Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

im looking at a 6x12 to convert im looking at 2 diffrent brand continental cargo trailers and haulmark has any one had any experiance with either one of these and which one os good or bad thanks guys

I too am looking at ordering a new trailer. I will most likely go with a 5x10. I have looked at the Continental Cargo and thought it looked pretty good, but would also be interested in hearing what someone with experience has to say.

Thanks, Scott

I do not know if Wells Cargo makes that size; however, I have a Wells Cargo Auto Wagon that I am converting. After removing the original Lunan Paneling I found only real light surface rust on the metal studs. This was not bad for a 2005 year trailer.

Jeff

My new one is a Haulmark it seems to be build strong my last one was Interstate not build as well but after I installed 1/4 plywood on walls gave it lot of strucksure. Good luck making up your mine. The main thing is take in consideration what your going to put in it. Oh think about what type of door will be best for your needs such as a ramp for loading bikes atv's big door loading boxes of pallets double doors for making galley use.

I like R-N-R out of Michigan all aluminum nice they will work with you.
their structure is strong once I made up my mind my health started failing
so at this time it is only a dream I do enjoy reading about other's builds

pete

Scroll down for the answer. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=25377&start=60

Hi rnjsharp,
I have a 6X12 Haulmark Transport Cargo trailer, and couldn't be happier.
I live in it, with tent, fulltime and travel the southwest part of the country. I am just adding more insulation to it now here in Las Vegas.
The "bubble wrap" was just not enough for the cold nights in the desert during the winter. Have not had any problems with it and is built very well.
You can check out the photo album for more pics .....

Here is a recent shot


Great to hear your jumping into the Cargo Trailer for camping. !!

Trainman,

I looked at your album. Very nice. A couple of questions;

Do you have any issues with the darker exterior color in the heat of the summer?

And what are the boxes that are attached to the latch on each door?

Thanks

First rate job there Trainman! Very nice trailer. Good choice! (No plastic/fiberglass front cap.)

Were you able to insulate the solid OSB side door in any way?

Hi bigbendhiker,
Those are my "Badguy" security for my locks and latches. You can see some close up pics Here. The Snatch Latch are what are on the doors and Steal Shield is what is on the hitch. There are videos for both on their websites. The dark green color has not gone through the summer yet. We left Jan. 2nd 2012 from Denver and headed south. I picked up my new trailer last October 2011. The insulation should help in the heat too. Seems that most on here favor a lighter color for the heat reason. I have family that are in law enforcement, and they mentioned that if you have a trailer that can be identified easily, like Dark Green, or special Decals on it, rather than the millions of White trailers out there, thieves are likely to stay away from taking it, or if they did, police would have a better chance of spotting it for you.

@ Prem,
I did not insulate the side door, just filled in around it. I run a propane Mr Heater in the winter inside, with the windows cracked open, only when awake, and I have been told it is a good idea to have some air sneak in from outside and not completely seal your trailer up. Something to do with staying alive ..... lol. Thanks for stopping by Prem, good to hear from "The Master".

Air leaks are vital, or open windows or vents. Must have a constant inflow of oxygen and outflow of carbon dioxide to stay alive. Cross flow is best with one vent high and one low at opposite ends of the trailer.

I saw/heard of one guy who took the interior skin off his factory side door and did drop cuts with a circular saw in multiple 6" x 6" squares to get rid of some of the heavy OSB because the door's latch was being destroyed from the road vibration. His was in two layers of OSB. He set the cutting depth to the just barely touch the second layer so that the first layer could be pried out. He put the skin back on and had reduced the weight by 30%, he said. I think, for weight reduction, I would have replaced the whole layer with a glued-on foam sheet (same thickness as the sheet of OSB) and then put the skin back on.

I met a fellow this winter who is living in a 1950s canned ham with no insulation and no interior skin! All you see is pine 1x2s stapled together and the shiny exterior skin. I don't think it's even roadworthy without the interior skin, since the exterior metal is not attached to any part of the wood structure except the perimeter. (Air leaks were not an issue for his trailer.) Ya gotta love cargo trailers for their highly superior components and construction! (Just add an extra vent or two.)

I'm slowly working on a CargoMate that has two bullet holes in it (entry and exit of a single bullet) that I got off a guy who had it parked in the woods for two winters. Good ventilation.

Prem wrote:Air leaks are vital, or open windows or vents. Must have a constant inflow of oxygen and outflow of carbon dioxide to stay alive. Cross flow is best with one vent high and one low at opposite ends of the trailer.

Thanks for the reminder. My CT is very airtight so I will be putting a small and permanent message on the inside wall next to the side door that will remind me to always keep a window and or the vent cracked open.