Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all! It has been a while since I have posted anything but have been busy with "LIFE" as you all know.

I am continuing work on our 7 x 14 CT and I want to install a table that will hinge from the wall and fold down when not in use. Approximate size 24" wide by 36" to 48" long. Would anybody have any pics of tables that they have built that are interested in sharing? Just trying to get some good ideas and I know this is the place to come too.

Hi Hunter
Looks like from your dimensions that you might have a problem. Most tables are 30" off the floor and your 36 to 48 length won't fold down in the space. If you want to hinge it you'll have to swing it up on the wall. the other alternative would be to use the lift off hardware that you can get from most RV repair places and put the table on the floor or fasten to the wall like most TD's do for outside tables. Other than that you just need a leg on a hinge and some way to lock it into place.

Gary

Here's a couple of my setup the table is about 28 in. sguare. It's big enough to eat off of and to play cards when the weathers bad. The chairs store behind it.






I hope these help you out.

Kevin57,

I'm getting ready to build a table too. Glad this thread came up. Building it so the chairs store behind it is a GREAT idea. Hadn't thought of that...

Sweet idea hiding the chairs behind the table Kevin57.

Gary, I was thinking of only coming out from the wall (or into the room)24". I have a total wall space available of approximately 72". If I made it 36" long, I would still have another 36" of free space. My plan for it is to be able to sit 2 adults and 2 kids around it if the weather outside is

Yep, the folding Table above w/Chair storage is very nicely executed.

To have a Table the 'correct', Kid-compatible heighth off the floor for standard Chairs AND to have it the length you want, tweak these ideas.

1. Put a 2nd Piano Hinge at the non-wall end of the Table shown above. Have a second section of Table fold back in on itself before folding everything back into the Wall as shown above. If this 2nd Piano Hinge were mounted very tightly, there would minimal bow to the Table between the 2 sections when deployed.

The removable Table support Leg could be mounted [pinned?] right at or near this 2nd Piano Hinge. It could either go straight down, or go back at a ~45 degree angle to where the Wall meets the Floor. A diagonal 1" x 6" cut to span this 2nd Hinge that is pinned on either side of it - and at the Floor - would act as a stiffener and support.

2. Make a Table 'extender' piece with 2 pieces of Conduit attached to the bottom. Slide this 'wing' piece onto the main Table part by sliding the Conduit into several Conduit clamps mounted on the bottom of the main Table. Space the Conduit and clamps wide enough to fit stored Chairs between them when the Table is down and stored.

Nice, versatile config and craftsmanship on your CT build Hunter535!

Thanks for the comments everybody

I determined my table height by measuring our kitchen table. Then did a mock up using the chairs to make sure everything was ok since the table is at the front of the trailer. I only had 69 inches to work with and I wanted to make sure we both could set at it, and not have much trouble getting in and out of the chairs.

Kevin,

NIce! And you got some really good plywood for the table with no voids in it. If you ever want to cover the end grain plywood of the table, there is some paper thin, real wood "tape" that you can glue on the end grain.

Lately, I like to cover end grain plywood tables with 1/4 inch thick hardwood trim (usually African mahogany or white oak). I use epoxy or Gorilla Glue, pre-drill the trim into the end grain and then use bronze-silicon, flat head, ring shank nails every six inches to clamp it and leave those pretty, bronze nail heads showing. Then sand it and varnish it. The hardwood trim protects the end grain plywood from nicks and flaking. Especially white oak can take a lot of abuse without damage.

For what it's worth,

Prem

Thanks Prem,
I had planned on covering the edges, but I got in a hurry to camp in and never got around to doing it.
Thats one piece of birch plwood and I cut it so when it's closed the grain still matched.

kevin57 wrote:Thats one piece of birch plwood and I cut it so when it's closed the grain still matched.

Engineer guy, Thanks for the info and the compliment. Always like new configurations.

Prem,
Good idea about the hard wood around the edges. Wish I used hardwood around my countertop edge instead of pine. I was thinking weight since it is in the front nose of my trailer. Weight would have minimal though considering the amount needed. Next Time!!!

Chris,

Hey, it's never too late. Just sand the edges with fine sandpaper and glue the strips on with epoxy and nail. You can use finishing nails (the thinner the better) or those boat nails (bronze silicon).

It's so easy to ding the plywood edges and damage the top veneer edge without that protective, hardwood strip. Without 'em you end up having to replace the whole table, sooner or later. (Done that.) NG.

I had a removable table in my teardrop that had a white oak tape edge around it, put on with epoxy. Even though it was almost paper thin, the epoxy made it really tough. I also used the epoxy to glue down and clamp all the flakes that were coming loose from the plywood edge. I put a coat of epoxy on the outer edge all the way around too. Took a beating and kept on resisting.

Prem