Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi everyone. I'm still thinking about installing an AC window unit in my trailer. The only reasonable place I can think of to mount it, without taking up interior space by building bulkheads or boxes with ducting, is to mount it in the front wall of the trailer, high up, so that the bulk of the unit clears the front tongue-mount spare tire.





Of course, putting it there means I need to rethink my upper cabinet plans.

Questions, please:

1. Can an AC-sized square hole be cut into the front wall of the trailer, without compromising its strength and rigidity?

2. Let's say I measure the AC, and cut a hole that size. How would I permanently support the unit? I can't imagine the front bulkhead of the trailer is strong enough -- it's just 3/8" plywood, insulation and outer aluminum shell.

3. Could I pay a trailer dealer to install this? Or would most dealers "just say no"? I have no confidence in my own abilities here.

I've been wondering the same thing. I suspect that additional bracing will need to be welded in place to restore structural integrity. Now, how to support the unit is another question. I've seen these type units stuck in a side window of a Scotty or Shasta before, but never really paid any attention to the mounting.

I have seen floor units that use an exhaust hose that could be routed to a window. Then too, there is the Pet Cool system that could stowed in the tow vehicle and tongue mounted when you make camp. From what I have read about this unit, it only requires two penetrations through the wall (air/cold air return) which does not affect structural integrity at all.

I'm ordering a 7X12 tomorrow with 6" extra height. In about four weeks I will be having to deal with this same question. In the meantime, I will be following this thread with interest.
Best,
WA

And I would think you would need to protect it when traveling. High speed could force alot of dirt, debris and rain into it.

Reinforcing the wall with steel wouldn't be difficult. I put a 5000 btu in mine that only weighs 39 pounds so it didn't take a lot of metal to hold it.
I really, really, really hate the idea of cutting a hole in the front of a trailer. Driving down the road at 60 mph in a rain storm tends to drive water into even the smallest of voids. Most RV manufactures stopped putting front windows in their units because of the high percentage of leaks. I've spent hundreds of hours repairing water damage due to leaks in the front of campers.
I'm assuming you don't want a roof top air because it wont fit in your garage?

Seem to me I have seen several window units installed in cargo trailers at the floor level. Maybe right in front of or right in behind the fenders. I've not done it on my unit (have not done much on my CT) but I was thinking this was the way to go. With a small enough unit you would not have to cut a rib, no extra supports, and I think you can put enough "outside" of the CT (not past the fenders) so it is a semi-permanent install and you don't have to slide it in and out each time you stop. OK just my .02

Dan

And inside, you could build around it.

edcasey wrote:I really, really, really hate the idea of cutting a hole in the front of a trailer. Driving down the road at 60 mph in a rain storm tends to drive water into even the smallest of voids. Most RV manufactures stopped putting front windows in their units because of the high percentage of leaks. I've spent hundreds of hours repairing water damage due to leaks in the front of campers.

I'm assuming you don't want a roof top air because it wont fit in your garage?

Thanks Ed; he is soooo right. I did not consider what would happen while driving -- so mounting the AC there is not an option. And yes, can't put it on the roof because of the garage height limitation. If it weren't for that, I would have ordered it from the factory that way.

DrCurran: Would mounting it at the floorline make for a circulation problem with cold air staying down near it? But even if hidden from the windstream by the fender, I would think you'd still have a problem with splash and rain while underway.

The PetCool thing has got me intrigued. Just having two small ports cut into the side of the trailer would obviously be a lot less scary. And I could leave the PetCool unit at home when it isn't hot. I went back and read some of the articles around the forum about PetCool users. I should probably post a new message in the Electrical sub-forum -- but my questions about using a PetCool are these:

1. Will a PetCool, at 2500 (2000?) BTUs cooling, be strong enough to cool a 6'x10'x5' (300 cu ft) box? The specs say max 6'x6'x6' (216 cu ft.) Do they make a bigger one? Does it matter if all our stuff and ourselves take up a chunk of room?

2. Many of the articles in 2007-early 2008 talk about the original company (International Air) going bankrupt and/or selling the PetCool technology away. Can I buy one now, and is there any support for it? And where is the best place to buy it from?

I mounted an AC in the front wall of my Escape Hatch.

I'll never do that again. No matter what you do, it'll leak.

Mike...

DrCurran: Would mounting it at the floor line make for a circulation problem with cold air staying down near it? But even if hidden from the wind stream by the fender, I would think you'd still have a problem with splash and rain while underway.

digimark makes some good points. I'm not sure with a floor mounted unit the air circulation would be a problem. Most room size AC units will make a 6 X 10 or 6 X 12 CT cold enough to "hang meat". The idea of splash and rain while underway is a good point. Maybe a mount system that would slid out - like a fully suspended drawer. Small door on the outside, open door, slide AC unit out. OK more of my .02

Dan

PS - drcurran is Daniel Raymond Curran not Dr.

Mounting th A/C unit ( window shaker) in the front of any trailer will have a leak going inside the trailer. Driving in any condition will force water and or dust into the trailer. Unless you design a cover for it to prevent that from happening that you could remove oncr at the campground.

I have 5x8 Haulmark on order to do a cargo/camper hybrid and have been studying the A/C options. My original thought was for a PetCool and vent it through the floor. I would like to keep penetrations through the aluminum skin to an absolute minimum.

Now I am thinking of one these Haier 7000-btu portable units instead that you can order through Walmart.com:



This measures 13.2L x 17.9W x 24.4H, has one exhaust duct hose to vent to the outside and has a remote control like a TV. Having the unit inside will let you control the temp in the middle of the night without getting out of the trailer. On the other hand, more noise.

I'd be interested in what anyone else thought of this type unit...

Herb

I just did some measurements on the window unit I plan (someday) to put in my CT. If I measure correctly the unit would only have to have about 8" sticking out from the side of the CT. As I suggested before maybe a slid out tray or maybe some sort of "waterproof box" over the protruding part of the AC unit.

I'm just about to pul the trigger on the Wal-Mart Haier 7,000 BTU HSandy's discovered. At $304 shipped it's several hundred dollars cheaper than the PetCool, and easy to remove from the trailer when not using it. It also seems *very* small. I like that I could use it in the house for emergencies.

The all-important question for me is, how big a hole in the wall should I cut for the heat exhaust, and what can I do to seal the hole when not in use? I'd really rather use some kind of RV-appropriate pre-manufactured hole cover, like the shoreline port covers. Would it work if the duct were directed down through the floor? And how much clearance between the back of the unit and the wall is needed for the exhaust hose?

digimark wrote:I'm just about to pul the trigger on the Wal-Mart Haier 7,000 BTU HSandy's discovered. At $304 shipped it's several hundred dollars cheaper than the PetCool, and easy to remove from the trailer when not using it. It also seems *very* small. I like that I could use it in the house for emergencies.

The all-important question for me is, how big a hole in the wall should I cut for the heat exhaust, and what can I do to seal the hole when not in use? I'd really rather use some kind of RV-appropriate pre-manufactured hole cover, like the shoreline port covers. Would it work if the duct were directed down through the floor? And how much clearance between the back of the unit and the wall is needed for the exhaust hose?

You're the man. You are our tester. Please take pictures as soon as it arrives. also take pictures of the vents the come with it. Take a picture of you standing next to it so we know how big it is.

Then take pictures of the hole in the side of your trailer. And the icicles hanging from the inside ceiling of your teardrop.

Mike...

Those portable air conditioners are really popular this year. My local Home Depot has a half dozen models in stock. One was $197.00 but I didn't check the size and their website doesn't list it.
Haier's installation manual http://www.haieramerica.com/en/asset/product/ecba1ad429 is a little disappointing. It doesn't give the size of the exhaust hose. From the picture of the exhaust hose, it looks like it has a slight bend but it doesn't list minimum wall clearance. Hopefully, the hose is a standard 3 "or 4". That way you could get a 90 degree elbow and vent it through the floor or two elbows and vent through the wall with a minimum of clearance.