Portable vs. Window AC...the never ending debate

[DixieDevilDawg]

I've been debating over this for weeks now. Next week however I will have to bite the bullet and do one or the other. I have a portable 5000 btu ac and a 5000 btu window unit. I'm torn between the 2 and hope someone could give some insight or share their experience with it. If I go the window unit route I would like to mount it in the rear in the ramp door (I don't use that door anyway). My concerns with this are would it take bouncing down the road? I would use a brace underneath it. Has anyone had problems with leaks doing this? If I go the portable route I will have to either vent through the floor (not crazy about that idea) or vent it out the side (I've yet to find a vent cover that I like). Then I have to worry about floor space. If you have experience with either let me know! I've read every thread on here concerning it, but still can't make my mind up. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Partsman]

You can vent a portable out the floor with and ugly vent. That way you can not see the a/c from the outside.

Window units are cheaper to buy and replace.

[8ball_99]

Window units are cheaper to replace and they also work better for the same tonnage. Window unit would be harder to install though. I went with a roof AC. More expensive, but it will handle the road vibration NP and it takes zero floor space. I also did not have to cut any holes in the trailer to mount it. I went with a coleman cub which is a low profile 9k unit.. My only problem is now that I have went to a larger trailer I will probably replace mine with a larger AC It will keep the trailer cool but it takes a while to cool it down if you cut it on in the middle of a hot day.

[jwhite]

I bought a 12000 btu portable Ac thinking it was overkill and I was wrong = would only cool the trailer down after dark,in the middle of the day I would have to sit right in front of the AC to feel any cool air.
another draw back to the portable ac is it has to be out in the middle of the trailer to work and then it's in the way,total waste of money.
I now have a 8000 btu window unit I bought on sale from lowes for 160.00 and in 1 hour I have to turn it down because it's cold.
I put mine in a rear wall that I can open and close, photos in album.

[Martiangod]

Cool vents are available, check out marine supply for Bilge blower vents





The bilge vent I used was only $10

[Goatdog]

My 7000 btu portable A/C works really well in my 5x8 CT. It is vented thru the floor, and the exhaust hose is wrapped with reflectix insulation. My CT is well insulated and the roof has been painted white with elastometric (sic) paint. It is not in the middle of the floor, It is on the drivers side of the V-nose. It's a Haier with a digital thermostat that seems very accurate, according to the separate temp gauge I have. A bonus to me is that it runs on my Champion 2000 Inverter/Generator.

I didn't buy it for the CT, I'd previuosly used it in a truck camper shell that I camped in. It was worth trying in the CT and it paid off for me. I know others have different results...I'm just lucky I guess.

[b.bodemer]

I'm a fan of the window a/c. Worked really nice and I can store it in the garage during the off season.

http://cttraveltrailer.blogspot.com/201 ... alled.html

Barb

[ParTaxer]

I'm a fan of the window a/c. Worked really nice and I can store it in the garage during the off season.

http://cttraveltrailer.blogspot.com/201 ... alled.html

Barb

Exactly! I made a filler panel for my driver's side door of the TD and the window unit sits nicely without any bottom support. This way I can decide whether the weather dictates an A/C; otherwise leave it home.

[Socal Tom]

I went with the window unit inthe bulk head wall.
1) it was cheap
2) when I get to camp I open the hatch turn it on and I'm done, no set up required
3) if the weather is wet, i don't have to find a place to put it so I can go to bed
4) its removable if I don't need it
5) it works very well, on low I have cooled down to 67 on an 80 degree day( haven't had a hot day to really test it).
6) It works on a 1k honda generator
TOM

[NO David!]

I think this guy has it figured out...(at least for my purposes, it was inspirational) Can you say "Copy"?
His board name is WA.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=40504&p=741734#p741734

I'm going a step further, building a free standing insulated "closet" which attaches to my now infamous vertical e-track, making the A/C "closet" removable. I'm putting mine in the left rear door, allowing the right rear door to latch back sealing the A/C closet to the outside, and leaving the left rear door open to vent. (excepting rainy conditions of course) This gives us load/unload capability with the one door while the A/C is in and of course no A/C when the weather is nice.

Not the best picture, but the first row of E-track is about 20" from the rear. Just right for a window A/C to be mounted to a 2x4 frame which inserts into the E-track beam socket ends. The width of the closet will span the left door width, height=floor to door opening with a boxed in roof, depth of course from the rear door to the first e-track strip. I'll post a picture when it's done. (I just realized my description is probably useless).


David

[markp1988]

can you put a window unit in the front wall is there any problems with that?

[linuxmanxxx]

I'd go portable since now the condensation is vaporized out the exhaust tube making them much smaller in size. Only need a port to exhaust much easier instal and if cold cover port and leave it at home.

[k1hog]

I went with a portable air unit, did not want a window unit hanging around, and have not liked the look of the window units. I insulated my 7X14 very well, and so far there has been no issue, with the trailer staying very cool to very cold. My trailer is black and I live in Louisiana.

Insulation is the key!

Johnnie

[Wolfscout]

I have a 12,000 Portable that vents through the floor with a 3" flange. Works well and I can screw a cap in it when it's not in use.
I wrapped the one hose with insulation foil wrap due to it's heated air flow. This increased the efficiency. My 6x12 is cooled nicely on this last week long trip to the beach.

I think all methods work if you rationally work on the construction of on your method.

[Tdcamper64]

When using a portable unit with one pipe as the exhaust (some have an inlet pipe) you should vent the rear of the unit to the outside air. The portable units with only the exhaust pipe use inside air to cool the unit, reducing the efficiency considerably. This action exhaust conditioned air to the outside. I have done this in a 6x12 ct and the difference In cooling is considerable, allowing the use of a much smaller BTU unit ( and generater). The 2 pipe portables are more expensive but you can fake it with thoughtful venting of the one pipe version.