7x16 Conversion from Georgia

[flboy]

Nice Job Martin. Is the AC just going to slide in then you want to use it and have a door to cover the opening?

[m.colley]

Don,
Yes it'll slide in as needed and a door/flap will cover the hole when not installed. I'm borrowing a idea from Mtn Don for the rack it'll sit on when installed but I'm making mine so that it'll fold down flat when not needed. I hope to get it roughed out after work tomorrow, test fit it, then get it painted.


Martin

[chiefairwrench]

That looks awesome. Starting back on my trailer this weekend. Looking like you are very close to finishing

[m.colley]

That looks awesome. Starting back on my trailer this weekend. Looking like you are very close to finishing

Hiya Chief, long time no see. Yes, I'm getting close to being done with the major stuff. I still have the AC rack to finish and the folding bed to build but I'm not in a hurry for the bed, a air mattress will do for now. The rack is about half way done, I hope to have it done before the weekend gets here. I need to go to Lowes tomorrow after work and pickup a small piece of 16 gauge flate plate to make a pivot for the rack. I test fit the rack tonight and had to change the bolt placement on one pair but the rest of it worked as I envisioned it.

What have you got planned for your build?


Martin

[m.colley]

I got the AC support rack finished and installed. I borrowed an idea from Mtn Don's build in my design but made mine collapsible for travel and when I need to fold done the ramp. I temporarily installed the AC for pictures as I still need to fabricate a couple of trim pieces but heres what my install looks like.

This is the rack installed as it would be with the AC installed.

Here's a picture of it folded down.

and one with the AC installed in the hole I cut.


I'll work on making the door to cover the hole this week.


Martin

[flboy]

Wow! nice work Martin. I really like that. Nice design.

[McDave]

Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner!!!! I really like it. That design looks ready for retail production. I can see em' flying off the shelves at Trailer Mart for the low, low, price of 149.99. + shipping and handling. (Lots of handling...) Some assembly required.
But wait, there's more. If you are one of the first 100 callers in the next 15 minutes we'll include Won Hung Low's "Hernia Buster 2000" and a free pair of steel toed flip- flops. Supplies may be limited, so don't delay.
Ramp Door Rack and Hernia Buster are registered trademarks from m.collie inc. A division WTF justhappened enterprises.

Rack em', Stack em', Smack em on the Bing Bong!

Nice Job!

McDave

[chiefairwrench]

NICE

[m.colley]

Thanks guys for the compliments. I gotta admit I struggled with it for awhile. I wanted it in the ramp so that it would blow from end to end, I wanted it as high as possible to better pull the heat out since heat rises and cold air falls but I also needed to still be able to use the ramp. I looked at a lot of designs that I've seen on various builds, then I came up on Mtn Don's AC install. I knew it would work if I could fold the rack flat when I had the ramp down for loading purposes.
Then the idea came that instead of welding it completely in (like on Mtn Don's) I could fold it if I used nuts & bolts and some hitch pins. It took longer to build than expected because I'm not the best welder but I took my time and it came out pretty decent. Now on to building the flap/door and getting the CTC cleaned out so that we can field test everything. The wife is about to drive me bat sh** crazy about going camping.


Martin

[hankaye]

m.colley, Howdy;

Never ceases to amaze me at the inventiveness that the folks on the forum display
on such a regular basis. WOW!!! Like rocks in a tumbler, roll'em around enough and
you'll find the gems...

hank

[m.colley]

m.colley, Howdy;

Never ceases to amaze me at the inventiveness that the folks on the forum display
on such a regular basis. WOW!!! Like rocks in a tumbler, roll'em around enough and
you'll find the gems...

hank

Howdy back there hankaye,
Same here, its one of the reasons I love this forum. We can borrow ideas from others, mold/change them to fit our needs and noone gets their drawers in a wad for borrowing their designs. Hell, most of us even take it as a compliment when someone does . I did learn one thing for the short amount of time I had the AC in & running. Its gonna cool my little 7x16 down nicely

The best thing in all is the cost involved in doing it. If I remember correctly I've got less than $250.00 involved in the total setup, including the new AC unit.
BTW, if anyone is ever looking for steel for building projects, see if you have a PVF Supply store around you. The 16 gauge 1x1 I bought cost me less than .50 cent a foot for a 20ft stick and they cut it in half so I could get it home.


Martin

[msnglinc]

Here's a couple of pictures of my plumbing setup for my tank-less water heater hookup. I took a outside shower box and mounted it, gutting the shower setup. I installed a couple of faucets meant for hooking up a washing machine.



Inside my hook up looks something like this.


The gate valve will let me shut off the flow of cold water to the tank-less water heater in the event its not hooked up outside. That way I'll still have cold water to the sink faucet if needed. I plan to hang/install the tank-less just above the city/gravity water inlet.


Six foot long hoses will give me plenty of height above the inlet/outlet box. I'm waiting for the water heater before I decide what kind of mount to make for it. I know they advise it to have two inches of space between the backside of it and its mounting surface. I'm thinking I may use two thick pieces of unistrut channel spread across two wall studs to hang it from. We'll figure that out once it gets here.


Martin

This is what I am doing as well for hot water by using a tankless hung outside. I was just going to drop my lines out of the floor and use dry break connectors but like the shower door set up you have. Might have to cut my lines and redo them now. Good thing I used CPVC.

[m.colley]

[This is what I am doing as well for hot water by using a tankless hung outside. I was just going to drop my lines out of the floor and use dry break connectors but like the shower door set up you have. Might have to cut my lines and redo them now. Good thing I used CPVC.

I thought about doing the same thing and saving the $30.00 bucks I spent but I liked the look of the shower box, it gave it a more finished look.


Martin

[flboy]

Martin, I have borrowed a router table and will be starting to build cabinet doors in the next week. What thickness is the frame wood that you used? I have some 3/4 in, but that seems too thick. I am thinking I should find 1/2 in.? Thoughts? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

[m.colley]

Martin, I have borrowed a router table and will be starting to build cabinet doors in the next week. What thickness is the frame wood that you used? I have some 3/4 in, but that seems too thick. I am thinking I should find 1/2 in.? Thoughts? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Hey Don,
If your asking about the material I used for the door frames then Yes, I used 3/4". I ripped down 1x4 or 1x6 lumber to get my 2" width. I used simple whitewood (spruce) but if I had it to do all over again I'd probably spend the few xtra $$$$ and by poplar, ecspecially if I was painting it. Poplar is straighter and has a nicer finish.


Martin