6x12 V-Nose Build

[lrrowe]

Abqlloyd has me considering this option also. But I would go with a smaller (less tall) unit so as to fit in my standard counter height.

[abqlloyd]

Lowes has a smaller version. The yellow label claims 225kw per year. It is counter height and Energy Star rated.

[abqlloyd]

The ARB is amazing and pulls about 24 amps a day. For twice the amps I get far more useable capacity and functionally at about 1/4 the price. I paid $179 on special.

I wired up a transfer switch to my inverter. Before I head out I can plug the trailer into shore power and chill it down good. Two golf cart batteries and just one panel ran it fine. I am still debating on keeping both panels. I just bought two more batteries as well.

If you look at the yellow energy labels, you can get an 11cf Energy Star apartment fridge that claims 350kw hours for $600 at Lowes. Once a unit is chilled the additional energy is minimal. Larger units usually have more insulation, and there is a fixed requirement to run a compressor anyway. If I was living in a big motor home I would have to seriously consider that option over a $2000 RV fridge.

They are installing these in remote parts of the world for medicine storage. There's a company that sells turn-key solar refrigeration for medial settings for about $10,000!

[lrrowe]

Is this the one at Lowe's you are referring to?

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?par ... &cId=PDIO1

[abqlloyd]

That looks like the one. The label on your link claims 265kw, but i bet those specs change all the time. That is still less than a kW per day. One good panel will run it 24/7 in my part of the country.

Since I'm not interested in running it 24/7, I have some flexibility. We used to pre-chill the gas fridge in the old days. It ran on 12v while driving. In the 80's a three way fridge was a few hundred bucks, and there weren't too many options. Today, with a small investment in a good panel and controller, there are options.

[lrrowe]

Now it is a matter of waiting for a sale price as it is not needed today.

[abqlloyd]

Almost everything I've bought has been though Amazon with American Express points or it's been on sale. That's one advantage of building. If I had to do a quick build it would cost more. The other advantage to Amazon is the email alerts of huge sales on related products. Last month they had Blue Sea stuff at a huge discount. If they hadn't sent me an email I might have missed the sale.

Locally I've bought misc hardware, the fridge, and the batteries.

[abqlloyd]

20 day data update:
The above fridge has averaged .48kW per day. I opened a coupe times a day, but on a weekend trip it would probably get opened more. During the summer and with more frequent use I think .75kw per day is reasonable estimate.

[abqlloyd]

My Prowatt sine wave is pretty darn efficient, and I'm thinking 2.5 to 3.0 amps DC per hour is a conservative number.

[DustinS]

I do have to ask, and since you live in New Mexico (by my guess), it will be helpful with your input. How much heat are you getting off the fridge, and does/would it cause issues with the inside of the trailer heating up in summer? Any special requirements for the fridges ventilation? Any condensation issues?

My idea is to insulate a trailer (7x14 is most likely size, rigid foil faced or pink with a foil layer insulation) and get a fridge similar to yours for perishables (meats, dairy, ect) that would only contain food. I was looking at a roof vent (maybe two) with a fan as ventilation. My goal would be to try and keep the inside of the trailer around the high 60's to low-mid 70's all year around (when used). Thanks for your input.

[abqlloyd]

That's a very good question which I haven't really thought much about. I do have the big fantastic fan and planned on a computer fan at the rear to keep air circulating.

I'm insulated with XPS 1" in the walls and 2" under the floor. The roof has 1" now but I think it will be 1.5 or 2 when I'm done. The seams are all taped. I did have the side vents installed - one low and one high - and am running a fan 24/7 right now just to keep air flowing. I suppose if it gets too hot I could vent out the back of my appliance stack.

Now you've got me curious.

[DustinS]

That's a very good question which I haven't really thought much about. Now you've got me curious.

I'm young (25) and not very experienced so I'm glad I could have something to contribute to the general knowledge here. I was thinking if you had a garage or building you could use to control the "outside" temp then you could put the test with a base of the fridge not running and vents closed, then the fridge running vents closed, and vents open fridge running, lastly vents open fridge not running. That should cover the basis and provide usable data for others with and without roof vents. What do you think?

[dustboy]

I reckon it's a negligible heat gain, the heat you feel from the condenser coil started outside the fridge anyway, and is just being moved from the inside to the outside where it can't warm up your prune juice. There will be a small amount of heat that comes from the compressor motor, but it's a drop in the bucket compared to the ABQ sun.

[abqlloyd]

So ends this thread. Hit black ice today on plains of Texas, and was hit from behind by a semi. Total loss.

Trailer ripped from truck and flipped upside down. Safety chains were no match for 70,000 pounds of semi.

Bummed.

[Rocky5000100]

Oh no that is terrible!

Any idea if insurance will cover anything? Is your vehicle okay?