Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello,

I've been eyeballing teardrops and other small trailer options for years. For some reason, I had always considered a cargo trailer to be too heavy. Then I realized they're only margainlly heavier than most 5x8 tears. A Carry-On 5x8 weighs 890-lbs. I could even get a 5x10 and gain a side door and two more feet of floor space at 930-lbs. I cannot go too heavy because of my tow rig:



With a cargo trailer purchase being fairly easy and convenient, I may actually make a move this year! My goal is to have something in which I can haul my wheels and tools for autocross events, have a dry, shady retreat to relax at the events (electricity and air conditioning would be awesome), a way to move things too large to fit in the car (no more than 500-lbs), and, lastly, an enclosed unit which could be used for camping. I've only camped once since I was a kid. Who knows? Perhaps the camping will really take off with my daughter and we'll do it more frequently than I expect.

Enough blabbing! I came to ask a question or two:

1) I've learned a lot about insulating the interior by reading here. It's a tad scary to notice these things are mostly body frames bolted to a chassis with aluminum rivetted to the outside and 1/8 wood screwed to the inside. But what about the FLOOR? Sure, it's plenty strong. But do many of you insulate it? Also, would it be wise to weatherproof the underside somehow? It's just bare wood!

2) Would getting a 5x10 over a 5x8 be a bad idea? I plan on installing electric brakes on whatever I get. Other than stopping power, is there something I may be overlooking about the extra two feet and 40-lbs?

3) How are most of you addressing air conditioning? Are you using roof mounted units? Or are you cutting a hole in the wall an using a less expensive unit? I've seen a few slick set ups. But I'm sure I haven't seen them all.

In case it matters, I'm looking to get a swing-open rear door instead of a ramp. The 5x10 is attractive because of the side door. I'd likely convert that door to something more conventional with a window or porthole and a door knob. If I stick with a 5x8, then I'll likely cut a hole in the rear door and install a smaller "RV door" for convenience. I appreciate anything thoughts you might have.

Thanks!

Scott

Just what is the towing limit of your tow vehicle. Keep in mind the
weights quoted are the empty unconverted cargo trailer. Wouldn't take much at all to take either of these over 1000lbs.

We tow with a full-sized pick-up, so weight isn't an issue. We also live in Florida, so insulation isn't either. The AC unit is an RV roof type that weighs about 200 pounds.

Hello,

Alan Wood wrote:Just what is the towing limit of your tow vehicle. Keep in mind the weights quoted are the empty unconverted cargo trailer. Wouldn't take much at all to take either of these over 1000lbs.

I don't have the owner's manual with me. But I'm quite certain the limits are 1000-lbs unbraked and 1500-lbs with brakes. Max tongue is 175-lbs. I towed 1500-lbs once and didn't like it. It was either too heavy or I didn't have the load distributed well. The trailer seemed to rock the car a bit more than I liked. The trip was short; so I didn't stop to try redistributing the load.

I don't know how much insulation weighs. Can anyone quote the weight for a sheet of the blue stuff? I may need to just insulate the roof for sound control (rain) and leave the rest alone for the sake of saving weight. I don't plan to camp in the extremes. So the insulation is really for noise control and/or efficiency. I'm willing to give up some efficiency to save weight.

devigata wrote:The AC unit is an RV roof type that weighs about 200 pounds.

Thanks for sharing that! I didn't know the units were that heavy. Those are out of the question for me. I'll start with a Fantastic Fan and assess my needs from there.

OH - I learned of another brand: Homesteader. There's a dealer nearby. Their 5x8 weighs 840-lbs. I've noticed it also has optional flow-through vents on each side. Here's a photo:



The trailer looks sharp. Is there a benefit to having the flow-through vents? I imagine I can cover them in the cold.

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

1) Cargo trailers in the 5x8, 5x10 size often come with steel sides riveted to steel framework. Aluminum is best for weight and durability, so it's best to find a trailer that has it and aluminum framework. Usually the chassis is steel. Three companies make all aluminum trailers (Alumina, Featherlight, Worthington).

2) Insulation is good. It weighs almost nothing (styrofoam or polyurethane).

3) Roof air? A lot of us just open the back door, the roof vent and side door and let the breeze blow through. Roof AC will certainly add weight, which, with a VW TDI tow vehicle is of the utmost importance to keep low. In that regard, the heavy cast steel of trailer brakes becomes an issue also. You COULD go with lighter hydraulic disk brakes with a hydraulic tongue hitch to keep the weight down and to avoid having to wire your car with an electric brake controller.

If you're going to pack the trailer for a move, it's probably best on the life of your VW TDI to rent a cube van from U-Haul (with a V-8 motor) to pull the trailer.

It's always best not to strain the tow vehicle, especially if it's a light car. Transmissions die. Also, you don't want "the tail wagging the dog" where the trailer weighs more than the tow vehicle. (Dangerous, even with trailer brakes.)

I've been hearing that in model year 2010 Nissan is suppose to come out with a new, mid-size line of turbo diesel injected (TDI) pickup trucks and SUVs.

If you go looking for trailers, take a refrigerator magnet with you to see if the sides of the trailers and frames are aluminum or steel. Magnets don't stick to aluminum.

Best wishes,

Prem

...If I were going with a cargo trailer with your tow vehicle, I would go with the smallest I could get away with...your biggest problem may be tongue weight...most cargo trailers are heavy on the tongue...don't discount the wind drag on such trailers either...my opinion is that your tow vehicle is a bit light for these type trailers...as always with such things YMMV...........
madjack

Thanks for your input!

I especially appreciate the lead on the all-aluminum trailers. Worthington has a 5x8 which weighs around 500-lbs, probably 550 with some options. Regarding weight and/or loading up the trailer for a move, I can assure you I have no intention to do anything too nutty with my VW. I'm going to do a partial move this JUN and test my experience with a 5x8 U-Haul rental. I rent a room in DC and will return to SE VA for full time living. I'll likely load just a six foot wide fouton (less than 100-lbs) and a couple hundred pounds of miscellaneous things such as clothing, some bags, and electronics. I'll stay off the interstate and see what I think. The one way trip is 160 miles; and then I'd return with an empty trailer.

Other than small loads like that, any enclosed trailer I would own will likely just have some insulation, a platform for for a bed, some storage, and minor electrical stuff. If I can start with a 550-lb trailer, I wouldn't be surprised if my total load is right at 1000-lbs. My biggest concern at that point would be the sail area presented by an enclosed trailer. Crosswinds and semi-trucks could be a concern. I'll learn more on my test run this JUN.

Thoughts?

Scott

PS: Here's a photo of the Worthington trailer with optional side door and diamond plating...

Love your car!! At 316 lb/ft of torque you certainly have enough engine to pull either trailer. Have you done any suspension mods or brake work? I sold a pop up to someone with a TDI last year (don't remember the year). We had trouble finding the manufactures tow limit. I don't remember if he didn't have the manual or if it wasn't listed but after several calls we found out it was 2000 pounds trailer weight and 200 pounds tongue. Those weights required trailer brakes and a manual transmission which I see you have. I see the Homesteader trailers have a GVWR 2,990 so hopefully thier using a Dexter D35 leaf spring axle. Their website doesn't say for sure. With the D35 you can run 10 X 2 1/4 brakes. I'm running the same brakes on my 6 X 12 and they'll pull by 7000 pound truck to a stop pretty quickly by themselves. I used to pull it with an S-10 pickup and I would swear that the braking distance with the trailer was the same or less than just the truck alone. Just be sure you buy a quality proportional brake controller like the Tekonsia Prodigy.

As far as a roof top air, most roof units weigh around 90 pounds. The Coleman Mach 15 is exactly 90 pounds, the Coleman Mach 3 is 92.5 pounds, the Carrier V13.5 is 88 pounds.... The interior part that mounts to the ceiling weigh from 9 pounds to 12.5 pounds. You also have to add weight for running 12 gauge Romex wire and you'll need 30 amp service so you'll need a fairly heavy 30 amp shore cord. Plus you'll need to make sure your ceiling opening has adequate supports. You may have to add some metal to be sure. You may want to consider a 5000 or 6000 btu household air conditioner. Most weight about 40 pounds and will cost about $600 less. Also, you only need 14 gauge wire and 15 amp service.

Prem wrote:Scott,

In that regard, the heavy cast steel of trailer brakes becomes an issue also. You COULD go with lighter hydraulic disk brakes with a hydraulic tongue hitch to keep the weight down and to avoid having to wire your car with an electric brake controller.

Prem

I think you'll find that hydraulic disks are not much lighter than drums. The rotors aren't light nor are the calipers. Probably save a few pounds at best 10 but you will certainly add about 30 lbs. to your tongue weight with a hydraulic surge coupler on it. An electric brake control on the other hand weighs less than a pound.
I believe he is in VA and you have to watch where you are traveling to up here, hydraulic surge brakes are illegal in OH, NY and at least one other state around here (maybe MD). Unless you have a boat trailer you don't even want to go to OH with them, if you're caught you will park the trailer until you can get another trailer to load it on to to haul it out.

Scott,

Rich is right! Bad idea to get hydraulic brakes. (But they sure do the job! I once towed a U-Haul trailer with them.)

Love that new trailer you found.

Prem