My Project a Cargo Trailer for back country camping

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

My Project a Cargo Trailer for back country camping

Postby meach4x4 » Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:34 pm

After a few months of lurking in this forum and a few others, I've now got the humble beginnings of a plan to modify a cargo trailer to fit my needs for a back country camper.

I'm blessed to live in an area that has many incredible places to explore, including Zion, Bryce, Canyonlands, Grand Canyon, and many more that are less published and well known. Most of these places have wonderful areas adjacent to them that are accessible only with high clearance vehicles on washboard dirt roads.

Since my wife and I want to camp comfortably in these places, we have settled on a cargo trailer conversion to meet our needs. My basic list of requirements are:

Lightweight: Approximately 1,200 pounds dry.
Durable: Able to travel on washboard roads at reasonable speeds without disintegrating.
Small: Must be as narrow as my pull vehicle (2008 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited)
Hi clearance: Must have reasonably good breakover and departure angles. Not for extreme trails, but for back country roads.
Comfortable bed: It can be compact, since we are both 5'7" tall, but we have to be able to stretch out.
Standing (or near standing) room to dress.

Of course there are all kinds of other "niceties" I'd like to add, but my plan is to start with a basic build that will meet these objectives, and then if I can add more of the frills and not lose my goals in the process, I'll consider them later.

After setting the goals, I set about shopping for the basic cargo trailer to meet my goals. I determined the smallest trailer to meet my goals would be a 5x8. With a V nose, a 5x8 would have enough room for a 5x6 bed, 2 feet of standing room, and a small front cabinet for cooking, electronics, and so on. The total length would be about 12', the total width would be narrower than my Jeep, and the empty weight would be less than 800 pounds, leaving me 300 pounds for my modifications.

I found a decent deal on a 2007 Wells Cargo V Force 5x8 trailer. I especially was happy to find a used one with the RV side door, barn doors in back, and the 6" additional height. I believe this will be a good base for the project, and it fit in the budget. (If money was no problem, I'd be looking at all aluminum, but that would not be in my ballpark)

So, the project is scheduled to begin tomorrow, when I head out to go pick up the trailer. Once I have it here to do some more measuring, I'll be ordering windows, roof vents, lift kit, and materials to build the bed and cabinets.

I am thinking of making the bed relatively frameless. I'm planning on having 3 pieces of 12mm plywood cut to 2'x5' that will be supported by two 1x1 aluminum angle rails screwed into the sides. The reason for the size of the pieces is that way I can tilt one piece against the back door to be a back for a sofa. Then I can put the two other pieces on top of each other and slide the other two pieces up against the back piece, and have a sofa for rainy days.

I'm sketching some of these ideas, and if I get my scanner hooked up I'll post them. I'll have pictures of the trailer tomorrow evening, after we get it home.

:roll: My current confidence level is pretty good, as I've done a few conversions before, but I am certainly open to questions and suggestions from you readers of this thread. I'm a big boy... I won't cry. :cry:

Current areas of concern:

How much support will I need to put under the bed? 3/4 ply may be a better choice, but I'm looking at keeping the weight down, but still need to make the bed solid enough. Perhaps a removable frame under the center of the bed, made of a vertical panel of the plywood that will slide in and out for supports? Ideas?

I'm not convinced the torflex axle will perform on the washboard roads. I've had trailers with leafs, and they bounce a lot unless you load them down and put shocks on them. I plan to do some testing of the torflex when I have the windows, cabinets, and bed in. If need be, I will consider swapping out to a better off road suspension.

I have a set of Jeep wheels and 32" tires that came on the Rubicon. I plan to use those tires eventually. I figure if I can make the trailer ride reasonably well with the 205/75/15 tires it currently has, I'll lift it up and put on spacers to fit my wheels. If the torflex doesn't cut it, I'll get another axle with 5 on 5 hubs. The Jeep wheels have a lot of offset, so I'd need spacers to fit them to the stock dexter axle, anyway.

More to follow...

Gil
St George, Utah
2008 Rubicon Unlimited
2007 Wells Cargo V Force 5x8





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Postby Prem » Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:15 am

Gil,

Way to go! Welcome to our cult.


1) What is your Dexter trailer axle rated at? 3,500 lbs?

2) Is this the model Wells Cargo you got:

Image

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Postby digimark » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:02 pm

Welcome to the fun!

Umm, when you talk about cargo trailers, you don't generally talk about approach and departure angles, and the Jeep Rubicon has a whole lot of wheel articulation for going over rocks and through gullies that the cargo trailer's just going to laugh at and say, "I'm not going there." The Australians (and all the people in the Off-Road part of the forums) seem like they are always referring to these small open top boxes with kitchens fit into them and a platform tent on top that folds out.

Then again, I've been accused of assuming it couldn't be done before.
It will be really interesting to see what you come up with that keeps a low center of gravity and keeps up with the Rubicon on trails. Pictures?

-Gary
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Postby meach4x4 » Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:54 pm


1) What is your Dexter trailer axle rated at? 3,500 lbs?

2) Is this the model Wells Cargo you got:

Prem



Yes, Prem, it is a Torflex 3500 lb axle

Yes, it is the same trailer. I have pics that I took today when I picked it up, but I need to find out the the preferred way of posting pictures in this forum. Apparently, I need to put them in a web location and then use the img HTML command to bring them in?

The trailer has a full vinyl wrap on it. Part of the excellent price I paid for it was because of the possibility that the wrap may be very difficult to remove. My cousin who has years of experience with wraps told me it could be easy, or could be impossible to remove without ruining the paint.
He said I would know as soon as I started to peel it off if it was going to be relatively easy to peel, or not.

So, when I picked it up this morning, I left it sit in the 98 degree heat for a few hours, then started to peel the wrap off the curbside door.
:thumbsup: Yahoo! It peeled off smooth and in one piece. I got the door peeled in about 20 minutes, so I figure a couple of hours to finish the job tomorrow.
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Postby Prem » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:17 pm

Gil,

SUPERB!


The company's website describes that trailer as aluminum skin, roof and top molding on a steel chassis. EXCELLENT FIND! :thumbsup:

Aluminum is maintenance free!

The 3,500 pound axle is over-kill for your purposes, it sounds like. (That's the same axle I have on my 1,250 pound, 12-foot Featherlite, and it's over-kill on mine!)

We need about 750 pound of rocks inside for ballast! :?

Check eBay. They have 2,000 pound, torsion axles sometimes, or find one locally if you want to switch them out for a cushier ride. Leaf springs and torsion axles are not interchangeable, unfortunately. The mounting brackets on a 2,000 pound torsion axle MAY BE. Check the bolt pattern on both if you do it.

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Postby meach4x4 » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:20 pm

digimark wrote:Welcome to the fun!

Umm, when you talk about cargo trailers, you don't generally talk about approach and departure angles, and the Jeep Rubicon has a whole lot of wheel articulation for going over rocks and through gullies that the cargo trailer's just going to laugh at and say, "I'm not going there." The Australians (and all the people in the Off-Road part of the forums) seem like they are always referring to these small open top boxes with kitchens fit into them and a platform tent on top that folds out.

Then again, I've been accused of assuming it couldn't be done before.
It will be really interesting to see what you come up with that keeps a low center of gravity and keeps up with the Rubicon on trails. Pictures?

-Gary

Yes, I am aware my "Trail Limo" will go places that would wad the trailer up. I originally was going to build an AT style utility trailer with a RTT, but then I determined that for my budget and usage, plus my wife's goal of a hard sided trailer to camp in made me revise my plan.

In order to be able to drive on moderate trails and back roads, I am going to put a lift on the trailer and run 32" off road tires. (I just happen to have 5 of them sitting around) My first attempt to get what I need will be to put a spacer between the torflex axle and the frame. The manufacturer sells a weld-in spacer for whatever lift I want. If the spacer and the 32's get me where I want to go, I'm a happy camper. If not, I will either put long supple leaf springs and shocks, or possibly go the AT route with air bags and independant suspension. That will be a decision I will make after I see the effectiveness of the lifted torflex.

I did take the trailer out on a bumpy dirt road today, and I am pretty happy how the torflex works on bumpy road, if it works a little better with larger tires aired down, I think I may be pleasantly surprised.

So, the low cg will be going away, but here in these parts almost all the trailers have spring over conversions, and they just have to drive more conservatively because of the height of their CG. I will be keeping the load down much lower than the AT trailers, since they have over 200 lbs of RTT on top of the trailer. Their track width is also a little narrower than the cargo trailer. All my load will be at or below 17" above floor level. Everything above the load is pretty light. (total weight of my trailer from the factory is 870 lbs.) I am also planning on keeping my load pretty light, compared to most of the Adventure Trailers I am familiar with 1,100 lbs. is the goal. I'm thinkin' spartan here.

I'm not deluded thinking my trailer will even come close to the capabilities of the Adventure trailers, but I think it will be capable of going on moderate trails when I am finished.

As soon as I read up on the posting of pics here, I'll do it.
Until then, I have a few pics posted on my blog at
http://gilmeacham.blogspot.com
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Postby Prem » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:35 pm

Gil,

It's easiest just to create a personal album here and then link to photos on it in your posts.

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Postby meach4x4 » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:39 pm

Prem wrote:Gil,

SUPERB!


The company's website describes that trailer as aluminum skin, roof and top molding on a steel chassis. EXCELLENT FIND! :thumbsup:

Aluminum is maintenance free!

The 3,500 pound axle is over-kill for your purposes, it sounds like. (That's the same axle I have on my 1,250 pound, 12-foot Featherlite, and it's over-kill on mine!)

We need about 750 pound of rocks inside for ballast! :?

Check eBay. They have 2,000 pound, torsion axles sometimes, or find one locally if you want to switch them out for a cushier ride. Leaf springs and torsion axles are not interchangeable, unfortunately. The mounting brackets on a 2,000 pound torsion axle MAY BE. Check the bolt pattern on both if you do it.

Prem

Yeah, I'm tickled with the find. One of the nice parts is the guy put a vinyl wrap on it (advertisement) and then never drove it. Just stored inventory in it parked in his yard. The tires have about 200 miles on them! I just started peeling the wrap, and the paint is like new under it! It is dark green (a little dark for the desert, nice for the forest!) but I may use some silver to match it to my Jeep and lighten it up, keeping the dark green for accent striping. All that will be after I see how well it works, of course.

I'm going to be talking to the factory rep tomorrow, to order some of the parts. While I'm on the horn with him I'll check the axle rating for sure. The GAWR is 2,500 lbs. But my flatbed Big Tex is rated at 3,000 and I know for sure it has the 3,500 lb torflex.

I hear you about the 750 lbs of rocks. I'm sure my wife can take care of those, we always end up hauling back something from our desert drives. :? :?

If I do change axles, I'll probably go for a custom spring over with long leafs and off road shocks (I happen to have 4 gas filled ones) or I may decide to bite the bullet and go for an Adventure Trailer $uspension $ystem. That will be quite the project to build on with the trailer sitting on jack stands. (I don't plan on turning it upside down to weld on the crossmembers and shock mounts. :thinking:

By the way, Prem, I spent about 7 hours the other evening reading the entire thread on your trailer. It was very motivating. I plan to steal your v front counter top idea to use that front area for a laptop desk. I'll probably use it for storage underneath, and put my generator there while I'm on the road. (That oughta keep the load forward)

Thanks for the encouraging words!
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Postby Prem » Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:56 pm

Gil,

Wife in charge of loading the rock/ballast: :MLAS

Leaf springs: Oh! Welding upside down, MY FAVORITE (Not!)

7 hours on my thread: :?

V-nose computer table with storage under: Leave room for your legs and feet.

One question: How much did the trailer cost you? (Hey! Inquiring builder minds want to know.)

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Postby Prem » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:10 am

P.S.

From the interior photo on your blog, it looks like your trailer has aluminum ribs too. Way cool! No electrolysis and no extra weight. Plus, you've got Luan (light mahogany) plywood on the walls. NICE. Easy to paint or varnish (unlike OSB or fir plywood). :thumbsup:

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Postby meach4x4 » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:24 am

Prem wrote:Gil,

Wife in charge of loading the rock/ballast: :MLAS

Leaf springs: Oh! Welding upside down, MY FAVORITE (Not!)

7 hours on my thread: :?

V-nose computer table with storage under: Leave room for your legs and feet.

One question: How much did the trailer cost you? (Hey! Inquiring builder minds want to know.)

Prem


It was $2,000 (Obama dollars) I had to get a discount because of the wrap, which has turned out to be a non-issue so far :D

I was looking in the 1000-1400 range, but I think the V nose is worth the difference, plus the condition of this one is pretty amazing for even a 2 year old one. The tires still had some of the sprules (tits) on them.

Here are some pics (thanks for the album hint):

Image
Curbside, with the Jeep tow vehicle... gotta lift that trailer soon!
Image
Driver side
Image
Rear oblique with Jeep
Image
Side door is an RV style with an inside latch
Image
Interior is pristine... needs a bed, windows, desk, storage, vent... :thinking:
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Postby Prem » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:56 am

Gil,

The former owner probably had a grand or TWO just in the graphic wrap! :cry:

How much is that model new now? $3,500?

You got a good one!

Prem :thumbsup:
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Postby meach4x4 » Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:35 pm

Today was the day to start the build. Step one is the removal of the vinyl wrap. As lovely as the advertisement for Water Miser is, I just don't want to be a rolling billboard. I prefer the stealthy nature of a cargo trailer conversion.

I was anxious to see how well the vinyl peels off. My cousin (Bret) who is in the vinyl supplies and equipement business told me it could be anywhere from fairly easy to incredibly difficult, depending on several factors. So, I started out this morning peeling away the vinyl.

After a few minutes of grunting and groaning, my wife and I found it was not too bad pulling off the vinyl if you do it in about 5 inch strips. After pulling the vinyl away from an edge a few inches, I would make a small scissor cut in the edge of the vinyl
Image
Then, you pull the vinyl at a 45 degree angle downward, tearing the vinyl as you pull across the trailer. Here is my wife (Willa) working on a strip
Image
Sometimes when the adhesive was really strong I would have to put all my body into pulling the vinyl.
Image
I found it is important to pull smooth and steady to avoid overstretching the vinyl and also to allow the vinyl to lift as much of the adhesive from the trailer's paint.
When we finished peeling all the vinyl off, there was quite a bit of vinyl adhesive remaining on the driver side
Image
Fortunately, my cousin Bret sent me a quart of adhesive remover used by vinyl sign shops.
Image
I found that the adhesive remover works better than all the other solvents I have tried over the years (WD40, Denatured Alcohol, Turpentine, Laquer Thinner, Goo-B-Gone, Mineral Oil) It is also water soluble, making it not bad to work with. Following the instructions on the label seemed to be the best results with the least work.
Image
So now we are ready to start building the bed. Stay tuned! :thumbsup:
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Postby devigata » Tue Sep 22, 2009 4:32 am

Sweet!!! Did you know it was green before stripping off the wrap?
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Postby kevin57 » Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:40 am

I like that color.
Kevin

happy wife = happy life
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