HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[McDave]

I like it. onehoser....Must be Canadian. They got some smart cookies up there. Some goof balls too.... Just sayin'...

McDave

[onehoser]

I like it. onehoser....Must be Canadian. They got some smart cookies up there. Some goof balls too.... Just sayin'...

McDave

lol, in many cases hypothermia is known to cause a 'confused' state.

[Tommy B]

If you are bored.

This is as good as it will get here. However.. Hank you were right, these hose clamp fittings are questionable maybe. I have been down here tidying it all up. Trim, tighten, rewire, stuff. So When done I pressurized the lines to inspect all plumbing. A drip form from the hose clamp fitting. Will tighten or replace with the good shark bite type 1/2 inch pex connectors.

[Tommy B]

One other thing. There was problem with the progressive battery charging wizard. At first it read 12.4 and I have not seen it that low ever. But after going over all connections and fuses AND a ground connection, it popped up to this and is staying there for now any way. 1 hour or three, Maybe.

Gremilns, Right? But I think I got it.

[Tommy B]

Darn its about a tablespoon every hour. Must replace all 4 hose clamps. Don't deviate from what you no works. Those fittings may be pricey but they work.

Battery is voltage is still reading 13.5 so it did need a charge. Was bad ground. Improper hardware. Fixed That any way.

[flboy]

Tommy, I have Pex crimps and the tool if you want to just put the crmps on before you spend all the $ on the sharkbite connectors. I've not had any leaks where I used crimps yet. They all have been on screw on connections to faucets or etc..

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[Tommy B]

Should do it. The right way.

still waiting on pick up of bad cooler and delivery of replacement. 700 bucks it better work now or I am done with it.


Have good day.

[Tommy B]

Don I would have taken you up on that Had I seen you post prior to ordering those fittings. At the cost.

I have a question please. I am not sure about the reading from this meter. When it said 12.5 I went out and checked the battery and it read 12.9/13.0.
I rechecked the connections in the trailer and it popped up to 13.5 and pretty much stayed there. Maybe 13.1

But then I plugged in the new replacement cooler and 13.1 dropped down to 12.5. It seemed to count down methodically to 12.5. I unplug the cooler and it went back up. Plugged it back in and down it went. The compressor was running though. It held temp all night and was still working this morning. The meter and 12 volt socket are wired to the auxiliary DC BUSS which is wired directly to the battery. So the cooler is pulling from the battery and is not running through the progressive power center. Just info.

Is this normal? I thought the reading would stay at 13.1 as the progressive power center compensated and added charge to the battery.

I will take a volt meter to the 12 volt outlet next to the meter and to the battery when I get home today but to see that drop so fast when plugging in the cooler concerned me.

[flboy]

Tommy, based on what you are saying, and because the meter is near the load, it is possible you are dropping the difference in the wiring. The way to check is to measure at the battery when the fridge is on.

In any case, the drop on the battery when you plug in is somewhat normal however and will degrade over time as the battery gets older. My battery bank drops about the same unless the converter is online to hold it up.

Don't get too concerned yet. I think everything you are seeing is in the realm of normal. You battery is not new and prior to buying the meter to monitor, you may have taken some life out of it by running it down too far before recharging.

Edit note: I'd have to read the details on your power center to see when it kicks in and etc. You need to check the outlet and the battery when it is running to see if you a getting a drop. Other than the fact that with the power center on that the voltage is 12.5 when the fridge is on... the rest appears "normal" . You really do need to make measurements at the battery and the fridge when it is running to see what is going on there.

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[Tommy B]

WOW! Figured it out by observation, the volt meter AND the cooler instructions. Talk about a schooling.
The voltage meter that I thought was wacky is fine and has been all along.
You may see any number between 13.6 to 11.4. I may have even seen 14 once after the trailer set around the side of the house for a few weeks.
12.8 seems to be a charged resting state though.

When the C.T is just on battery power and the meter reads 12.8 and the cooler compressor comes on, the meter drops to 11.4! This activates the cooler compressor SHUT OFF if the battery monitor is set on high. You MUST set it on low were the shut off is 10.1 I think.
the meter stays at 11.4 the whole time the compressor is running but jumps up to 12.7/12.8 when it turns off.

When your hooked up to shore power the numbers are different. I came home from work and was hooked up to shore power. The meter read 13.5/13.6. The real battery voltage at the terminals was 12.8.

I am just getting to know the unit but I did all this with the first one and it made no difference.

I an encouraged, I think it works now. The real TEST will be tomorrow 24 hours later. I also left the maxx air fan on 2 clicks up from low so we shell see what the battery voltage is at the terminals then.

[flboy]

When the C.T is just on battery power and the meter reads 12.8 and the cooler compressor comes on, the meter drops to 11.4! This activates the cooler compressor SHUT OFF if the battery monitor is set on high. You MUST set it on low were the shut off is 10.1 I think.
the meter stays at 11.4 the whole time the compressor is running but jumps up to 12.7/12.8 when it turns off. :

Tommy, when the compressor comes on and the meter drops to 11.4, what does the voltage read at the battery? You may be dropping a volt in your line... Reason why I am asking is because a volt seems like a bit much for that size load? It would make more sense to me if the battery was dropping about a half volt and the remainder was in the line...

In any case... I don't think anything is major wrong.... it could be optimized some possibly... I am just curious what the battery is doing relative to the voltage you are seeing on the fixed meter by you plug.

[Tommy B]

Hey Don, any body.

After leaving the cooler AND maxx air fan on dc battery only for 14 hours the voltage at the battery posts read 12.54. down from 12.75 at the start. The cooler read 33 degrees. It is set at 37 degrees. Goes app. + or minus 3 or 4 degrees. Never under 33 though.

When the compressor kicks on the meter still reads 11.4, BUT out at the battery posts it reads 12.37. Down from 12.54.

Why the big difference. It does not make sense. The meter in the trailer and the hand held meter at the posts are in agreement until the compressor kicks on.

When I get home, I will plug the cooler into the other dc outlet on the bathroom wall. Make the compressor come on and watch the voltage meter in the C.T. If it falls to 12.0 or so I know its that outlet that fails when A load is applied. If it too falls to 11.4 than I don't know what to think.

It is interesting that 11.4 is mid range for the cooler battery monitor shut off selection though. L=10.1 MED=11.4 HIGH=11.8.

DON any body, What do you think.
ALSO, the unit can run on 12/24 dc it says. If my progressive battery charger spikes to 13.5-14 when charging, can it damage the unit. It said to disconnect the cooler when Using a quick charging device. Do I have to?

[Tommy B]

This unit/ model is Dometic CFX-65DZUS Portable Electric Cooler
rated dc current is 5.5 amps. From what I read It can draw the full amount when Warm But IT tappers off as it cools down. So may be 1.3 AMPS when cool is the norm.

But why would the battery terminals read 12.37, down from 12.5, when the compressor kicks on, when the C.T battery shows 11.4, down from 12.5, When the compressor kicks on?

It appears to use very little juice in a 14 hour period. read 12.54, down from 12.7, at the battery posts this morning. That was with the max air fan running on low too. The temp is set at 37 degrees and it maintains it well.

May be this is how it is.

[flboy]

It makes sense... when the compressor kicks on, current starts flowing in your wire and voltage is dropped proportional to the resistance on the wire and amount of current drawn. If there is no current, there will be no drop. It is basic Ohms Law.

What gage wire are you using? You could use a heavier gage wire and solder all your connections and it will improve.

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[Tommy B]

16 gauge. Thank you for replying Don.
But sill if the battery only shows a drop of 0.25 volts or so and the inside meter shows a drop of 1.4 volts how is that possible? As the battery is not losing that much. How can you loose 1.4 volts at the unit when the battery is only giving up 0.25 volts app.?
I will take you word for it!

it seems in the norm per spec but I don't get it.

Thank you very much Don.
If all is ok and I think it is, I like the unit so far. But can it handle a spike of 13.5 to 14.0 when the charger kicks in or should I disconnect and plug into the AC side when charging with the genny?
It would be easy to do.