Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello we are getting ready to start the conversion of our CT to a full time camper. Spent to many days with Grandpa and heard him complain about factor campers; therefore, he build his own and it lasted well over 20 years and then we lost contact with who has it. I am wanting to install the 8 kw gnerator that I have so that it can be slid out and used when no Camp Ground supply is needed. Any one out ther that has done this type of modification to their CT?

It is a very common feature on race car haulers from various vendors. They usually put a hatch door in the front on the street side, and build a faux cabinet inside to hold the generator:





I've also seen insulated cabinets used with vented doors and fans, but that might be too noisy for overnight use.

Here's a picture of drawer slides being used in a DIY generator sliding shelf project:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159/generator-drawer-slide-33447.html

In a CT, this could be as simple as a common RV cargo hatch or luggage door, some heavy duty drawer sliders, and an interior cabinet.....

I started out wanting the generator door but they would have to extend the frame because I wanted a Vnose with a slant front roof,
it was going to cost something like 1000.00 more so I decided not to go that route.
I guess if I needed and already had a large generator then I would go that route.
I am glad I did not have them do it now I have a honda 2000 generator and I put it out by my front wheel on my Suburban and run a cable through the wheel and lock it,and I can barely hear it running at night so I think with it in the trailer it would be to much noise for me.?
The honda generator was one of the best things I have bought for my trailer,I also bought the extended run gas tank so you can add gas to the extended run tank while the generator is running so it runs non stop until I am ready to leave.

Thanks for the input. I had considered hanging on the rear ramp but since I want to use it as a sreened in deck or patio while camping I think I will go with the wheels that are on it and if needed just place it out of the way secured of course. I currently have a 30 ft 50 amp rated cord. We picked up the carpet that we are going to place on the floor. The wife is working on the quilted blanks that we will use if the temperature warrents. I will be creating blog on the contruction process with the help of my son. Probably start the process once it cools off again here in Texas.

All you would need is a door big enough for the generator.. You could insulate the box very well to cut down down on the noise in the trailer. Just have it where you open the hatch to run the generator. I wouldn't even worry about having it on tracks to slide out.. Depending on the weight the tracks wouldn't be to hard to come by.. Somewhere like mcmaster.com should have something.. BottomDollar surplus on ebay is a good place to look for hatch doors. I understand your reasoning behind wanting it mounted.. 8k generators are very heavy. A 50amp cord is pretty big for a Cargo trailer. Why so much power? When your building it keep in mind most RVs use mainly 12v for lighting, fans, ect. Only things you really need 110v for is things like a microwave, AC, Fridge and a tv if you don't get a 12v tv. Running everything on 12v keeps the 110v load down, cuts back on the wiring and it also allows you to be less dependent on shore power.

Always been by down fall always go one level higher then you think you will need. And to continue with your comment on most RV use 12 VDC Lights is there a good book to aquire to assist with my wiring of the trailer.
You know when one buys a car hauler to carry ATVs and not a car one is thinking long term and lets do it one time on the build. I am looking at this build out as an adventure into the wild with the wife of 38 plus years. She will be making the custom quilts and bedding that will be there for us to use.

You can look around in the electrical forum on this sight. Most all the people their are talking about Teardrops though. There is some good info non the less.
A very basic quick and dirty is in a typical travel trailer you have a plug in for your trailer.. Most cases this is a 30 amp cord. That runs to a Converter. This converter has both your 110vAC breakers in it as well as your 12v fuses. You also run 12v from your battery to this box. How this box works is when your plugged in the converter Puts out 12v to charge the battery and run your 12v stuff. It also distributes 110v to any appliances like your microwave, tv, ect via the breakers.. Now the reason to go mainly 12v where you can is so once your unplugged from 110v most of the trailer still functions off the battery. So lights still work, radio still plays, ect.. In real world use this a huge benefit.
Most RV appliances are made to run on 12v. So if you add a hot water heater or a furnace your going to have to have 12v anyway.

BTW Like I said earlier it cuts down on wiring. For 110v you need 3 wires to everything. With 12v all you need is a single Low voltage wire. So its safer and easier.. Some say run dedicated grounds to everything. But even if you do that your still talking much less wire and again its low voltage so much saver.. Thing 110v AC and metal box one short can be a big deal. Vs properly fused 12v wiring. A short just = a popped fuse.