Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a brand new Haulmark Transport Vnose 6x12 single axle but after adding all the options that I want/need the price is getting too high..what do you guys think I could do without????And what would you say is a good factory buy??Some stuff is gonna def have to go because I cant afford it, I just cant figure out what should be crossed off the list..Uses of cargo trailer in order of importance Camping, Storage, Motorcycle transport. Tow vehicle- 2007 Nissan Xterra

Haulmark Transport Vnose 6x12 Base price 2544

Options(that I want/need)

electric brakes 221
torsion axle 106
spare tire 90
2- 15x30 inch slider windows 404 (ouch)
36x24 baggage door with lock (for window ac) 115
6 floor mounted d rings 145
6 Wall rings 50
porch light 12 (I think Ill keep this one)
12 volt powered vent 88
cable hatch 12
3/8'' sidewalls 87
12 volt fuse panel 32
insulate ceiling(ceiling liner required) 101
ceiling liner 131
insulate floor 132
insulate sidewall 188

Well, my 2 cents worth:

electric brakes 221
Check.

torsion axle 106
Nix. Good if you have tandems and have a flat, just take the wheel off! You are getting a single axle. Whats the point?

spare tire 90
Check. When you need it nothing else will do.

2- 15x30 inch slider windows 404 (ouch)
I'd go with one, if finances are that tight.

36x24 baggage door with lock (for window ac) 115
Not sure what's this. Sounds awfully big for an A/C unless it's doubling as a meat locker!

6 floor mounted d rings 145
6 Wall rings 50
Nix. They will be weak and will not be located where you want them. Put in your own E-track, one cross strip just inside the rear door(s) and a cross strip at the rear end of the man door, you can then put the hold downs where you want them.
Wall rings will be weak (I wouldn't trust my bike to those 2 screw flimsy things, would you?) and they will be in the way for things you want to put in later, like a bunk, a table, cabinets, whatever...

porch light 12 (I think Ill keep this one)
check

12 volt powered vent 88
nix. It'll need a power supply and will be noisy and not move much air. Get your own good one like a FanTastic later if you want.

cable hatch 12
Check, cheap enough.

3/8'' sidewalls 87
Nix. Heavy, and if you need more strength somewhere later just fishplate the wall with another piece of wood where you need it. 1/4 is lots for what's needed.

12 volt fuse panel 32
Nix. If you make your own electrical system in the future you can do better

insulate ceiling(ceiling liner required) 101
Check, easy for them to do it during const.

ceiling liner 131
Does it get cold where you are? If so this'll be good money

insulate floor 132
Nix. Not much heat loss that way anyway

insulate sidewall 188
Check, if you are camping in it and it gets cold where you are.

I agree with the above except I'd go ahead and nix the 36x24 baggage door.
do the electrical yourself and you'll know how to fix it later too.

I would have the big ceiling and wall penetrations (fan, windows and baggage) done by the factory for warranty purposes, but the other stuff you could do yourself or later. But, its also the end of the camping season, could you wait another 3 months to order it so you have time to save for all the options? Assuming 2 months for the factory to build once ordered, you could still get it in March and have 2 months to work on it before camping season kicks off in earnest.

For the insulation, I would skip the walls and ceiling so it is easier to run wiring. For the vent fan, only accept a fantastic fan, pay extra if you must for it to be custom. Skip the tie downs and e-track so you can put them in exactly where you want.

Thanks for the replies..this forum is awesome.
- well I live in ny so we get both temperature extremes- hot and humid or bitter cold so good insulation is vital..How much cheaper do you think I would be able to handle an insulation job compared to the factory? is that a fair price? good call on the floor insulation..probably overkill.

- the 36x24 baggage door with lock is a fancy name for a cargo or access door that I had plans on sliding a cheap hd 5000 btu air conditioning unit in and out..guess i could just build a false wall on one side of the barn doors and mount the ac in there.

-The floor mounted d rings are supposed to be real heavy duty mounted with plates with a 5000 lb capacity..granted the biggest load I will probably haul is my cruiser at 700 lbs..I guess that might be a little overkill as well hmmm..how easy do the e tracks attach?? are they expensive?? can they secure a heavy load?/?

- the 12 volt powered vent is just a regular vent prewired to a switch on the wall just in case I ever wanted to add a fantastic fan I wouldnt have to take apart the ceiling to run wires..especially if I get the roof insulation and liner..they do have an option for a fantastic fan but it sounds pricey-419 american..and a maxxair vent is 55

-Good call on the 3/8 plywood...I like the add a piece of wood behind the luan as needed idea..didnt even think of that

-I wanted to do my own electric originally but I figured if I get the thing insulated it might be a pain taking the walls and ceiling apart to run wire..

As for the a/c, just go to box store and get the smallest one, then built the opening to fit. My Fedders unit fit in a hole just under 19 by 13 inches and only cost $84 in 2004. It has the ability to make you uncomfortably cold in a volume 5 by 4 by 7 feet.

My personal philosophy is get it right, for what you will want in the future
Compass Rose is Mega-Mini 7 and we first owned number MM#1 its a long story but #7 has all of the things addressed that we felt were problematic in #1. However a number of things were planned for that I have added since i.e. AC and heat, solar and there are some items still on the to do list i.e. shower and gas points.
My personal feeling is that you need to plan for where you will be in the future and not settle for that which will frustrate you or cause you to have to replace it later. Were it me and I were doing a CT I would take it with the bare bones window cut outs and do insulation electrical etc my self.

digitek718 wrote:Thanks for the replies..this forum is awesome.
- well I live in ny so we get both temperature extremes- hot and humid or bitter cold so good insulation is vital..How much cheaper do you think I would be able to handle an insulation job compared to the factory? is that a fair price? good call on the floor insulation..probably overkill.

I suggest not having the factory do the insulation, but you can remove the paneling and add the insulation once you get the trailer. Running wiring really sucks if there is insulation already in place.

- the 36x24 baggage door with lock is a fancy name for a cargo or access door that I had plans on sliding a cheap hd 5000 btu air conditioning unit in and out..guess i could just build a false wall on one side of the barn doors and mount the ac in there.

Are there size options other than 36x24? I would go as small as possible, but you always risk having something come up that makes it unable to fit.

- the 12 volt powered vent is just a regular vent prewired to a switch on the wall just in case I ever wanted to add a fantastic fan I wouldnt have to take apart the ceiling to run wires..especially if I get the roof insulation and liner..they do have an option for a fantastic fan but it sounds pricey-419 american..and a maxxair vent is 55

I would confirm if the cut-out and the wiring spec is the same size between the two, and if replacing the maxxair with the fantastic yourself would void the warranty or not.

-I wanted to do my own electric originally but I figured if I get the thing insulated it might be a pain taking the walls and ceiling apart to run wire..

The factory would never get the outlets exactly where you need them anyway (it'd suck to end up with an outlet halfway concealed behind a cabinet, etc), thus I'd say to do it all yourself even though it is more work. Running sheet insulation in walls is pretty easy and wiring is very simple to understand if you find a good how-to book.

Do you have a floor plan sketch of what you'd like it to look like when you're done? I'm still months away from buying a trailer but I've been leaning towards a 6x12' v-nose. My plans are a bit different than yours (I dont have a bike or ATV), a rear galley occupying the entire 6' width, queen bed on the floor with a double hammock above, hopefully able to store the hammock and flip the queen up for a small table in case of horrible weather, and with enough space for a slide-out toilet on the road wall opposite the entry door (some kind of privacy curtain would obviously be important ).

I got a quote from 3 different dealers. The one I liked best had double the price of windows. I told him that I'd like to purchase the trailer from him if could would match the others window pricing. He did and I am very happy with my trailer.

The average 15" x 30" slider installed, in Elkhart, was $95. My guy was asking $180 per window. He matched the $95 and I was very happy overall with the deal.

It would have cost me more to pay a welder to frame out the windows here in Cleveland. Overall it was money well spent and offers great cross ventialtion in my trailer.
Barb

Yea the window prices sound a little outrageous..Im gonna try to talk them down a bit...
Today I started having second thoughts about maybe moving up to a 6x14 instead of a 6x12..The 6ft wide gives you 5' 6'' inside which means the beds will have to be lengthwise which will eat up a lot of space..My plan is to have a simple and removable floorplan that can be changed in different situations..When its just me and my girlfriend(most of the time) the queen bed will be between the barn doors and the side door and the potty with privacy curtain and chuckbox kitchen will be in the v nose and there will be plenty of room.However,I would also like to be able to sleep 4 people occasionally..with one bed on one end of the camper and the other on the other side with a little space in the middle..I am also not sure if the 6ft height will do or if I need 6' 6''....I am only 5'9'' but I dont want it to feel like a coffin either..On the other hand I want to get the best fuel mileage that I possibly can ..This is not easy.

As I see it, the only thing that you couldn't change at a later date would be the torsion axle. And with a design that is not final, who knows what you will want/need and where it will be placed.

One item I would strongly suggest at the time of build would be a RV entry/screen door. They are not cheap, but it seems that the forum consensus is that it is well worth the extra money.

500 bucks for wall/ceiling insulation and covering seems steep to me. I think you could DIY for about a third of that. Ditto with any interior wiring or whatever. Get the shell, park it in the drive, grab a cold one, open the doors, and IMAGINE! Tabula Rasa. Clean Slate.