Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:02 pm**

I purchased a great set of windows from Frank Bear Sales and Mfg. http://teardroptrailerparts.com/ I chose the 14 x 21 as they fit between the vertical frame members in the trailer. I've already carefully marked off the area to be cut.

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:02 pm**

I once cut a hole into my brand new chevy 3/4 ton van to install windows.

made me nervous as all get out.

Good luck

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 6:07 pm**

Those look like nice windows - I've considered them as well. Here's my only question:

I have an older Pace trailer, and my studs are on 16" centers. The free area between my z-studs is 13". Is yours similar, or is the stud spacing or style different? If it is the same, are you cutting through the edge of either (or both) of your studs to get your 14" opening?

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 6:32 pm**

Why does everybody even put windows in Cargo trailers? Doesn't that kinda' defeat the "Stealth" concept? I understand "to let light in", but are you really inside that much? :thinking:

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:29 pm**

I put two of those in my 6x14. They seem like good windows. I had NP installing them in my trailer and it has 1"x2" steel studs 16" on center.
As far as why put in windows.. Simple to see outside, Let light it and help with ventilation.. I have no interest in trying to hide the fact my cargo trailer is converted toyhauler.. Why would you need to hide that its a camper?

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:55 pm**

lonerider wrote:Why does everybody even put windows in Cargo trailers? Doesn't that kinda' defeat the "Stealth" concept? I understand "to let light in", but are you really inside that much?

I'm putting in windows for ventilation. Not planning on AC. Also, to check for bears. ;-) Besides, you'll spend about a third of your day in the trailer, more if it rains. To me, it's worth the money to be able to see out on a rainy day while sipping a nice Costa Rican coffee AND have the cross ventilation. JMO. YMMV.

That said, no windows does contribute more to the 'stealth' appearance, and, if that is your goal, great! Go no windows. It's all about what you want. That's why we build instead of buy. You get what you want that way.
Best,
WA

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:13 pm**

n2evrythng wrote:Those look like nice windows - I've considered them as well. Here's my only question:

I have an older Pace trailer, and my studs are on 16" centers. The free area between my z-studs is 13". Is yours similar, or is the stud spacing or style different? If it is the same, are you cutting through the edge of either (or both) of your studs to get your 14" opening?

You bring up some great points. I've attached a pic to help show what I am planning on doing. The top yellow line indicates the 16" center, the middle shows the 14 1/2" needed for the opening, and the bottom is the current freee area. I've shown in red the part of the one z stud that will be cut away to achieve the necessary clearance. Hope this was helpful. BTW, any ideas on what to use to make the cut in the skin? I had planned on using aviation tin snips but a lot of folks seem to zip rip through with a sabre saw and a metal cutting blade.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:15 pm**

8ball_99 wrote:I put two of those in my 6x14. They seem like good windows. I had NP installing them in my trailer and it has 1"x2" steel studs 16" on center.
As far as why put in windows.. Simple to see outside, Let light it and help with ventilation.. I have no interest in trying to hide the fact my cargo trailer is converted toyhauler.. Why would you need to hide that its a camper?

A most excellent installation. Thank you for the helpful pics.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:27 pm**

I made a template out of a scrap piece of 1/4" Marked the outside and just cut it using a Jigsaw. The one seen on the ladder in my picture.. A metal blade zipped right through it. I bought a new blade with the most teeth I could find. It cut smooth and was very easy to make the turns.. IF I had to cut through Z studs like you I would use the Jigsaw for the skin and a round cut off wheel in a 4" grinder to cut the stud.. Of course you would need to cut the stud first from the inside then cut the skin..I would also cut the part you have marked since the skin is screwed to the other part.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:34 pm**

8ball_99 wrote:I made a template out of a scrap piece of 1/4" Marked the outside and just cut it using a Jigsaw. The one seen on the ladder in my picture.. A metal blade zipped right through it. I bought a new blade with the most teeth I could find. It cut smooth and was very easy to make the turns.. IF I had to cut through Z studs like you I would use the Jigsaw for the skin and a round cut off wheel in a 4" grinder to cut the stud.. Of course you would need to cut the stud first from the inside then cut the skin..I would also cut the part you have marked since the skin is screwed to the other part.

Your comments on the teeth per inch and procedure are most helpful. And i just picked up up a 4" grinder to cut and smooth the stud.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:47 pm**

Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. I think that will be a good place to cut the stud as well - I doubt it will seriously affect the structural integrity of the wall. Good luck & keep us posted how it goes - I may just do the same thing.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:04 pm**

n2evrythng wrote:Sounds like you have a pretty good plan. I think that will be a good place to cut the stud as well - I doubt it will seriously affect the structural integrity of the wall. Good luck & keep us posted how it goes - I may just do the same thing.

I was initially concerned about losing some structural integrity, but after looking at the z-stud there will still be a 90 degree section of metal left after cutting. I think the z is just an economical way to get inside and outside attach points without having to use square tubing.

Posted: **Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:20 am**

If your worried about the missing piece affecting the structural integrity just weld a piece of flat bar on the other side of the cut.. Just cut the flat bar longer then the missing piece.. Doesn't have to be much longer just 2-3" top and bottom. So that one section would be like C channel instead of Z. When I cut out for my hotwater heater I ended having to weld in a frame for it. I just did short welds and made sure it didnt' get to hot.. Didn't hurt the skin at all. You will need to remove the screws in the skin where the window goes anyway when your making your cut so you could always just shim the skin out away from the stud a little if your worried about the heat..

Cutting its not bad.. But I'll admit taking that large drill bit and popping that first hole in your trailer is a bit nerve racking.. That hole measure twice and cut once thing. I was more like measure 5 times stand back eyeball it then measure again. HaHa. One trick that might help. I took a small drill bit like 1/8". From the inside of the trailer I drilled right beside one stud and drilled another hole where I wanted the top of the window. I then took my template outside lined it up with the holes and ran a couple of screws in the holes. The holes makes sure your window is at the right height inside but also between the studs, While the screws hold the template in place so it doesn't move while you mark the hole.. Hope that makes since!

Posted: **Wed Apr 14, 2010 2:50 pm**

Here is a pic of the z-stud after rough cutting with an angle grinder. Next will be smoothing and then cutting the skin. Thanks 8ball for the useful input.

Posted: **Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:39 pm**

I've posted a few more pics of the actual cut. Wasn't that bad and only took 10 minutes.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Window selection and installation in Pace American 6 x 12

Window selection and installation in Pace American 6 x 12

Thank you

Z-stud cut