Haulmark type cargo trailer as a shell
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 4:08 pmIf I didn't already have a trailer I'd want to start camping right away.
If I didn't live in a mild climate and/or have a garage for storage I'd want something that could be left outdoors for years without worry.
I'm afraid of the amount of work required for finish carpentry so the idea of someone else making cabinets is appealing.
After renting a U-haul cargo trailer last week I realized how I miss my pickup but the trailer was even better for hauling a dining room set.
Where is all this rambling going? To a non-teardrop shaped TTT that would be affordable, quick to get camping, and versitile. Zero issues with weatherproofing, hatch seals, etc. As fancy or simple as you want inside.
It starts with a 5'x 8' or 10' utility trailer. They cost about $3,000 for a top quality base model around here but the prices go up as you add options. Almost new but used on Craigslist I've seen them for about half that. Stock ceiling heights are usually about 60" with an 18" deck and 81" overall height for garagability in a standard 7' door. From looking at various models from Wells Cargo, Haulmark, Hiway Cargo etc they apear as aerodynamic as possible for a basic box.
These trailers are available in even foot width increments. If you want to sleep crosswise the 6' wide version gives 69" between the interior paneling. If you eliminate the paneling in the bed area and use thin foam for insulation glued to the aluminum sidewalls you could get 71" clear. Otherwise you need to go 7' wide for crosswise sleeping or plan on sleeping lengthwise, in which case it makes more sense to go back to the 5' width if you're towing with a car.
If ordering new you can get all sorts of options like different roof heights, RV style side doors & windows, insulation packages, etc. Prices are fairly reasonable for these upgrades. I tried pricing out a Haulmark Cub 5x10 with dual rear doors, 6' headroom, full insulation, RV side door with window & screen door, roof vent, some aluminum tread plate goodies like stone guard and side panels, three 29"x26" radius torque RV windows and electric brakes for about $4600.
You could throw your mattress and camping gear in and head out right away. Then as time permits you could finish out the interior.
With a side door for bedroom access you could do a full teardrop style rear kitchen and even include cabinets on the rear doors. Cabinets could be had from Home Depot or a custom cabinet shop.
I trust these cargo trailers to stand the test of time a lot better than typical RV's. Although not as cute as a TD, the look appeals to me better than a conventional RV. They offer drop floor areas or if buying used you could retrofit. With some creativity I could get one with 67" interior headroom that would fit under my 89" garage door then do a dropped floor area to get standing headroom. Keeping it small enough you would still get that "you sleep in that!?" response from the big RV crowd.
The base trailer for a 5x10 weighs about 1000 pounds. Obviously options and interior appointments add up- I think it would be reasonable to end up with 1500 pounds before adding your gear.
If I didn't live in a mild climate and/or have a garage for storage I'd want something that could be left outdoors for years without worry.
I'm afraid of the amount of work required for finish carpentry so the idea of someone else making cabinets is appealing.
After renting a U-haul cargo trailer last week I realized how I miss my pickup but the trailer was even better for hauling a dining room set.
Where is all this rambling going? To a non-teardrop shaped TTT that would be affordable, quick to get camping, and versitile. Zero issues with weatherproofing, hatch seals, etc. As fancy or simple as you want inside.
It starts with a 5'x 8' or 10' utility trailer. They cost about $3,000 for a top quality base model around here but the prices go up as you add options. Almost new but used on Craigslist I've seen them for about half that. Stock ceiling heights are usually about 60" with an 18" deck and 81" overall height for garagability in a standard 7' door. From looking at various models from Wells Cargo, Haulmark, Hiway Cargo etc they apear as aerodynamic as possible for a basic box.
These trailers are available in even foot width increments. If you want to sleep crosswise the 6' wide version gives 69" between the interior paneling. If you eliminate the paneling in the bed area and use thin foam for insulation glued to the aluminum sidewalls you could get 71" clear. Otherwise you need to go 7' wide for crosswise sleeping or plan on sleeping lengthwise, in which case it makes more sense to go back to the 5' width if you're towing with a car.
If ordering new you can get all sorts of options like different roof heights, RV style side doors & windows, insulation packages, etc. Prices are fairly reasonable for these upgrades. I tried pricing out a Haulmark Cub 5x10 with dual rear doors, 6' headroom, full insulation, RV side door with window & screen door, roof vent, some aluminum tread plate goodies like stone guard and side panels, three 29"x26" radius torque RV windows and electric brakes for about $4600.
You could throw your mattress and camping gear in and head out right away. Then as time permits you could finish out the interior.
With a side door for bedroom access you could do a full teardrop style rear kitchen and even include cabinets on the rear doors. Cabinets could be had from Home Depot or a custom cabinet shop.
I trust these cargo trailers to stand the test of time a lot better than typical RV's. Although not as cute as a TD, the look appeals to me better than a conventional RV. They offer drop floor areas or if buying used you could retrofit. With some creativity I could get one with 67" interior headroom that would fit under my 89" garage door then do a dropped floor area to get standing headroom. Keeping it small enough you would still get that "you sleep in that!?" response from the big RV crowd.
The base trailer for a 5x10 weighs about 1000 pounds. Obviously options and interior appointments add up- I think it would be reasonable to end up with 1500 pounds before adding your gear.
