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Propane tank tongue mount, revisited.

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 4:37 pm
by digimark
Still hung up on this idea of putting a propane tank on the trailer tongue, even though the factory spare tire mount is in the way. I set a 20lb propane tank on the tongue in these pictures. I'm looking for your estimation of whether this would work:

Image

Image

The jack handle hits the propane tank when fully opened, although if I lift it slightly it will clear the tank. It's probably better to put a 10lb tank here, if it's doable at all.

Comments?

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:17 pm
by astrotrailer
I have the same issue. I have a tongue box and a tire above.
I am moving the tire to the side of the trailer and I am mounting
the propane tank above the tongue box. In your case I would
look at mount the spare hire up the wall and putting a shelf
against the wall of the trailer to support the tank.

Jeff

Need better pics!

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:25 pm
by eamarquardt
Hard to tell from the pic but could you bove the propane tank back, mount it maybe 5 or 6 inches lower using some kind of custom brackets (not really that hard). I don't think it would ever "bottom out" and hit the ground. Then if you could raise your spare a few inches and could perhaps "have your cake and eat it too" by having both the spare tire and propane tank near to where they are today.

Just a thought.

Cheers,

Gus

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:25 pm
by digimark
I should have outlined the spare tire mount -- it's made of the same box tube the tongue is and welded to the tongue. I asked the trailer dealer if they could add more box tube to mount the tire higher and they said the mount is so close to the front wall that they didn't want to try for fear of damaging the front wall and diamond plate. So moving the tire isn't really an option.

Does anyone know what is the height of a 10lb tank?

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:50 pm
by astrotrailer
If you put a couple of angle braces below the box tubing it looks
like it would drop the top of the tank low enough for the handle to
turn. Without the tank foot it looks like it would fit in triangle space
right behind the tongue.

Jeff

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:28 pm
by eamarquardt
digimark wrote:I should have outlined the spare tire mount -- it's made of the same box tube the tongue is and welded to the tongue. I asked the trailer dealer if they could add more box tube to mount the tire higher and they said the mount is so close to the front wall that they didn't want to try for fear of damaging the front wall and diamond plate. So moving the tire isn't really an option.


Bah, humbug!!!!! Where there is a "will" there is a "way". Post some more pictures and I'm sure we can come up with an "easy bolt on installation" to move the spare up and forward a bit.

Cheers,

Gus

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 9:39 pm
by Ageless
Why not lay it on it's side in a cradle and then set it upright once you have the trailer set and level?

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:35 pm
by bve
Why not add an extension to the jack?

Not to the handle but the pivot point at the top of the screw that raises it 4-5".

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:15 pm
by edcasey
If

Just make it easy!

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:26 pm
by eamarquardt
edcasey wrote:If I understand correctly, the only issue is the jack handle hitting the tank. You can change to a side wind jack. The handle would be towards the front. I find them easier to crank being vertically challenged.

Image


Clearly your solution makes the rest of us look sillly, ha.

"Easy bolt on installation". My favorite!

Cheers,

Gus

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:24 pm
by S. Heisley
If he replaces his existing jack with a siderwinder and puts it in the same place, he could still have the same problem because the tank is wider than the jack. If that's the case, perhaps the extension idea to raise the handle of the existing jack above the tank would be the easiest and least expensive way. The other alternative might be to relocate the new sidewinder jack or existing jack further up and to the side, if that's possible, ensuring that the handle (and knuckles) will no longer come in contact with the tank.

I don't understand!

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 1:44 pm
by eamarquardt
S. Heisley wrote:If he replaces his existing jack with a siderwinder and puts it in the same place, he could still have the same problem because the tank is wider than the jack. If that's the case, perhaps the extension idea to raise the handle of the existing jack above the tank would be the easiest and least expensive way. The other alternative might be to relocate the new sidewinder jack or existing jack further up and to the side, if that's possible, ensuring that the handle (and knuckles) will no longer come in contact with the tank.


If the jack is replaced and the crank is facing forward, based on the pictures, I don't see that there'd be any interference.

But, my head is killing me (7.5/10 on the Richter Scale of PAIN), and I'm not thinking clearly, but that is my current thought on the matter.

Any questions?

Cheers,

Gus

PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:58 pm
by edcasey
S. Heisley wrote:If he replaces his existing jack with a siderwinder and puts it in the same place, he could still have the same problem because the tank is wider than the jack. If that's the case, perhaps the extension idea to raise the handle of the existing jack above the tank would be the easiest and least expensive way. The other alternative might be to relocate the new sidewinder jack or existing jack further up and to the side, if that's possible, ensuring that the handle (and knuckles) will no longer come in contact with the tank.


Like

PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:38 am
by S. Heisley
You're right! ...Better thinking than mine!

PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:50 pm
by bve
A sidewinder will work for a $35 ish touch, however I'd bet an extension could be added to the existing jack with materials already around the shop -RRR.