Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all

I was just given a pair of stabilizer jacks for my cargo and was curious to see how the factory mounts them. Could anyone snap a shot of theirs and post or email me a pic. I sure would appreciate it. I just have them sitting under the trailer in the photo.

Thanks

Hey there, I will take pics & post tommorrow have been working lots but have monday off. I did get your e-mail but will post the pics here.
41willys

Jeff,

I took them off because they were the lowest point on the rear and dragged something fierce going in and out of parking. I just use the small, portable trailer jacks and can position them front or rear, or both. All it takes is two.



Prem

here is one of them might be tough welding the support with the floor in but here are the pics anyway




Hope tis helps
41 willys

I mounted a set the same way /method as "41 Willys" except I ran a 2 X 4 (pressure treated) across the back of the CT and then bolted the "jacks" through the 2 X 4 and the floor with carriage bolts. My thinking was this would distribute the weight and not have the jack only supported by 3/4" plywood floor. The jacks when folded up are tucked in above the rear most member of the frame. I'll try to get a pic up later.

Dan

Atwood swing-down jacks where originally designed to be bolted to the bottom of the trailer frame. The problem with that is on lower trailers mounting under the frame doesn't leave enough room for the jacks to swing down. Plus, they tend to hang very low to the ground. 41willys' pics show the way they are usually mounted for maximum ground clearance. A gusset is welded between the rear and side frame members as close as possible to the floor and the jacks are welded to the gusset. This is done at the factory before the plywood floor is laid in place.

Most RV manufactures stopped using these jacks a few years ago and went with a low-profile screw style jack and we couldn't have been happier. I'm honestly not a fan of Atwood swing down jacks. Here are just a few pointers from someone who has spent countless hours with a hammer in one hand and penetrating oil in the other trying to free stuck Atwood jacks (even on units that hadn't been sold yet). First, keep them lubricated with silicon spray. Don't use WD-40 or similar lubricants because they will hold dirt and make the jack sticking problem worse. Don't let them rust. Rust will prevent them from swinging down and extending / retracting. Don't use the little bar that comes with the jacks. Instead, lower the jacks by hand until they hit the ground and then raise the tongue jack to put pressure on the rear jacks.

Ed

edcasey wrote:Most RV manufactures stopped using these jacks a few years ago and went with a low-profile screw style jack and we couldn't have been happier.

Ed

Are these the BAL type jacks that some have used on the forum? I was going to buy some Atwoods but this has me thinking differently....sounds like potential trouble in the future. Are there any other pros and cons to be aware of?

The jacks I was referring to are the BAL light trailer stabilizing jacks.


They can be installed or replaced in less than 5 minutes with 3 self-tapping screws. They only stick down about 2 1/2 inches below the frame when retracted. I've never had a customer rip one off even on very low pop-up trailers. The only ones I've ever replaced where damaged when the owner tried to drive away with the jacks still down...opps. The screw mechanism is very simple and reliable. I cut the curved portion from an extra handle and use it in an 18 volt cordless drill to raise and lower them. Works great.

My only negative comment is they don't come with the 6 inch round feet (not shown in pic above). You have to order them separately but their definitely worth having.