Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello!

Long time lurker and finally decided to join as I am thinking about purchasing a cargo trailer to convert. Before I purchase I have a few ideas then questions at the end that hopefully I can get some answers to first.

In my now months long internet research internet and visits to a few trailer dealers, I have narrowed the options down to two which I will detail below, but first I will describe my needs and also my tow vehicle.

Needs for a Trailer
Whichever trailer I purchase will be used as a base camp setup on fairly good all weather to 3 season forest service roads in the PNW area of Canada. I do a lot of hiking and photography which entails a lot of legwork to remote areas that are not accessible by vehicle at all. With using the trailer as a base camp, I will be able to carry a bit more equipment and also have a warmer place to sleep or shelter in the colder months.

I had looked at travel trailers and I know from previous experience, they do not last long due to inferior build and product materials quality. At least with a cargo trailer version, I have complete control over both the workmanship and material quality. I might add that I do have intermediate carpentry and general wood working experience and also have years of both professional and personal mechanical experience that will be of some benefit..

Tow Vehicle
Older Jeep Cherokee Sport (not Grand model) in very good mechanical and structural condition. The engine is the venerable HO 4 Lt, Inline 6. The transmission is a 5 speed manual with heavier duty aftermarket clutch. The owners manual suggests a 2000 LB tow limit with this configuration, however that takes into the consideration that the manual transmission and clutch is the weak point, and albeit it is usually the driver who burns out the clutch due to misuse. The Cherokee is also equipped with 2 year old rear springs which also include a helper leaf.

The Cherokee dimensions are:
Overall height: 64 inches
Overall width: 63 inches.


Trailer purchase options
As above, I have narrowed down the trailer selection to 2 options with both being Haulmark Trailer designs and which both have a few extra add-ons when ordered from the factory with the most important being electric breaks due to the mountainous regions around here.

First option: Haulmark 6x10. Curb weight: 1100 lbs
This is my preferred option due to the extra interior width that will allow a bed across the back for my 5'9" (69 inches) frame. The interior width of this trailer is 68 inches which would mean that I could not lay completely straight on the bed. Then again, years of sleeping in very small tents, etc means that this not a real big concern as almost every person sleeps somewhat curled anyway.

The negatives about this trailer is the exterior body width of 72 inches which is 11 inches wider then the TV. Also the overall exterior height of the trailer at 92 inches is significantly higher then the 64 inches of the TV's overall height. With both the extra width and height taken into account, my concern is that the trailer is going to become a rather large wind sail and have some of the proverbial, "tail wagging the dog" effect on the TV.


Second option: Haulmark 5x10. Curb weight: 1050 lbs
This option is second due to the reduced width of the trailer as compared to the 6x10. The interior width on this is 56 inches which definitely rules out a cross width bed and having to fabricate a 24 to 30 inch folding bed that runs along the length of the trailer. Although this is not idea, after mocking up, a to scale outline of the trailer on the kitchen and dinning room floor, it is still somewhat acceptable as the trailer would only mainly be used for sleeping purposes anyway. The other concern is the lose of height in the interior. The interior height is 66 inches whereas I am 67 inches tall so there would be some stooping involved especially after adding ceiling insulation. Again, not idea but still somewhat acceptable considering the overall purpose of the trailer.

With this trailer, the overall exterior height drops to 86 inches and the overall exterior body width is 60 inches which would absolve much of the "tail wagging the dog" concerns noted above with the 6x10 trailer.


In terms of weight, there is only 50 lbs curb weight difference between the 2 trailers which is no real concern. Over the years, my main packing list of truck camping gear has not changed much and I consider it as a very minimalist style compared to others here and on other forums. When I did my mock ups with the 5x10 trailer, I weighed all my gear (including food, water, dishes, clothes, cameras, small folding table, camp stove, propane fuel bootle etc) for a typical 3-5 day outing) on a borrowed industrial scale, the total weight was 240 lbs. The interior of the trailer will be of minimal design and the bed frame, shelves and small cabinet, regardless of chosen trailer will be constructed from aluminum tubing which will save substantial weight over more traditional wood construction used in most trailers. For the bed mattress, I will be using my inflating hiking mattress which is included in the above gear weight.

Taking my gear, all interior construction materials etc into account which have been researched extensively, the trailer will come in at about 170 lbs which leaves plenty of weight leeway of TV conservative 2000 lb limit.


With all the above outlined, my one main question is this:

With the 6x10 trailer's extra height and weight as compared to the TV and causing a possible "tail wagging the dog" problem valid enough to step down the 5x10 trailer? The final total weight of either trailer should not be a concern due my minimalist design and gear. Also I am a conservative driver and rarely exceed 50-60 miles per hour on the highways around here and there are no big interstate multi-lane type highways to contend with where high speed and fast semi-truck and trailers can cause wind related problems when passing etc.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and feedback.

first of all welcome
seems to me you have planed well and the question is to stoop or not to stoop.
a bed along the side is fine with most and answers that question.
most people sit once in their trailers so the head room or the lack of it is the only thing you really need to worry about.
I have found driving at the speeds you said trailers pull very well go 10 15 miles faster and the frontal area comes into play big time.
Never been in the PNW never drove forest roads you have but it sounds narrow and short would be better than wide and tall.
what is your gut feeling? go with it.
pete

Is the following an option?

5x10 Vee nose with 6" of extra height?

Stays the same width as your truck but more standing room. I think it's very important to not exceed the width of your truck for mileage and concerns of fitting between trees when off road. The vee will also lessen the sail effect of the portion that protrudes above the cab of your vehicle.

The vee may also help when driving through trees as it will brush to the side low hanging tree branches instead of hitting them with a flat front. I might also have diamond plate all the way to the top of the front to further sheild against low branch damage.

Do not purchase a trailer that will just "do" you will not be happy and resent that you didn't get EXACTLY what best fit your intended use.

You could always add sway control to the trailer, but I really think you would be fine. I doubt you would notice a difference in the truck's performance in pulling either trailer. As said you may run into more problems with trees and stuff. I'd choose the taller inside height personally. Maybe go with a 5 x 12 and the extra 6" of interior height...

I looked long and hard on the 5 versus 6 difference. My thinking was that extra inside room would be more handy with my being married .. so two to three inside the camper.
My thoughts on 10, 12 or 14 was 10 was not enough to suit me knowing I'd eventually want to add many extras even if I did say I'd start frugally and bare basics. I ended up with the 12.
I wish I had found one with a bit more height. Mine's flat 6 so inside room is like 5'10 or so with inside ceiling insulated and luan installed. I'm 5'10 so all I bump inside are my 12v lights and the door frame. LOL.
I can't lay width wise.. but that's ok.
I'll remake the bed frame later and go wall to wall sides with a Queen foam in 8" and be much nicer. Using a regular full mattress right now.

Thanks everyone and apologies for the belated replies. Since my initial post, I have decided on a Haulmark 6x10 CT with rear barn doors. The trailer will be officially ordered the 1st week of October once the car is sold (already have a buyer).

The only options I will be ordering is electric brakes and a 30x22 window to be installed at the factory. The reason for the factory installed window comes down to cost ($251.00) vs time and one less thing to work on. I still also have to decide on whether to go with the V-Nose or not. I am on the fence on this but leaning to ordering it as it is only $81.00 extra.

Once ordered, delivery time is 6-8 weeks so this makes it early December. In the meantime, we are still deciding on the floorplan and staying with the minimal concept.

The photo below is of the very same trailer (minus above options) we will be ordering. It is also the same color (champagne) which is hard to see due to the lighting when the photo was taken. The champagne color was chosen as it is the closet matching color to the TV which is dark brown.

Specs:
Exterior
Size: 6x10
Overall length: 14' (this could change if V-Nose is ordered)
Overall width: 92"
Overall height: 94"

Interior
Length: 10'5" (this could change if V-Nose is ordered)
Width: 68"
Height: 73"

Curb weight: 1100 lbs.
GVWR: 2980 lbs

Since you're having it done at the factory, I'd suggest a small sliding window on the opposing side for air flow through. That's something I learned last night in a stay at the lake.
I was wishing I had a opposite side window to open to flow through the breeze.
Being about functionality and minimal myself, I didn't like having to run a fan when I knew it was so cool outside. And as you said ...

The reason for the factory installed window comes down to cost ($251.00) vs time and one less thing to work on.

I've pulled mine loaded to a campsite three times in the last two months. I Think a V-nose would have assisted my fuel consumption enough to be beneficial.

BC,

I think you made the better choice going with the 6x10. You will appreciate the added width and height. Stooping in a trailer, or any enclosure gets old fast. I have cross bunks in the back of my 6x10 and like yours internal width is about 68" and I am 73" tall. That is not a problem for me because I sleep with my head in the corner closest to the barn doors and at an angle on the bunk, which gives me the extra few inches I need to completely stretch out if I want to (I usually sleep on my back). One foot (actually just the heel of it) hangs off the bunk a tad but it is not at all uncomfortable.

I tow my 6x10 round nose CT with a 2001 Jeep Cherokee and have never experienced any tail wagging. I think it will be a non-issue for you.

Welcome to the forum!

Don

I too like the idea of two windows for air flow.

pete

I have the 6X12 Haulmark V-Nose, and LOVE it! I have my bed width-wise. The extra room in the nose gives me lots of storage space. (See pics with link) I also have a window on each side, installed at the factory. The breeze on warm evenings is very welcome. I also have two roof vents, and a fantastic fan that runs on 12 volts.

So far on mine, I wouldn't change a thing that I ordered or did to it. I only have one puzzle still unsolved, and that's an easy in-out screen door for the side, and that's another post!

PM me if you need any details. I've got 18,000 miles and nearly 100 nights in mine already, in just less than two years!

Thanks everyone one the advise of adding an extra window for airflow. I am not sure if the cost of the 2nd window ($251.00 x2 = $502.00) now warrants a factory install financially wise. I will have to wait for the dealer to open on Monday so I can call and ask on this extra window cost. I may end up installing the windows myself...

I mocked up some full floor plans (used 1x2's and painter's tape) today on the kitchen/living room floor. The more I think about it, the thought of ordering the V-Nose makes more sense as I am sure that once I start converting, I will be suffering from buyers remorse if I don't order the V-Nose now.

@Gonefishin: The trailer comes with one roof vent and maybe I should think about ordering another as they are only about $50.00, factory installed.

If you ever want to install a roof AC unit or install a fan getting an extra vent makes it a whole lot easier than cutting and fitting one your self.

BC_Explorer wrote:Thanks everyone one the advise of adding an extra window for airflow. I am not sure if the cost of the 2nd window ($251.00 x2 = $502.00) now warrants a factory install financially wise. I will have to wait for the dealer to open on Monday so I can call and ask on this extra window cost. I may end up installing the windows myself...

I mocked up some full floor plans (used 1x2's and painter's tape) today on the kitchen/living room floor. The more I think about it, the thought of ordering the V-Nose makes more sense as I am sure that once I start converting, I will be suffering from buyers remorse if I don't order the V-Nose now.

@Gonefishin: The trailer comes with one roof vent and maybe I should think about ordering another as they are only about $50.00, factory installed.

BC,

Were it me ordering a new CT I would spend the money on having the factory professionally install the windows. From my experience (only looking into self installed windows) the factory cost is minimal considering my cost to buy the windows, my labor to install them, and the chance of me messing the install up. Your skills may be a lot better than mine, in fact I am sure they are, but pay once for quality and don't look back. To me somethings are better left to the pros, given the chance, I haven't been given the chance because I bought a used CT so for now I choose not to install windows. We haven't missed them, so far.

Don

I would surely like to have.... even the first roof vent installed. But my skills are not good enough for me to want to cut the roof. um.. no.
I am going to have to try to install that window.. cause I do like fresh air that much. My brain tells me there's a huge difference in cutting the roof and cutting a wall.

I would say it was worth it to have the windows installed. Made my build move along just that much faster.

Another cargo forum member had them frame out the window sizes so that he would intall his own windows later. That could be another option too.
Barb