Propane lines

[weeeee]

I plan on adding a propane tank or two to my tongue, where do you bring the propane line in?

Drill a hole in floor near where your propane device is located, and just seal it up with silicone caulk?

[Prem]

Yup.

[AWK]

Is there a specific type of tubing used? Where is the best place to purchase this?

AWK

[madjack]

...if the lines are run on the outside of trailer, they should be in black iron pipe...connections into the trailer can be made up with appropriately rated rubber hose...copper should be avoided because of possibility of vibratory cracks.................
madjack

[MikeW]

+1 on the black iron pipe for the main supply lines. Cheap, rugged, reliable and the industry standard. Once you are done a manometer like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Manometer-Gas-LPG-P ... _998wt_905 is the best way to pressure test the system for leaks.

[GreatPumpkin]

...if the lines are run on the outside of trailer,
madjack

Drop the "if". Propane lines should NEVER be run inside an RV. They should be run only on the outside, underneath the trailer. You would then run the line into the trailer, thru the floor, at the location of the appliance you would be using.
This connection can be made with a flexible hose that is rated for RV use. (Different than those rated for home use). You can also use the flexible copper to make the final connection, but if there is any regular movement - like a stove in a pull out, the flexible hose would be the better choice.

they should be in black iron pipe...connections into the trailer can be made up with appropriately rated rubber hose...copper should be avoided because of possibility of vibratory cracks.................

Let me quantify my statement by giving full disclosure; I've only restored 2 different travel/camp trailers previously,so I am by no means an expert.

I re-did an older, small 16'ish camper. It's propane supply lines were all flexible copper.

I restored a 26' 1964 Airstream Overlander. It's propane supply lines were all flexible copper.

(Flexible copper comes in rolls, and is easily bent. It is usually referred to as "tubing". Hard copper pipe comes in "sticks"and is used in plumbing. It is not appropriate for propane use).

Code evidently allows for either copper tubing or black iron pipe. Not that many of our TD builds would meet code in a lot of cases. I think? towables typically use copper, and driveables typically use black iron - but don't quote me on that...

As far as I recall everyone on the Airstream forum used copper, not black iron pipe when restoring our trailers. I've never had an issue with copper and I am planning on using it on my TD.

[Prem]

For what it's worth:

I've seen copper tubing under the trailer get pinholes in it from rocks/pebbles thrown up by the rear wheels of the tow vehicle. I put copper tubing for propane inside 1/2" plastic pipe as a protector. (Whatever is free and laying around or at the swap meet for a buck: PVC, CPVC or clear vinyl.)

[ilbigredtruck]

Enclosed trailers that have living quarters from factory do run a steel line under the trailer then brought up through the floor at the location of the appliances, then sealed with silicone from the elements. The new trailers also have a propane leak detector that the initial propane line comes into. This device when sensing a leak inside the LQ will shut off the propane immediately to the inside of the trailer. You probably wouldn't need to be that fancy but please by all means spend the extra few dollars on a seperate stand alone detector for LP/carbon monoxide.

[weeeee]

I think that I am going to start out with a Big Buddy Heater using a 20LB LP tank.
I know it is dangerous to have the LP tank inside the trailer so I want to keep it outside either on the tongue or just move it outside when I reach my destination.
I don't want to add anymore holes into my trailer then necessary. I am thinking of just feeding the LP extension hose somewhere through the trailer and inside when I park.

Any opinions on either adding some type of pass-through on the side or underneath the trailer?

[Steve_Cox]

It never hurts to check all the LP connections before lighting an appliance that first time when you set up camp. I use one of those long lighters to check for leaks... I mean a little soapy water in a spray bottle.

[toyota_mdt_tech]

I have used flexible 3/8" copper line. I added the double flare at the ends.

[Ageless]

Steve;

Last time I mentioned using a flame to check for leaks, I got put down. A week Later on 'Modern Marvels' they showed manufacture of quick-recovery gas water heaters. How do you suppose they check for leaks in manufacturing?

Long nosed butane lighter

[Prem]

Pyromaniac RV Technicians Union.

(I've used that technique.....and liquid soap to find any links.)

[eamarquardt]

Using propane on a boat can be very dangerous because the gas is heavier than air, settles in the bilge (bottom of the boat) when there's a leak, and then goes boom when ignited.

So, hoses used on boats must be pretty good to be safe. I plan on using these hoses:

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=159530F

and adding an extra layer of protection like spilt wiring loom or old garden hose to protect from chaffing, rocks, etc.

Not cheap but more flexible and resiliant than copper or iron pipe.

Nothing's perfect!

Cheers,

Gus

[pete42]

having owned several Travel Trailers over the years they all had the propane lines ran in black pipe along the frame from the tank up through the floor with a short pipe nipple capped off with a shutoff valve then copper tubing to the furnace and stove.

I would NOT run any of the lines inside any type of covering be it pvc or garden hose if for some reason you got a leak the fumes would stay in the covering and possibly if conditions were right go BOOM!