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The Plan...

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:16 am
by cargobob
After resisting my normal urge to jump in feet first and start cutting and hacking away I restrained myself and made a plan. With cabinet drawings (crude but effective) in hand I started thinking about wiring. As I have a “donorâ€

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:34 am
by GPW
Bob , Simpler is always better!!!! Less things to go wrong down the road . ... Good you’re planning ahead ... :thumbsup:

Tongue box

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:41 pm
by denmohr
Cargo Bob...where did you pick up the tongue box, I like that!

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:02 pm
by 8ball_99
I dont see much need for 110 lighting along with 12v lighting.. Your betting off just using 12v for everything you can.. That way most everything works in the trailer regardless if its plugged in to shore power or not..

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:28 pm
by cargobob
denmohr
The tounge box was from Harbor Freight...

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:58 am
by Wolfscout
8ball_99 wrote:I dont see much need for 110 lighting along with 12v lighting.. Your betting off just using 12v for everything you can.. That way most everything works in the trailer regardless if its plugged in to shore power or not..


I found that, after a few camping trips, I needed 110 lighting. What I did was add a dimmer switched light at my night seating spot for the laptop use/gp. I also placed a 110 power outlet outside to run exterior lights when needed. I didn't think the 12v I had up for those purposes put out enough to suit me. Perhaps it was a question of the 12v lights I used. But now I'm contented with both.

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:29 am
by pete42
8ball_99 wrote:I don't see much need for 110 lighting along with 12v lighting.. Your betting off just using 12v for everything you can.. That way most everything works in the trailer regardless if its plugged in to shore power or not..


Even if I were to only camp off the grid and never planned to camp in a campground with 120 volts available, I would still add receptacles and lights.
There may come that one time when you would, and having 120 volts sure makes it nice, You do not have to "rought-it" to be camping.
There are a whole lot more 120 volt "things" easier to find than 12 volt.
referigators, televisions, lights, fans, airconditioners, hotplates, even radios, computer power supplies, cell phone chargers, cpap machines, oxygen generators, mobility scooters and on and on and on........
besides he said he was not going far from campgrounds so make it easy on yourself go with the 120 volt hook up.

having been an electrician for 41 years may cloud my judgement just a little.

pete

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:48 pm
by jwhite
I have some really nice brass 12volt lights with dimmers but I have found that I only turn them on at night when I go into my trailer,I light a couple candles and turn the 12 volt lights off.
The candles give off plenty of light for me and they are cheap and smell good,if I have my tv on it also gives off alot of light.
It would bug me to see my 12volt lights burning and draining my battery when it's not needed,if I need to read something I can turn them on normally if I am reading it's off my Ipad tablet.
I took the overhead 12volt light that came with the trailer and moved it into the enclosed area in the front area that is always dark so can I flip it on to see.

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:46 pm
by S. Heisley
I think ones decision depends on the type of camping planned. Out here, in California and Oregon, there are a lot of really nice campgrounds that don't have electrical hook-ups. If you wire a little of each, AC and DC, you're okay regardless of where you camp. If you use LED lighting or convert to it, the battery power will last for a long time. ...Just my two cents worth.

Lighting

PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:01 pm
by cargobob
Thanks for all the input folks, I am going to put in both systems...if we stop where there is no power then we have light. With the 120v I can have TV and cold drinks. 8)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:33 am
by RonRock
Is that a Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel chock? I just bought one just like it, but have yet to install in my CT. How do you like it? Is it solid enough to trust with your bike? I asked for suggestions on the Harley forum and got lots of recommendations most were $200 plus, a little steep for my budget for what they do. The HF unit was less than $40 after their discount.

I'll have to go back and get a tongue box. Yours looks good.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:58 pm
by msnglinc
RonRock wrote:Is that a Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel chock? I just bought one just like it, but have yet to install in my CT. How do you like it? Is it solid enough to trust with your bike? I asked for suggestions on the Harley forum and got lots of recommendations most were $200 plus, a little steep for my budget for what they do. The HF unit was less than $40 after their discount.

I'll have to go back and get a tongue box. Yours looks good.
Ron, I have two of the HF wheel chocks and use them to hold a sportbike and a 600 lb Honda Magna. They have worked just fine for me on an open trailer. I am a firm believer in using plenty of straps though. I typically use 4 per bike no matter how I haul them. Course I strap everything down like this. Everyone thinks I am crazy but I have never lost anything I was carrying. :thumbsup:

Wheel Chocks

PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:53 am
by cargobob
Yes…. the wheel chock is also from HF, I compared them to the ones at my local bike shop….they were identical except for the $200 price. I also purchased nice straps and tie downs from US Cargo Control. No skimping on them :D