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winter camping!

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:11 am
by southpennrailroad
As some of you might be aware, I am living in my cargo for the duration of what ever and need some help.

Moisture is my number 1 problem. I use a blue flame heater which works great but need to get the walls insulated for next year. Doing my homework now and was wondering if you have any suggestions as to how to insulate the trailer. Right now it is 13 out at 4 am and the walls are wet on the inside skin of the trailer. Inside temp is a comfortable 64.

Thinking that putting the blue 1 inch Styrofoam insulation is good for the voids between the studs but to seal the gaps next to the studs is my question. Should maybe I put up plastic as well to keep the moisture from reaching the inside of the wall skin as a vapor barrier. I figure that by adding the insulation and to get rid of moisture I would leave the vent open wider.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 6:21 am
by Nathan N
Each cargo trailer manufacturer seems to be different when it comes to their wall studs. Some are Z shaped while others are U shaped.

On our Wells Cargo they have a U shape with the single flat at bottom of U the outside skin mounting surface and the two flat legs at the open end of U are the inside mounting surface. Measuring the distance between the U's allows a tight fit, but you can't flex the insulation enough to get it behind the "flats" of the inside mounting surfaces.

So I opted to cut the insulation tight and then cut it vertically near the middle so I could insert the outside edges inside the "flats" and then wedge the middle cut edges of the insulation together. Some heavy duct tape then covered that middle seam. 1" wide strips of the blue insulation was then ripped on table saw and wedged into the open U facing the inside of the trailer.

After that was installed I put the factory luan back up. Then we installed a layer of 1/4" blue styrofoam insulation sheet that comes folded. I just stapled it over the entire factory luan. Then I installed our paneling over that. I had read about moisture and figured an additional layer would help alleviate that problem.

I also read a bunch about heaters on the forum. I decided the safest and best for moisture problem would be a forced-air furnace. I finally got around to getting it plumbed and love it. They may be more expensive than any of the heaters you have purchased or are contemplating purchasing but together you might be close to what I paid for our furnace.

We haven't done as much cold camping as you but while we get some moisture on metal windows and metal trim around the door we don't have moisture all over the walls/ceiling. And this is with the furnace or an electric heater - not a moisture prone propane heater.

I've read your story with interest and hope. Hope that you remain safe and sound through this. I know you aren't able to at this time but I think the most bang for your buck would be insulation - not a bigger heater. I believe once you insulate the trailer you will be happy with the results and greatly reduced heating demand. I also think the sound deadening would be a welcome benefit as well.

Best of luck,
Nathan

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 7:08 am
by southpennrailroad
Thanks Nathan

I have the spars as "u" channels with the hollow facing outside or skin. I will keep this in mind but am a little bit scared about the loss of even an inch of space as that is from head to foot sleeping room. I am doing my research now for next year (spring) ours sounds the best right now.

Thanks once more.

I just checked the temps and the Yahoo says it is 10 outside and inside my temps read 68 @7:07 am . As long as I don't run out of fuel I will be alright. Comfy as of now @ 10 degrees.My outside meter reads 17 Still haven't reached -4 as I recall we had last year for a two week period. But still doing fine - the water.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:06 am
by packerz4
Where can we find pics of your camper? Have been enjoying your adventure, but can't seem to find pictures?

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:07 pm
by southpennrailroad
packerz4 wrote:Where can we find pics of your camper? Have been enjoying your adventure, but can't seem to find pictures?


They are located well in the past of the CT files under Danzer Trailer. Try to remember that this was suppose to be only a camper for summer into late fall use. That is the reason I haven't been able to insulate it and have to use it now. And then the money was bad for this year. o back to page 9-10 pages in the cargo section. Yes I suppose I was one of the first when mike decided to make a Cargo section back in 2006. Try looking at all southpennrailroad sections.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 5:12 pm
by mikeschn
I would think about putting EPS in between the studs.

Then I would laminate some 1/4" EPS to your inside skin of choice. Then fasten that inside skin to the studs, with the 1/4" EPS facing the studs.

The reason being is that the aluminum studs conduct the cold extremely well, and you want a barrier between the studs and the wood.

Any other ideas?

Mike...

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 3:07 am
by vtx1029
I think any insulation will help. What if you got some 1/2" sheets and taped them up against the walls for the time being? I know you said you didn't want to loose any length but it may be worth it...

Wishing you the best in your current situation.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:00 am
by bc toys
I put the blue board insolation between the studs it really helped with the heat then put up the wood sides. But while I had it apart I did my wiring. I used the foal wraped bubble wrap looking stuff on the ceiling that helped a lot. Glad you are doing good with your venture.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 7:55 pm
by packerz4
For the time being just hanging quilts or old sleeping bags along the walls would probably help!

PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:19 pm
by Boodro
Any time you have an open gas flame , it puts moisture in the air. I use a ventless fireplace in my house, if I turn it up too high & leave the house closed up , I will find moisture on the walls & windows. There are warnings that come with it & advises you to watch for it. Some people have had water trickling down the walls because the run it too high.Just my 2 sense worth. 8)

PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:03 am
by Deryk the Pirate
A little older post but will respond anyway. I live on a 27 foot sailboat in central NJ, and yes its been a cold winter here too.

First thing you want to do is put insulation up. I went to Home Depot and got some of the 1" DOW pink foam boards and laid it up against the hull everywhere I could behind things. In the Vbirth where I sleep, I laid the insulation against the hull, then a layer of that foil bubble wrap and over it I put 1 of those cheap walmart 5x8 carpets(It matches the color of the outside canvas and boats boot stripe) that made a big impact where I sleep so its much warmer.

Heat, well very important...it needs to be vented outside. Propane at combustion puts out liquid, which isnt helping the condensation problem. I understand money being tight, Ive been unemployed now for almost a year myself. It might be too late for this now, but for next year might be worth doin some hunting on ebay.

I got a marine diesel heater brand new for $255 dollars because I bought it in september and I guess most people werent lookin for heaters yet. It retailed for almost a 1000 dollars. Diesel is a better choice then propane for a few reasons. Cheaper and puts out more btu's of heat then propane pound for pound, doesnt explode, if you put the fuel tank at least 2 feet higher then the burner it can gravity feed and run without any electricity which is great if your dry camping or the power goes out.

http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/dheaters.php (mine is the Newport model...I had their Newport propane on a different boat but did not put out the same quality of heat....but if the trailer is well insulated which boats arent light work out)

I dream of maybe bein able to build a trailer this year for extended camping... or maybe a little 4x8 enclosed one, insulate it add windows and lights and a cool paint job like a little gypsy wagon.... ah its good to dream!

best of luck
deryk

Aluminized Bubble Pack

PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 10:36 am
by Engineer Guy
MISTER Broken Record here [on this topic anyway] would 2nd the Post of 'BC Toys' above: use aluminized 'bubble pack'. 'Astrofoil' is not very expensive, and reflects Infrared like a 'Space Blanket'; a real benefit. It also acts as a Vapor Barrier. A hybrid approach of Astrofoil over EPS would be an improvement you would really feel comfort-wise.

Astrofoil

Reflectix

Damp Rid

PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 12:25 pm
by The Teardrop Nanny
Not going to repeat that insulation would be the best as you've read it before, but would recommend you put some "Damp Rid" where you have your clothing/bedding as it keeps the musty smell away and helps absorb excess moisture. A cheap fix for under $5.oo to help keep cloth, leather, and other items from potential damage due to moisture overload.

TDN :R

PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 7:06 pm
by Shadow Catcher
I will go along with Engineer Guy, I have played around with the Astrofoil using a thermocouple and two layers of the stuff get a 50% improvement in reduction of heat transfer apart from the IR reflectance benefit. I was working on a way to insulate a toaster oven and the readings were before the plastic melted at 300+ degrees :x