Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

If this has been posted before forgive me.
I have only been considering a CT with a ramp because I use a mobility scooter when on trips I carry it in the back of my truck under the shell.
when pulling a trailer if we want to stop and sighsee it means unhooking the trailer to unload the scooter if I had a CT just drop the ramp and done.
but this limits me to only those trailers.
what would you do if I were to find a trailer with rear doors pass or buy and use removable ramps?

help me decide. thanks

pete

The assisted ramp door on a CT is sooooo easy to open that you will never look at "barn" doors again.

I think for your mobility scooter it's gonna be the best option.

Pete, I agree with Jo about the ease of pulling the ramp down and putting back up. You would have more difficulties IMHO having to open the barn doors, pull out the portable ramps, set them up, get the scooter out, put the ramps back in and then shut the doors. When all you have to do is pull the ramp down, get the scooter out and push the ramp back up. The only roadblock to either is having a parking space big enough for the ramp while siteseeing. Both types of ramps will take up about the same space behind the trailer.

My wife and I have the ramp type CT. When we camp we use a couple of jacks under the ramp to level it and have a raised "deck" to sit on and a EZ-UP over top of it. Comes in handy during wet weather not having to worry about wet/dirty shoes when going in or out.

I don't know about anyone else, but driving a vehicle of any type up narrow, movable ramps really makes me feel uneasy. I don't even think twice about driving up the ramp door on my race car hauler though, because it is firmly attached to the trailer and was intended to be driven up/down. The door is counter-weighted with a huge spring, and it can be raised or lowered with only a few fingers.

Let me throw in a piece of advice that my late father gave me. If you have a choice between a low-end item and a high-end item, spring for the high end. If you don't, you will always be looking at the item you settled for and regret not buying the better one. With that said, it certainly sounds like you require a CT with a ramp door. Add it to your list of requirements, and do not look at (or settle for) a trailer that doesn't come with one.

I assume that you're building your trailer to get out and see places, and would hate to hear that you skipped some sightseeing just because you saved a couple bucks on a trailer without a ramp door and didn't want to deal with the hassle/scare of using folding ramps.....

vreihen wrote:I don't know about anyone else, but driving a vehicle of any type up narrow, movable ramps really makes me feel uneasy.... the hassle/scare of using folding ramps.....

Wouldn't bother these guys:

http://www.angelfire.com/ak2/intelligen ... _bike.html

I think I had a nightmare once where I was doing something like that.

My main concern is when at a campground (I haven't boondock yet,) that the ramp may hit a curb or stop when backed into the site and I would not be able to unload my scooter using removable ramps would, may, could solve this problem.

vreihen
I have 10 foot long ramps now that I use to load/unload the scooter from my pickup trucks bed, I don't ride it in I stand beside it and walk it in.

Using movable ramps would mean I would have to go through the same dance to load/unload I do now.

thanks for all the replies

pete

Pete,
I've spent 25 years loading stuff in and out of trucks and trailers with removable ramps. If I've learned one thing, its that the ramps tend to "Remove" themselves at the worst possible time. I know several guys who have been seriously hurt loading motorcycles, and I myself have taken some painful falls. If I were in your position, I'd go with the ramp door every time. Add some no-skid paint, or adhesive sandpaper-like safety strips, and go for it! If you have to select another site to camp in, it seems better to me than the risk of a roll over in the scooter chair. You might consider a simple rope and pulley system for the ramp door, and an additional latching system on the inside. As I visualize your situation, the only problem I see is getting the door closed by yourself, once inside. You roll up the ramp, turn around, and "Oops, how the hell do I close the ramp now??" With the lift assist, and some eyeball engineering, a pulley on the roof of the trailer, and some rope might do the trick. Latch from inside, and you are good to go. With interior latches you would have another way out, without leaving your chair, in the event of fire or other emergency. Just my .02 cents worth. Kyle

Kyle good advice
I might add I can walk just not very far and not for a very long time, that goes for standing too.

I do know what you mean about the ramps removing themselves happened to me
but the scooter was near the bottom of the ramps it fell straight down no more than a foot or so
but enought that I now use the pins through the ramp lip and into my truck tailgate.

I will stick with the ramp if and when I get a CT.

pete

You will not regret getting a CT with a ramp in the rear. It makes access so much easier eapecially with very heavy items. I used my CT for a couple of moves prior to converting and really think the ramp was better than any other syetm I could have come up with.

Local Lady has a 7X16 CT with rear doors she lost her husband and has sold their Motor home and sail boat and feels like she doesn't have a need for the Haul mark CT.

she said it has only been used three times, those three times was a move from Arizonia to Florida her son used it to move from Florida to Ohio and she used it to move from Florida to Ohio.

Says she paid $5800 for the trailer and hasn't decided on a sale price I can tell she will want $4000 plus just the way she acted.

I think I will pass on the trailer

the 7X12 ones I have been looking at for a couple years would only cost around $5000 with windows, ramp door, rv door with screen door and window, 2 vents, 4 jacks, brakes, longer tongue for propane & battery they also insulate I just don't know how well they insulate so I may do that my self I will also add beds and counter and draws/cabinets and electric.
sure wish the price of gas would go down.......

pete42 wrote: ....they also insulate I just don't know how well they insulate so I may do that my self....

'Bout ten years ago I bought a 6x12 cargo trailer for conversion purposes from a quality national trailer builder. Had the insulation put in the walls at the factory. I removed the interior plywood to install a nicer grade plywood and was disappointed in the insulation. I don't know what I should have expected but what I got was 1" white beadboard that covered about 90% of the wall surface. It was poorly fit and was generally loose inside the wall, don't know why hot or cold air wouldn't just go around it. I suppose it did have some insulating effect, just not nearly what could have been done inside the wall.

The side and rear doors were bonded with a foam core so they came insulated even if I hadn't ordered their insulation package.

Trackstriper
that is what I'm afraid would happen to me.
If and when I get a CT I will most likely do it myself
it will take a long time but time is all I have.
pete

Why not get a v-nose with a ramp door in the front you could use for your scooter and barn doors in the back! Best of both worlds.

vtx1029 wrote:Why not get a v-nose with a ramp door in the front you could use for your scooter and barn doors in the back! Best of both worlds.

Not something I would want If and when I ever buy I want a V-nose for the counter, microwave, sink, cabinets ect.
but still a good idea if I wasn't looking to add all the extras.
pete

Just finished a long trip to Mexico and home; followed by a 2d trip a week later to Death Valley and back thru the redwoods. My 7 X 10 + V-nose with barn doors worked perfectly. On the second trip I took less stuff.

I like the barn doors because when they are open they provide some privacy, tho' I need to find a simpler way to rig them so they stay open 180 degrees to the sides. Other than not providing the wall extension, not sure there's much of a down side to a ramp door other than slightly greater weight.

Never had to pay for an RV park. Never needed hookup. My 12 volt system was plenty for my needs. Boondocked the entire trip or simply stayed in a parking lot one night in Winnemucca. Despite my 3 windows, the 'stealth' quality seemed to work. No one paid any attention except others who were into unconventional camping and came over and asked for a tour.