Insulation.

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Insulation.

Postby southpennrailroad » Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:47 pm

I measured my wall cavity between the alum skin and the wood wall. (1.1/8") I checked the thicknesses of different insulation and reflux material. It wood seem that the 1/8 reflux would be against the skin and then the Blue 1" Tuff insulation would fill in the difference.

Question would this be the best way of filling in this wall cavity?????
:thinking:
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Re: Insulation.

Postby d30gaijin » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:40 pm

southpennrailroad wrote:I measured my wall cavity between the alum skin and the wood wall. (1.1/8") I checked the thicknesses of different insulation and reflux material. It wood seem that the 1/8 reflux would be against the skin and then the Blue 1" Tuff insulation would fill in the difference.

Question would this be the best way of filling in this wall cavity?????
:thinking:


Southpenn,

Please explain what "reflux material" is. I have never heard of such a material, of course that doesn't mean anything since there are lots of things I haven't heard of.

Don
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:03 pm

I think what he may be talking about is astrofoil or a variation, am I right? Its main value is reflecting IR so you would want it on the inside for winter.
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Postby mskobier » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:34 pm

Russ,
Good to see you are ready to start the insulation of your CT. Winter is just around the corner! I would cut the foam and install it first, then use the redux (?) between the foam and plywood. If the redux is what I think it is, it is the bubble plastic with the foil skin??? Placing it between the plywood and foam insulation would allow it to act as a radiant barrier, reflecting some of the heat back into the living space.

I used the white foam for my insulation. I left the 1/8 in void between the foam and the plywood to allow the plywood to "breathe". If I were to do it again, I would install a radiant barrier between the plywood and the foam.

The Blue foam is about 1 R value better than the white foam. It is also about another 1/3 more expensive. Something you may want to consider.

Either way, you will be much warmer this winter than last.

take care
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Re: Insulation.

Postby southpennrailroad » Tue Sep 20, 2011 3:54 am

d30gaijin wrote:
southpennrailroad wrote:I measured my wall cavity between the alum skin and the wood wall. (1.1/8") I checked the thicknesses of different insulation and reflux material. It wood seem that the 1/8 reflux would be against the skin and then the Blue 1" Tuff insulation would fill in the difference.

Question would this be the best way of filling in this wall cavity?????
:thinking:


Southpenn,

Please explain what "reflux material" is. I have never heard of such a material, of course that doesn't mean anything since there are lots of things I haven't heard of.

Don


Read!

Yep/Sorry! I made a mistake as I wanted to say redux, the shiny silver stuff with plastic air bubble between it that costs $26.00 and does three cavities between the studs. I suspect that would be the correct way to install it as it would stop any water from reaching the alum by it keeping the air between the trailer skin and the inside warmer.

Thanks for the help everyone. I will do as Mitch said. I needed that info.

I was going to put it next to the skin but Mitch's idea sounds right as that air bubble will keep a thermo break between the heat/wood and Styrofoam filler. :lol:
Last edited by southpennrailroad on Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Astrofoil Details

Postby Engineer Guy » Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:23 am

I used 'Astrofoil' throughout our new House, just under the Drywall, as the Vapor Barrier and as an Infrared [IR] 'bounce' or reflector. The Company also sells special Tape to seal seams, since Tape like Duct Tape has adhesive that will not hold up over time.

The proper deployment is to install Astrofoil [or identical 'Reflectix'] immediately under the interior surface. In a CT, this would be just under the Luan; Plywood; Vinyl, etc.. Moisture/Humidity precipitates out when warm interior Air meets colder external surfaces [the metal CT Skin]. Astrofoil blocking that warm Air, by being placed on the interior side of Foam Insulation [or any other Insulation] is a good thing. It also helps some Insulations work 'better' by keeping moisture out of them by keeping the warm interior Air/cold exterior Air 'interface' out of the Insulation. On that side of the Insulation, the temperature differential is not so great, so condensation creation is not so pronounced.

Astrofoil is thought to provide up to an R-7-equivalent Insulation value by the Infrared 'bounce' effect, and by the single Air bubble insulating characteristic. There is also thicker Astrofoil that has 2 independent Air bubble layers [instead of 1], and thus a higher overall Insulation rating.

There's another Astrofoil Product without Air bubbles that has moisture ventilation holes in it. As specified, I used it on top of our Roof Trusses, just under the Roof Sheathing. It 'bounces' Heat out of the Attic, keeping it ~30 degrees cooler in the Summer, and thus lightening the Cooling load on the occupied Interior space. Another intended use is to lay it in an Attic over existing Insulation where it provides additional R Value as a retrofit application.

A scrap of either material works very well under a Trailer Bottom Sheet as an electricity-free Heater that uses only Body Heat. I've used it Boondocking by hanging a scrap vertically and sitting up against it on cold, sunny mornings. It creates a nice micro-environment of warmth.

There's all sorts of 'Voodoo' beliefs posted on Forums regarding humidity and Insulation. Some 'Pundit's' have even proclaimed Insulation is something to be avoided as a 'shoot yourself in the Foot' way to avoid humidity-related issues. In any small volume with humidity, like a House Bathroom, the answer is uniform: ventilate the volume. This is also true in a Trailer, with Cooking or Showering humidity [or simply humid Weather].

The bottom line is that an insulated Trailer space is more comfortable and needs less external energy - Propane or Electricity - to keep it comfortable, and to extend the Camping/use Season. Concerns over Carbon Monoxide buildup or Propane leaks are best addressed with well-maintained Detectors, just as in a House.

Astrofoil Website
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Postby southpennrailroad » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:10 pm

Engineer Guy, Thanks

I will do it the way you said. I think your correct.
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Re: Insulation.

Postby Larry C » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:37 pm

Southpenn,

Please explain what "reflux material" is. I have never heard of such a material, of course that doesn't mean anything since there are lots of things I haven't heard of.

Don[/quote]

All I can think of is UPCHUCK :lol: :lol: :lol:
"If its worth doing it's worth doing Light"

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=35852
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Postby southpennrailroad » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:18 am

Up here in Somerset ready to tear the trailer apart. Bought the Blue TUFF insulation but will only do the sleeping area right now. Going to use a pink insulation squeezed against the studs and the wood. The front will be on a little at a time plan. Will show photos. First u[p will be the EASY UP to store the bed and other things. Have to remove the furnace and cabinets and well most things need removed. Open field/wet weather. Suppose to clear up. Raining on the way up the pike. :)
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Postby southpennrailroad » Fri Sep 23, 2011 4:38 pm

Trailer is insulated now. (Except for the front wall.) Had to sleep on the hard floor and was cold but realized I had found my electric heater and ran that until the gen died of no gas. Now the bed is back in and furnace is hooked back up and stuff was tossed that I had no need for. Found two ant nests as well. Still have stuff out in the yard but will do that tomorrow and clean up like I was never here.

Also made the wall on the pass side open for a future long view Top to Bottom view window. The corners at the front of the trailer are open but this will be gotten to later. Also the ceiling needs done. Made all panels tight. Also found some open gaps at that point. Need to foam that area.

WOW! didn't know I had so much junk in this trailer. The drive home the truck should run smoother.
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Postby S. Heisley » Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:47 pm

Congratulations, SoPennRR. :applause: Hope you get the ceiling done soon, too. Winter will start hinting and teasing in about a month.

I look forward to seeing the pictures. :thumbsup:
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Postby Verna » Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:26 pm

Russ, I'm so glad you have insulation!!! Last winter could not have been any fun at all!!!

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Postby southpennrailroad » Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:30 pm

Verna wrote:Russ, I'm so glad you have insulation!!! Last winter could not have been any fun at all!!!

Verna


Actually last year wasn't so bad but this year will be better. for sure. Thanks!
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Postby pete42 » Fri Sep 23, 2011 8:46 pm

Russ the long window may let in cold so an insulating cover may be in order if and when you do that install.

glad you got most of the trailer insulated can you get the front insulated as you get some money saved up with out tearing trailer apart?

next month isn't to far away I know I have to wait until I get some money coming in before I can do somethings I want to do.

sounds like a couple more sheets of insulation will finish your trailer.

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Postby mskobier » Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:21 pm

Russ,
Excellent on getting the insulation in the walls. If it were me, I would concentrate on getting the ceiling insualted as soon as possible. That is where the most heat gets sucked out of the trailer. That aluminum roof makes an excellent heat sink. If nothing else, if resources allow, at least get some insulation pressed in between the roof ribs over the area where you sleep. Every little bit counts. Especially on the ceiling. The front has a plywood wall, that will isolate the living spacew from the cold a little bit. Even a cople of bread bags stuffed with old rags stuffed in the space at the top of the front wall to block the air flow will help some.

If your CT has the rounded top corners, you will find that the 1" foam will be difficult to "mold" to the curved area. I used two layers of 1/2" sheets in the corners of mine. Made installation relatively easy.

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