Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My trailer arrived at the dealer last week. The tech inspected the trailer and found that the window in the side door is the wrong size. The original size (as on the order sheet) was to be 12"x22" however the installed window is much wider which may cause issues with the door integrity.

To their credit, the dealer was professional and upfront and let me know about this issue. The good news is they determined that it would be better to have the door replaced outright and have ordered a new door with the proper sized window. The bad news is that the door will take about 3 weeks to get here. That said, I will refrain from any thoughts or discussion on any "compensation" etc here as this is matter strictly between me and the dealer, and this forum is not the proper venue/outlet for these discussions.

I was presented with the option to take the trailer now so I could work on it and bring it back when the new door arrives but I don't want the hassle and the 60 mile round trip to be made multiple times so the trailer will remain there until the door is replaced.

In the meantime, I took some preview photos today while I was at the dealer and so far, I am pleased with the trailer (aside from the door.)


The large 30"x22" window in the curbside body of the trailer lets in a lot more light then I thought it would and really brightens up the interior even with the side door closed.

Looken good!
Just got to melt that snow...............

I'd add some extra steel in the door and keep the big window!

8ball_99 wrote:I'd add some extra steel in the door and keep the big window!

The problem with that door isn't the window.. it could be reinforced. It was that it's a cargo door and not a RV style door.

Wolfscout wrote:

8ball_99 wrote:I'd add some extra steel in the door and keep the big window!

The problem with that door isn't the window.. it could be reinforced. It was that it's a cargo door and not a RV style door.

wolf take a second look I think it is both rv and cargo door, but I have old bad eyes first picture looks to me to have a rv handle and a folding latch.

I like the big window wonder what the problem is?

pete

It's still the kind of door where if someone wished, they could lock the occupant(s) inside and he/they will be helpless to escape.
You comfortable going in there for a nap?

Not me.

Glenlivet wrote:It's still the kind of door where if someone wished, they could lock the occupant(s) inside and he/they will be helpless to escape.
You comfortable going in there for a nap?
Not me.

The reason I went with a bar lock assembly is two fold:

1) The RV type latches in general are easy for thieves to compromise and get access to the contents of the trailer. There is a retired RCMP officer that lives close by and when I was talking to him some months ago, he is the person who told me that the RV style latches, whether on a CT or Travel/5th wheel trailer are the easiest entry points for thieves.

2) With a window in the side door of my CT, again it would be easy for thieves to break the window then simply reach through and open the latch from the inside. Having the bar lock assembly negates that ease of entry.

There are various methods of securing the bar lock assembly to keep someone from locking you in. The most common, which I will be doing entails putting an eyebolt beside the door and through the body of the trailer into a wall stud and having the bar lock handle locked open to this bolt. One of the members here has a photo in their album which demonstrates this method.

Also the side window is an egress window, meaning that is designed to removed from the inside in case of an emergency. The 5th photo above shows the latches that allow the window to be removed.

I am I thinking of locking my latches open as well on my rear ramp door when I am inside and installing one top mounted spring loaded latch inside. This way if something goes real wrong up front by the man door or the latch jams, I can pull on a chain to release the latch dropping the rear ramp door.
BC is that an RV latch I see as well behind the bar locks...this is not usally the case but a great Idea...best of both worlds.

BC Cargo wrote:I am I thinking of locking my latches open as well on my rear ramp door when I am inside and installing one top mounted spring loaded latch inside. This way if something goes real wrong up front by the man door or the latch jams, I can pull on a chain to release the latch dropping the rear ramp door.

Great idea on locking the rear door latches open. I am a former Firefighter and know the dangers of how fast a trailer can go up in flames. Both RV and CT type trailers typically have a combination of household/camping goods/gear, kiln dried or naturally dried wood, numerous types of manufactured wood, glue etc that will all burn extremely fast. If the flames don't get to you, the toxic fumes may...This is the reason I went with an egress window...even in a small trailer, you need 2 ways out in an emergency and I also will looking at having some type of quick evac system through one or both of the rear doors.

BC Cargo wrote:BC is that an RV latch I see as well behind the bar locks...this is not usally the case but a great Idea...best of both worlds.

Yes, there is also an RV latch on the door. Sorry if I was not clear on that in my earlier post when I explained the reason for the bar lock assembly that I had included on the trailer.

I would be interested in knowing if the bolts holding your lock bars onto the trailer have nuts on them or if they are just threaded into the metal like mine were...going to have to wait a few weeks for the answer to that I guess. http://tnttt.com/album_ ... c_id=85358

Well my trailer door has been replaced so I will go and pickup the trailer later this week after work. It's been a long time coming and I cannot wait to finally have it home.

I also took a change of course (again) in my plans for the trailer. One of the issues I was facing was to keep the weight down to a low level due to the towing capacity constraints of my Jeep Cherokee. With a 2000 lb max tow capacity, and with the trailer empty dry weight at 1300 lbs, this left me with little room in terms of design and wanted features.

I have fixed the weight problem by upgrading to a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab 4x4 with only 40,000 miles on it.. This truck was on sale at the local dealer and I could not pass it up as it has 3.92 gears, limited slip rear differential, heavy duty tow package, class 4 hitch, 7 pin wiring tow/haul mode transmission, trailer mirrors plus a boatload of of other options. In short, it has all I need in a TV now and into the future.

With the towing capacity problem solved, I can now add more features to the trailer such as permanent on-board water (10 gallons), dual batteries, heavier duty flooring, one more large cabinet etc. Yes it will cost a bit more and as long as "BC Cargo" stops sending me links to those enticing Princess Auto Sales , I will end up only spending about $600.00 more overall on the trailer design but will have a much more versatile setup.

Stay tuned, build thread coming soon!

Now I can let you know about all the “truck load” sales as well...
I still like the idea of using multiple portable 5 gallon water containers for drinking. I like to keep 2 with "home drinking water" for as long as we can and 2 that I refill often (with mystery water) at camp sites for washing up and boiling food in etc. The drinking water uses a hand pump by the sink with a tube into a container and the wash/boil water is gravity feed via the fast flow spout. The separate containers are also easy to winterize and flush with bleach after using mystery water.
Looking forward in seeing the progress pics of your new cargo.

Nice looking trailer you purchased; that now after owning a 6X10 Loadrunner, I can appreciate; V nose will help save a bit in the aerodynamics; but also depending on how it was constructed you may also get some extra bonus space; mines 10-6" on the longest interior dim.

RV opener is a good idea with the bar lock; I just have the bar lock and put the pad lock on the door when inside someone can close the door from the outside using the bar and we can easily open the bar lock (i do keep it well greased and oiled);I added a barrel slide lock (what do you call em's) on the inside but it all becomes problematic if you dont arrive and leave together ... easy to lock ones spouse out in the cold ...

nice big checker plate stone shield ...

nice extra marker lights; good; so you and others can see the dimensions of the CT as its moving ...

now for the interor work to begin! lol

Have fun; happy trails BC Dave

Thanks BC Dave.

I am going to drive out to the dealer and pick up the trailer in about 10 hours from now...finally!!

Some Food for thought re: Trailer Security...

1. My Pro Electrician Pal has had the identical Bar Assy on his CT cut open twice at Job Sites, and ~$15k of Equipment 'liberated'. So far as he could reconstruct [from marks], the Thief's Tool Of Choice was an +18 VDC Portable Grinder w/a Grinding Wheel. I used a similar Grinding Wheel to cut through our 'HardiPlank' Cement Board Siding for a Range Hood Vent. A $5- Carbide-edged Wheel from Ace Hardware made quick work of the Cement Board, with plenty o'sparks a flyin'...

2. I went to a Locksmith to get a Lock picked off my TTT Spare Tire mount. I had not been given the Key when I bought it used. He told us a few stories of Clients where their RVs in Storage in 'nice' areas well north of Denver had Sidewalls cut open with a 'Sawzall' to liberate A/V, and other, Equipment inside. Fiberglass/Styrofoam/Wood Panel Walls are the proverbial cakewalk. In a 'ya can't win' Scenario, he also mentioned how a Thief would cut a box around the RV Door Lock and pull away the entire Latch Assy to then 'open' the Door.

My conclusion: we can all do whatever makes sense for each of us, or makes 'sense' when trying to deter Thieves who don't have any. When they want it, they'll get it.

That said, a very nice Build you've got going on there...