24' V-nose, coming soon, to a thread near you.

[Kyle1911]

Hi folks,
I may be jumping the gun a little, as my trailer won't be ready for about 4 weeks, but I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas. My wife and I originally had our hearts set on a factory built travel trailer, in the 26 foot range. After we looked at a few, and got the standard high-pressure sales rap, we started looking for alternatives. I hate to say it, but the factory built trailers look like they were assembled by some bug-eyed fiend, with a Play-Skills tool kit, and his own three hands. They smell nice, and look shiny, but what about 2 or 3 years down the road? We would have lost at least half of our investment by then, and, judging by what others have experienced, likely needed some repairs along the way. Possibly even something major, like a roof leak.
I looked at some of the ct conversions on here, and figured this would be the way to go. I will be buying a light sport trike (aircraft) soon, and this will haul it nicely, while providing the room for the four of us to enjoy camping. I also want to pick up a 14' aluminum boat, so I can take the kids out fishing. The whole thing, including the trailer, should roll nicely up inside. I am already laughing to myself at the looks others will have, in their $100k motorhomes, as the Hillbilly clan rolls in, opens the ramp, and rolls out a boat and trailer, like one of those Russian nesting dolls.
Building it myself, I can get rid of all the useless bling the factory units have, and include stuff that we will use.
Like a lot of you on here, I have been a do it-me-selfer since I was a kid, and this project should be a lot of fun, while saving 50% of what we could have spent at a dealer.
I plan to document as much of this as I can, both the process, and actual amount spent. Hopefully, it may help someone else down the road. I have been lurking here for about a week, and enjoy reading all about other's conversions. I have gained a TON of knowledge from you folks!
Ok, now for some details...
The budget for this has grown from an original guess of 9k, to almost exactly 14k. (Gee, nobody else has had this happen, right?) It seems like a lot of money, but we were looking at, and saving for a factory built trailer in the 25-30k range. Sure glad we thought about it!
I ordered a 24' V-nose Cargomate from Olympic Trailer, in Olympia, Wa. We went over looking for a 20' flat nose unit, but once we looked, we decided on the 24.
The build list:
-7500lb straight axle (recommended by Charles at the factory in Oregon, great guy)
-raised ceiling 6", so it will be 7' in the center, and 6'6" at the sidewalls.
-2-tone silver and black outside
-luan ceiling (No insulation, I'll do that myself)
-2 36x39 escape windows
-32" rv side door with window. Door moved back to front of wheel well
-rear stabilizer jacks
-2 roof vents
-13.5k btu roof AC
-insulated floor with 16oc joists (standard was 24)
-48x36" baggage door on man door side of the V
I had them delete the dome light, and the dovetail at the rear (a 4' slope down to the ramp). I also had them delete the wall and ceiling trim. The units we looked at had them installed with hundreds of staples. Strong, for sure, but I will be pulling the paneling to install insulation, and those looked like a nightmare! all told, it was right at $9800, out the door. I did a lot of internet searching, and this was the best price I could find anywhere near me. Your mileage may vary, but I would recommend Olympic Trailer. Ask for Tyler, if you want a low-pressure guy, who will help you out!
I will be adding the following:
-1" of foam board insulation in the walls and ceiling
-30 amp panel, with 2 20 amp breakers (Yeah, I know that's 40, but a little common sense will prevent breaker-popping)
-35 gallon fresh water, with 2.9 sureflow pump
-kitchen sink, counters, and cabinets
-edge-glue vinyl in the front, marine carpet in the rear, with a 24" strip at the very back, painted with no-skid paint.
-bathroom with porta-potty, and shower
-120v 1500 watt wall heater, with remote t-stat
-120v lighting throughout
-12v lighting on the ceiling, for off-grid use
-3000-4000 watt generator (someday)
-gray water tank is a rolling 30 gallon tank, with a hose. I mulled over mounting one underneath, but settled on this option, for ease of use.
-folding queen bed on the wall for wife and I
-folding bunks for the kids (2)
-folding dinette table, that lifts out of the floor, and stores on the wall.
-Craigslist couch, and 2 chairs, for kicking back
-TV and DVD
Well, that's about it for now. Sorry for the long rambling post, but I am stoked about this! Sure glad I found this forum. So many forums seem to degrade into urination competitions, but this one is full of intelligent, creative minds. I hope I can give back, in exchange for all the ideas, and technical stuff you have all posted here already! Lots more details to come, once I have my grubby hands on the trailer!
Kyle

[brandonb]

Hi, here is an idea for flooring, It is called Allure Ultra Trafficmaster Homedepot sells it, this is a free floating floor and water proof, give you the wood floor look. just a idea

www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ser ... ogId=10053

I am doing a 8x16, and race rc off road and this is what is was thinking and to give you a idea of the floor.

http://www.youtube.com/user/trbotony#p/ ... J3OnoCErSc

[pete42]

Kyle welcome and please post pictures I too want to convert a cargo trailer I only need 1/2 of what yours will be in length.

I have long ago sold my airplanes and they would not fit anyway.
Smith sidewinder homebuilt, and 4 factory builts cessnas, aero comander,
piper cubs, I'm old and they use to be cheap.

On my trailer when and if i get one health issues now, I want stabilizer jacks on all 4 corners some have added 3 per side to stop the bouncing and fore and aft motion when someone gets up and walks around.

good luck and come back often

Ol'Pete

[Kyle1911]

Brandon- Thanks for the link, I like that stuff. I had been looking at Armstrong glueless vinyl sheet, but the plank stuff would fit my application even better!

Pete- I will certainly post pictures. I had the factory add the 2 rear jacks, as I was sure I'd need those. I'll see how it does, but your right, I may need to add front ones as well. Sounds like you had a few planes! I sold my Aeronca Champ about 2 years ago, and not flying is killing me. Trikes are not real cheap, but I was paying $250 per month for a hangar and insurance for the Airknocker. At least the trike folds up, and comes home to roost. Not to mention the fun of camping with it!
Regards, Kyle

[brandonb]

Kyle, No problem, they have a video on it you may want to check that out also. The price of that stuff is not much more then vinyl flooring, one the i was looking at is that you would not have to worry about moisture.

Now i need to figure out how to install a shower/holding tank and hot water heater in mine. lol

[pete42]

wow Aeronca champ I started with a piper cub but the first club I belonged to had an Aeronca chief and a cessna 150.
I won't hog your post so here's hoping you get the trailer soon.
C commerical
S single
M multi
E engine
L land
I instrument rated
all too many years ago
keep us posted on build.
pete

[CaptD]

Kyle what width is your CT going to be and what's your pull vehicle. I have been drawing plans for a CT/Toyhauler myself and am looking at 7x24-26. You're right about most of the trailers out there today - To much flash and to much junk. CaptD.

[Kyle1911]

Capt, I went with the 8.5' wide model. We stood inside the 7', and then walked over to the 8.5', and there was no comparison, for the few extra $. (Funny how I talked myself in deeper and deeper while adding "Just a few bucks more" here and there) As for a tow vehicle, my father in law has a late 90's F-350 we will be borrowing for our first summer. It's only got about 50k on it, and he only uses it to tow his 5th wheel, about twice a year. Once the budget recovers from this build, I'll be trading in my S10 on either an Avalanche, or Suburban. Hopefully, the completed weight will be around 5k lbs, and half ton towable. I look at the weights of the factory built toyhaulers, and shake my head. How much can Chinese plywood weigh? Oh, wait, it's made from 25% lead.... Kyle

[jwhite]

I think the F350 is going to spoil you,after that a half ton just won't be enough at least that is what my buddy says.
He bought a 8.1/2 x 24 and made a toyhauler to carry a polaris ranger 4x4 he had a 1/2 ton pickup and said it was to much trailer for his truck he traded it in for a 350 diesel cummings = part of his reasoning is that he is planning to retire and sell his house and buy a full size toyhauler and live in it full time.
I have a 1/2 ton suburban pulling a 7x16 enclosed trailer with a golf cart inside and I know I am pulling a full load,I see 1/2 ton's pulling alot more but I wouldn't want to or not very far.
I can tell a big difference when pulling my utility trailer with the same golf cart.

[Kyle1911]

jwhite, thanks for the first hand info. I had wondered if the 1/2 ton would be enough. It seems like the manufacturers throw out an impressive towing number, but real-world results are way different. Maybe I'll be looking at a 2500 'burban with the 8.1 liter, or the rare-as-hens teeth Avalanche 2500. Gotta have room for the rugrats, and the diesel would be impractical for us, as it would be used for short, 4 mile commutes when not towing... Kyle

[vtx1029]

I may be wrong but I think it some states its illegal to pull a trailer rated for more weight then your truck is rated to pull. I'm assuming your trailer will have a GVW of 10000 or more... You'll really be better off stepping up to a 3/4 ton.

Looking forward to seeing your pictures. I'm also planning a new 20' V nose toy hauler for our motorcycles. We currently have a 18' trailer but it got hailed on bad so we plan to start over in the spring.

I'm also an A&P and a grounded pilot by way of $$ i feel your pain

If you have not looked or have a load distribution hitch I use and recommend http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ You can thank me later

[Kyle1911]

vtx- I had the option to go with 10k lb torsion bar axles, but I chose the 7000lb leaf spring axles. Check my logic here, as I have never towed one of these devils, but wouldn't a lightly loaded 10k axle ride rougher on the the trailer and it's contents than a 7k axle loaded to 2/3 capacity? This trailer, even with all the options I added, should come in right around 3700lbs empty. If it takes 1500lbs of stuff to make it the way I want it inside, I'd be surprised. So, with a 7000lb GVWR on the trailer, I'll have around 1800lbs of useful load hauling left, before I hit max. That seems low, for a conventional toy hauler, but I could haul a trike (500lbs), and a couple of dirtbikes (250lbs ea), some extras, and still be under gross. The 7000 GVWR of the trailer, makes it half ton legal (not ideal, but insurable, and not ticketable) for a bunch of vehicles to tow. For the 95% of the time I won't be towing with my rig, it will sure be nicer to drive a half ton. If anyone has a compelling reason to go with the 10k axles, or can find a fault in my logic, please speak up! I'm not proud, and I might still have time to change for the 10k, before they start welding away at the factory. Oh, and the equalizer hitch will be a part of this too, for sure. Everyone who has actually towed larger trailers swears by them. Who am I to disagree? I've got a tentative floorplan worked out, and I'll try to post it later today, once Wifey the Smart One gets home, and helps me get it out of Excel (does it for me).
Thanks, Kyle
Here's a link to the Cargomate Blazer page. Nothing special, but it gives some specs.
http://www.cargomatetrailer.com/default ... hoice=home

[vreihen]

vtx- I had the option to go with 10k lb torsion bar axles, but I chose the 7000lb leaf spring axles.

I read several posts in a pickup truck forum that all said the most important feature on a car hauler was Dexter brand torsion axles. They are supposedly the cat's meow, and make the trailer tow really smooth. That's why they were on my short list of requirements when I was going to have a car hauler custom built, along with .040 skin and a one-piece roof.

As I had posted in another thread, I purchased a leftover 24' V-nose Featherlite car hauler late last summer instead of having a trailer custom built. I towed it home empty behind my diesel Ram 2500, and it was so smooth that I didn't even know it was there. I loaded my 3,000 race car and 500 pound roller toolbox onto it, and dragged it on 200+ mile trips a few times last fall. Again, it just followed along with no fanfare, and nothing inside seemed to get bounced around. The trailer tipped the CAT scales at 2,950 pounds empty (all aluminum with no interior wall skins), and the torsion axles (unknown brand) are an odd capacity in being rated for 9,800 pounds total. To simplify things, figure that I had 6.5K on 10K axles, and it didn't bounce around at all. It bears mentioning that I am towing it with just a trailer hitch ball, no anti-sway or weight distributing setup.

Long story short, don't let fear of a bouncy ride make your axle capacity decision for you. However, whether you choose to go with 7K or 10K axles, I highly recommend going with a torsion axle setup over leaf springs. People who own trailers with them swear that they will never own a trailer without them ever again in another forum, and although I have never towed anything that heavy with spring axles, I can't say enough about the torsion axles and radial tires on my Featherlite for the smooth tow and ride they provide.

One other piece of advice that I can offer is to make sure that the manufacturer tags it for 9,990 pounds MGVW if you go with the heavier axles, as 10K+ is commercial drivers license material in some states.....

[vtx1029]

I think the 7000 gvw is a sound choice but I second whats written above. Torsion axle all the way! Our 18' trailer tracks very smooth loaded or empty. Make sure they also have the ez lube hubs, it allows you to grease the bearings with out pulling them apart.

[Prem]

Kyle,

How much can Chinese plywood weigh? Oh, wait, it's made from 25% lead....

Not lead. It's depleted uranium, strontium and toxic milk solids.

I will never again own Ez-Lube axle spindles. A guy I know almost lost his life when one broke off at high speed. They have a hollow tube down the middle that reduces their strength. Forget the convenience. I actually want to disassemble the hubs and look at the bearings and races instead of forever greasing them without seeing the condition of the parts.

Stay safe.

I second the torsion axle recommendation. Soooo much better, lighter, easier and so much less metal to rust.

Best wishes on your build.

Prem