented it so well I ordered it from them. I would have preferred 3" of foam rubber but this combination does just barely prevent bottoming out. Talalay latex is very soft but also supportive but quite expensive. I bought it on Amazon here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOTITSI. I have to say if you have discomfort while sleeping on a regular bed, this Talalay topper is worth every penny and I bought one for my home bed also.

[Mark519]

GENERATOR UPGRADE
I had an inexpensive gas generator and it work fine but I wanted something better. Since my truck and heater are diesel, I wanted a diesel generator to simplify my fuel requirements and because gasoline is a lot more flammable. I found a diesel generator that fits and although it was considerably more expensive, I got it on clearance. Baldor recently sold its generator division to Generac and I picked up a Baldor DG3E for $2570. The alternator is American made by Baldor and the engine is German made by Hatz. Subaru/Robin, Yanmar, Pramac also make comparable quality units but either don't have electric start or are even louder according to the specs. This unit is quite loud but being in the box helps. I am considering the best sound absorbing lining to the box, and looking for an exhaust resonator. I made minimal modifications to the generator so that I could easily return it to stock. My remote control has some relays to latch power on and off with a momentary rotary switch. The starting power is supplied from the house battery.

Not over sizing a diesel is important because diesel engines like to run loaded or they tend to foul the injectors. The DG3E is rated at 3000W/25A and weighs 170lbs. My AC draws a running load of 10A so I may need to plug in a space heater to bring up the load. It should run 8+ hours on a tank (2.75 gallons) and should run off any nearby campers!

[Mark519]

Here is a video of it starting up! The sound you hear first is the bilge blowers which bring in fresh air.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Mark

Damn nice set up I'm jealous every time I see it !!

Would make a nice back up just in case my solar goes out
My large tool box on the short tongue turns 90 deg just fine.

Great job.

[Mark519]

Thanks Jerry!

BTW, I made some changes due to the extreme cold (9F) we had here recently. My plumbing compartment is on the floor in a dead air space so it started to freeze up. I cut vent holes so air would circulate naturally, and added a small computer fan if that doesn't work. I leave a space heater in the trailer to keep it at 50F. I use this type of thermostat which works a lot better than the space heater control: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ My plumbing could be drained and blown out but I think there would still be water trapped in it so winterizing means keeping it warm.

[Mark519]

VENTILATION CONTINUED
As I mentioned above I added a computer fan to my plumbing compartment to bring in warmer air during freezing weather. Subsequently I added an intake duct to the fan (flexible aluminum dryer tube) to positively bring in air from the living space. My electric heater keeps the air at 50 degrees inside and the duct and fan keep the plumbing comfortable above freezing now. I also added a thermostat switch (Senasys on at 35 off at 45 deg F) so this operates automatically.

Now, on to the generator ventilation which was running too hot. The problem with a generator in a box is that the inside air gets over 150 deg F and that air is circulated to cool the engine. So I built an intake box which fits over the engine fan and directs outside air into the engine. I used aluminum sheet and an EPDM seal to build it. This makes a big difference on the cylinder head temperature. The only problem is the starter cord is now trapped inside the intake box but with electric start I should not need it.

Intake box is on right hand side against engine. It brings in air from the bottom.


I originally had two bilge blowers but they weren't really doing the job. So I changed to an 8" 12VDC automotive radiator fan and experimented to bring in cool air, or reversed to blow out hot air. It actually worked better to bring in cool air but each situation may be different. I don't want to cut vents in the sides or top of the enclosure because that would let more noise out so I put the 8" fan in the base under the generator and the exhaust also goes out the bottom on the sides. I would have gone with a larger fan (they come in sizes up to 16") but I was kind of limited on the fit. I will have to wait until summer gets here to really test all this and see if additional modifications are needed.

Automotive type radiator fan brings in air from the bottom.


My advice for anyone planning on running a gen in a box is to measure the inside air temp and cylinder head temp and use an intake box for engine cooling, and an automotive type radiator fan for ventilation. Your genset may survive higher temps for a while but it will certainly shorten its life. Also wrap the exhaust pipe.